Front suspension bangs

Issues with shocks/springs, tires, stopping, etc.
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Ian
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Location: Tasmania

Re: Front suspension bangs

Post by Ian » Wed May 30, 2018 7:10 am

boeing7873 wrote:
Tue May 29, 2018 2:38 pm
I have the same issue. I bought the truck 10 years ago, and as soon as I hit the first pothole I said, time for new shocks. Ordered a full set from SAV, changed the front two and.... absolutely no change. The damn thing feels horrible. But everything looks perfect, new shocks, springs look good, no play anywhere, runs straight, no vibrations... It is just horrible when it hits a pothole. As if suspension didn't exist for a fraction of a second.
But my conclusion is that this is normal, the way the truck feels. I got used to it. Done.
I've renewed my shockers and it helped a lot, nowhere near as bad now. Certain the noise is the axles straps snapping tight. I have the aftermarket nylon ones that don't have the rubber bush at each end to (maybe) dampen the tension.

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pcolette
United States of America
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Location: Southwest Wisconsin

Re: Front suspension bangs

Post by pcolette » Wed May 30, 2018 8:34 am

boeing7873 wrote:
Tue May 29, 2018 2:38 pm
I have the same issue. I bought the truck 10 years ago, and as soon as I hit the first pothole I said, time for new shocks. Ordered a full set from SAV, changed the front two and.... absolutely no change. The damn thing feels horrible. But everything looks perfect, new shocks, springs look good, no play anywhere, runs straight, no vibrations... It is just horrible when it hits a pothole. As if suspension didn't exist for a fraction of a second.
But my conclusion is that this is normal, the way the truck feels. I got used to it. Done.
For whatever its worth, both of mine do the same thing even after the new shocks were first installed. Apparently it's just the nature of the beast.
Paul C.
_________
'73 Swiss 710M
'89 Puch 230GE
2002 MB G500 (For Sale)

stiffler4444
Canada
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Location: Crystal Beach ON CAN

Re: Front suspension bangs

Post by stiffler4444 » Wed Jun 20, 2018 5:43 am

rmel wrote:
Thu Feb 01, 2018 11:36 am
As Jim pointed out, I the treads are the weak link, esp. in the casting.

If your not all that keen on boring a hole through and through, the approach
I have taken is HeliCoil, this is a stronger joint than the original tread as it is
a larger diameter and the insert is hardened SS. If there is concern about the
strength of the bolt thread which are M16 fine 1.5mm 8.8 hardness, the same
bolts are readily available in 10,9 and 12.9.

Oh!! One other point, I do NOT Torque these bolts to the recommend 200NM, I
go to a max. of 136NM (100 ft-lb). This is more consistent with the grade of the
thread in the casting and sufficient for attachment, I've never had one loosen up.
I also use this same Torque for the Wheel Lug nuts.
Why in the world would they use an 8.8 bolt :roll: I just broke off my front driver's side bolt and have been fighting with the easy out for a couple hours. Not budging. I ordered new bolts from SAV, but didn't think they would be 8.8. Wish I would have gotten some 10.9 or 12.9 as you mentioned. I just presumed the OEM parts would be at least 10.9. Damn. Won't matter much if I don't get the dreaded threaded piece out I guess..... :(( :((
1972 710m

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rmel
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Re: Front suspension bangs

Post by rmel » Wed Jun 20, 2018 10:11 am

I was thinking about what I would do if I had a stubborn broken bolt.

I like Albert's (Hotsenplotz) procedure, mill a pilot hole in a bolt then
use that as a drill guide. In the case of a broken bolt -- drill from the back
side so that you drill through the front of the broken bolt rather than the
broken side. Use a very large easyout, and also get some decent lub in
there on both sides. Drilling a smaller diameter hole than the thread you
won't harm the tread of the back side if you don't want to go with the
longer bolt. If she just won't go, as a last resort, hopefully the pilot hole
is true and you could just drill progressively until that bad boy is out.

Could be your cross threaded, might take some heat and paraffin as a lub.
I've got one bolt on the limit strap that won't budge -- some knucklehead
probably used impact tools on that one, ain't going to touch that unless I
have to.
Puller: 710K 2.7L EFI
Follower: Sankey MK 3, 3/4 Tonne
Driver: Ron // KO0Q

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David Dunn
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Location: Arcadia, CA

Re: Front suspension bangs

Post by David Dunn » Wed Jun 20, 2018 1:18 pm

The best method is to progressive drill with left twist drill bits. Depending on how tight the stud is, the left twist drill bit grabs the stud as it cuts and the stud will unscrew if it isn't totally seized, and many times as you progress to a larger size bit, the heat from the drilling will break the stud loose retaining the threads intact.

This is a common method for removal of broken studs with mechanics. It is just the additional expense of the left twist bits and locating them ( not too difficult )

I have removed studs this way that ended up little more than a corkscrew , but still had usable threads.
.
The Trojan Horse... the 1st Pinz used to covertly carry troops into battle .




ATL Pinzgauer XM 718K TUM(HD) 6x6 FFR (aka The Green Grail)

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rmel
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Re: Front suspension bangs

Post by rmel » Wed Jun 20, 2018 1:32 pm

That's a good suggestion, e.g. "Lefties". Found this kit which I think I will spring for, easyout's and left hand drills.
https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-HANSON-Scr ... drill+bits

Though, drilling right hand from the back side will unscrew that broken bit as well :wink:
Puller: 710K 2.7L EFI
Follower: Sankey MK 3, 3/4 Tonne
Driver: Ron // KO0Q

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David Dunn
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Location: Arcadia, CA

Re: Front suspension bangs

Post by David Dunn » Wed Jun 20, 2018 2:18 pm

I'm not fond of the extractors. Drilling with the left bits relieve pressure on the sidewall of the stud as the bit are pulling to the inside.
Extractors work by putting force to the exterior, possibly forcing the material tighter .

I do have different types of extractors, but use them accordingly. Sometimes they don't work due to the stud not have the length or hole depth to grab.

Besides the corkscrew extractors, there are "square" tapered extractors that are tapped into the hole to bite the stud
.
The Trojan Horse... the 1st Pinz used to covertly carry troops into battle .




ATL Pinzgauer XM 718K TUM(HD) 6x6 FFR (aka The Green Grail)

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4x4Pinz
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Re: Front suspension bangs

Post by 4x4Pinz » Wed Jun 20, 2018 7:32 pm

When I have had to remove those pesky broken shock bolts I found simply holding a large nut in place and welding the nut to the remaining bolt. Not a procedure for those who do not have a steady hand. Have removed several of the remaining pieces this way. The heat from welding aids with loosening the stuck portion so they usually come out with little effort.

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