clutch slave cylinder

Issues with shocks/springs, tires, steering box, stopping, etc.
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krick3tt
Posts: 2457
Joined: Thu Mar 16, 2006 6:48 pm
Location: Denver, CO USA

clutch slave cylinder

Post by krick3tt »

Any tricks to removing and replacing this item? Knowing that it is over the starter and I really don't want to drip fluid over the starter when I take it out.
Should I remove it then remove the hydraulic line or the other way around?
I have ordered the repair manual but it isn't here yet.

Morris
Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him:
better take a closer look at the American Indian.---Henry Ford
Jim LaGuardia
United States of America
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Post by Jim LaGuardia »

First, this belongs in Driveline section. Second, there is no need to de-tatch line. It will not leak until piston is removed(use a drip tray or small can) and recon in sitchu as line is plenty long. remove piston lock ring with a small pick or tiny screw driver, set assembly in can or tray and gently push down pedal till piston pops out.
Now clean out the bore and rinse with brake cleaner, install piston seal(lube it with breke fluid) and re-assemble. You can even bleed it over the drip tray before re mounting to minimize mess :wink:
Cheers, Jim LaGuardia
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v510/Goatwerks/
"Arch Magus of Machines."
krick3tt
Posts: 2457
Joined: Thu Mar 16, 2006 6:48 pm
Location: Denver, CO USA

clutch slave cylinder

Post by krick3tt »

Thanks Jim,
Went in fine, works like it should.
Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him:
better take a closer look at the American Indian.---Henry Ford
SolarImages
Posts: 23
Joined: Sat Nov 06, 2010 3:28 pm
Location: Bisbee AZ

Slave Cylinder

Post by SolarImages »

Thanks for the information here very handy. I would think replacing the seal on the piston would be in order, or would you suggest just inspection for wear and reuse after cleaning cylinder, should i hone the cylinder?
"Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved
body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting, holy
#$%^...what a ride!
undysworld
Norway
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Location: Blue Mounds, WI

Post by undysworld »

NO! DO NOT HONE IT!

Scott I. told me that you only clean it out. There's a lining which can get pitted, and that means it's junk.
Erik712m
Posts: 1553
Joined: Sun Jan 21, 2007 7:52 pm
Location: Wichita, Kansas

Post by Erik712m »

Can be drilled and a stainless insert sleeve is installed.
krick3tt
Posts: 2457
Joined: Thu Mar 16, 2006 6:48 pm
Location: Denver, CO USA

clutch slave cylinder

Post by krick3tt »

...and what is the cost for that?

A new one is $185
Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him:
better take a closer look at the American Indian.---Henry Ford
SolarImages
Posts: 23
Joined: Sat Nov 06, 2010 3:28 pm
Location: Bisbee AZ

So..

Post by SolarImages »

So i started off with the old quick fix which worked on alot of older foreign rigs in the past as a temp fix flushed the unit using the bleeder screw ran about a full two cans of fluid through it till the fluid was nice and clear. Ran my 710 all day over rough ground and no seepage at all. going to open it up anyway to look for any wear and tear (pitting) so i can decide weather to have it sleeved or buy a backup
"Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved
body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting, holy
#$%^...what a ride!
Erik712m
Posts: 1553
Joined: Sun Jan 21, 2007 7:52 pm
Location: Wichita, Kansas

Post by Erik712m »

Morris, the cost was $65. Was not for the pinz. But sure would cost close local brake shop completed it original was chrome lined
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