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My front springs are toast. During this last weekends training event I was rubbing quite a bit on the right side as has been noted in several previous owners threads as being the indicator that the springs are tired..

I spent time searching and reading several threads and it sounds as though there were three different stiffness options (presumably to handle the variance in weight from the different body styles), what is the general consensus on which version to get and are all three versions available? From the posts I've reviewed it sounds like EIs are the medium weight and that SAVs are stiffer? is that correct?

Next up is the spring tool, does anyone currently rent/loan one out? How does one go about getting their hands on one to do the swap?

Finally, what about the spacer option in addition to new springs, to help level out the ride height? I'm expecting that most of the time I'll have a pretty full load of Search & Rescue crew (most missions I'm carrying 5-6 searchers + myself through pretty rough terrain). The little bit of information I saw had pretty mixed feelings on adding a spacer. I'd love to just go with the stiffest spring I can get my hands on as I'm more concerned with capacity than ride comfort..

As always, thanks again for the help.
Ben

Pm sent

The springs are designated by 1, 2, and 3 dots. The only one available that I have found is 2 dot.
If you look at the spec's for all three there is really not a huge difference between them. The "dotting",
I believe, is more of a binning so that one does not get the weakest and strongest as a set given the
manufacturing variation back in the day of the 70's. The best way to "boost" over the standard would
be the Pins at that bottom, for that you wold need to select from the Turbo Diesel pins, which have
several lengths to pick from.

But, before you go that route, make sure your Toe-in is correct, if wrong, e.g. a "toe out" so to
speak, you can lose over 2" of clearance and corresponding wheel well spacing. See here:
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=9515&hilit=toe+in
Incidentally, the front right side will always rub first, it has less clearance than the left due to the
front differentials axle offset.

The other thing to think about is your tire size, if your running wide guys, that will also exacerbate
well rub. Frankly I'd be a bit surprised if your springs are the only issue here.

Wouldn't wide tires and additional offset also increase the "lever arm" length - reducing the springs effective rating? Seems like that would make sense.

I thought TD's had heavier front springs also?

Yes on a longer lever arm, wide tires and rims add to the problem in this regard.
For what it's worth, I have 285/75 on 8" wheels, and in my case getting Toe-in
right was by far the biggest factor in getting clearances to be acceptable. That
said, I still get an occasional rub but not sever, next set of tires I'll be going a
bit narrower for this reason as well as steering control.

I don't know about the TD spring constant vs the Gaser's? But I do know the
TD pins work but picking the proper length is the trick, too long and you could go
nose up -- they ain't cheap either.

Before doing anything, I'd weigh your truck loaded ( with gear and people), and at each tire. And at the same time have someone look under the vehicle to check to see if the axles are level, or if you have negative camber.
On the other side, you want to avoid too much positive camber when the truck is driven empty, and making it easier to possibly tucking an axle on a turn.

Attached are the factory springs/pin configurations used on the TDs

Interesting, the TD does have Spring selections/load requirement and appropriate pins.
Hmm, wonder what the rear spring spec's are for a 716 and if these puppies would fit in
a 710?

716s use 1 spring and an levelling air ride spring in the rear. Front/rear Springs are physically the same dimensions... unlike the 710s

The Pink Cow had heavy springs all around, by the time I removed all the gear the Sweds had installed on it, it had 18" under the diffs and the air compressor never came on but twice in 10 years.

Don't you regret, selling that Pink Cow -- was an awesome rig, Diesel in CA had to be the only one
Shame the plates went to the other CA -- Eh!

I replaced my stock springs with NOS and saw no difference, so be careful. Springs may not be the issue.

Speaking of which, if anyone is in the market for used, good springs, let me know.

be careful:

often not the springs itselves are the problem but the spring cups ... due to rust they break almost invisibly ... only after removal the problem can be seen ...

the Dieselsprings are a lot stiffer and lacking the progressiveness of the 710er ones and here in Europe only used for rally purposes ...

Greetings from Bavaria .... Simon

Are the 710K springs different than the 710M?

not that i know of

Thanks!

Once you source some springs and they do not get the lift you need with the additional cab weight/winch/radio gear and the fulcrum effect from the rack stuffing the springs, measure and build some spacers for under the chassis stub to cup pin.

see here:

viewtopic.php?f=15&t=8100&start=30