Andy
Left side wheel losses are a tendency on heavier vehicles, that's why there's a blanket policy--- left hand threaded stud/nut on all commercial trucks and buses on the left side. This thinkling has trickled down to light commercials such as Dodge vans etc in some cases.
I think on the Pinzgauer the combination of steering and road shocks tends to make wheels that are not torqued adeqautely to work loose. In the case of those 17" alloys on your truck, I had a discussion with CWR a while ago about adequate "thread bite" on the stud due to the increased thickness of the wheel plate versus the original. For certain regular attention needs to be given to the wheels and a certain nut type.
Dennis
wheel adapter drawing
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lindenengineering
- Posts: 715
- Joined: Sat Apr 17, 2004 6:14 pm
- Location: Golden Colorado USA
- Contact:
Yeah mine was also on the front-drives, however front right...
I have to say that when I bought it in 2007, I drove around 300 miles no problem (properly tightened by the seller CAMO).
But then I took all wheels off to check the drum-brakes for crud etc and probably never tightened them properly after that.
I actually thought that it had been tampered with... sabotage... but I probably turned out to be my own worst enemy, strange how a Pinz affects your life eh ???
Jules
PS Glad to see Dennis is back on the block ! Great story about the rocket-wheel...
I have to say that when I bought it in 2007, I drove around 300 miles no problem (properly tightened by the seller CAMO).
But then I took all wheels off to check the drum-brakes for crud etc and probably never tightened them properly after that.
I actually thought that it had been tampered with... sabotage... but I probably turned out to be my own worst enemy, strange how a Pinz affects your life eh ???
Jules
PS Glad to see Dennis is back on the block ! Great story about the rocket-wheel...
Pinz of rock - 710M / 1975 (Austrian Army)
I've not had a problem with the 712. The failure was on the 710 with the black steel wheels CWR was selling. An aside, is CWR still viable? I couldn't get to his website either.
They both get loaded to the max at times though. Fourty 50 lb bags for the 710 and sixty for the 712. Plus, the ranch roads leave a little something to be desired much of the time.
They both get loaded to the max at times though. Fourty 50 lb bags for the 710 and sixty for the 712. Plus, the ranch roads leave a little something to be desired much of the time.
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GenevaPinz
- Posts: 520
- Joined: Fri Feb 22, 2008 12:00 pm
- Location: near Perth, Scotland
Hi all,
I am reading through this post with great interest because I am a few days from switching my stock wheels and Maloya tires for Ford Transit rims (http://real4x4forums.com/PinzgauerBBS/v ... rd+transit) and tubeless radial tires.
The stock Ford lug nuts for these new rims are flange nuts, so I managed to find flange nuts that fit the uncommon M14x1.5 Pinz studs. They were sold to me by a company in Germany specializing in heavy truck and bus spare parts, so my first impression was that they would do the trick.
However, after I read your horror stories, I prefer to ask before I drive at 60mph with my new wheel and tire setup...
Would you suggest that I ditch the flange nuts I got and get another set with a nylon insert (and maybe just thick washers to replicate the flange)? Or should proper torque and regular checking be sufficient?
On the same subject, as none of you mention loctite as a potential cure, I assume this is a mechanical heresy...
Thanks in advance,
Jan
I am reading through this post with great interest because I am a few days from switching my stock wheels and Maloya tires for Ford Transit rims (http://real4x4forums.com/PinzgauerBBS/v ... rd+transit) and tubeless radial tires.
The stock Ford lug nuts for these new rims are flange nuts, so I managed to find flange nuts that fit the uncommon M14x1.5 Pinz studs. They were sold to me by a company in Germany specializing in heavy truck and bus spare parts, so my first impression was that they would do the trick.
However, after I read your horror stories, I prefer to ask before I drive at 60mph with my new wheel and tire setup...
Would you suggest that I ditch the flange nuts I got and get another set with a nylon insert (and maybe just thick washers to replicate the flange)? Or should proper torque and regular checking be sufficient?
On the same subject, as none of you mention loctite as a potential cure, I assume this is a mechanical heresy...
Thanks in advance,
Jan
Jan
'72 Pinzgauer 710M
'72 Pinzgauer 710M
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lindenengineering
- Posts: 715
- Joined: Sat Apr 17, 2004 6:14 pm
- Location: Golden Colorado USA
- Contact:
Andy
It's paint, I say it's paint!
Not trying to be funny, but its just that!
The rims were new and powder coated to a depth of 0.010" or so!
You come along and bolt it down, the wheel nut cones are sitting on a layer of paint!
You then put the truck into service and wheel flex rubs off the paint layer and the wheel comes loose! Simple as that!
A while back the Soc of Road Transport Engineers UK, did a lengthy study on lost wheels and the result (amongst other things) was NOT to paint the wheels at the locating cones.
Dennis
It's paint, I say it's paint!
Not trying to be funny, but its just that!
The rims were new and powder coated to a depth of 0.010" or so!
You come along and bolt it down, the wheel nut cones are sitting on a layer of paint!
You then put the truck into service and wheel flex rubs off the paint layer and the wheel comes loose! Simple as that!
A while back the Soc of Road Transport Engineers UK, did a lengthy study on lost wheels and the result (amongst other things) was NOT to paint the wheels at the locating cones.
Dennis
OOOps no customer bashing now