adjusting the hand brake

[krick3tt]

I have inquired in the search section and nothing comes up on this.
My hand brake does not keep the vehicle on slight inclines (my driveway).
The book says 90 to 100 mm to show in the handle in the cab, I have that at 90. I think this is a guideline, yes?
Also the book says 90 to 100 for the lever in the back (underside) I have 80 ish.
Still I am not sure where to further adjust. Will the self locking nut be the place to adjust? I have not attempted this place yet.
I have adjusted nothing, just taken measurements.

[edzz]

Sounds like it’s time to disassemble and inspect the parking brake assembly, may just need cleaning and maintenance. Deglazing the brake disk and scuffing the steal disks with Scotch-Brite or lightly sanding them may solve the problem. Having less than the specified take-up play on the handle may lead to the brake disks dragging, not a good thing.

Remember to protect yourself from possible asbestos exposure.

http://real4x4forums.com/PinzgauerBBS/v ... king+break

[krick3tt]

Thanks. I'll be looking into this very soon. If I leave it in 1st gear when parked
and use the hand brake there is no drifting.

[krick3tt]

Disassembly not required. Simple adjustment of the nut at the rear of the cable.
Works great now. Simple is good.

[Squiggas]

I had the same problem and ended up replacing my disks which were badly glazed. I got an improved grip but still not great. Before the change, with the hand brake firmly on, I could make the pinz move in high second gear with the engine at idle. Afterwards I had to use low range to do the same.

Krick3tt, is the nut you adjusted the one which would have the same affect as lengthening or shortening the cable? I'm interested to know which way you adjusted it and how much difference it made.

[krick3tt]

Yes.
Same nut.
One is welded to the clevis bracket and one to the forward of the vehicle can be loosened.
Just did about 3 turns of the forward nut and followed the clevis into position and put the pin back in the clevis.
Make sure to keep the twist in the cable to allow your brake handle in the cab to return to proper position.

Adjustment shortened the throw of the cab lever about 3/4 inch and the brake really grabs. No rolling
on my driveway now.

Interesting... how we park on a driveway an drive on a parkway...never have gotten that one.

[Squiggas]

I made the adjustment but found that it stopped the light on the dashboard from working. Even with the handbrake fully off the light remained on, so I put it back to how it was. I didn't try to see if the grip improved. I figured that I couldn't drive with the light always on.

Krick3tt, maybe it worked for you because your cable was slack with the handbrake off. Mine is quite taut, and the light on the dashboard doesn't go off until the handle is fully in.

[krick3tt]

When I adjusted it the light stayed on as well. I just let the brake handle sort
of snap into position and it goes off. Perhaps just don't adjust it so much. Maybe
instead of three turns, only do two and see how that affects the light, and the brake.
The mechanism for the light being off is very simple, sort of a push type switch
not too difficult to make it do what you want. As long as your brakes don't 'ride'
you might be more pleased with the outcome.

edit: I was just out looking under the back and noticed that the switch has an oblong
hole on each side for adjustment. I did not notice this before and it might solve your issue
by loosening the screws and moving it about to get the light to go off when the handle is
in release position.
Something new every day!

[cronapress]

To pick up on the handbrake switch itself... mine died a few weeks ago. In it's death throes, it would sometimes stick with contacts "made", at other times with contacts "open". After buying a new switch I did an autopsy on the old sealed unit. Moisture had got in via the rubber grommet and down the button. The internal return spring is steel and that was it's Achilles heel ! Many rusty spring types bits within !!

As krik3tt says, the mounting holes are oblong, so it's simple to get the right setting. Bear in mind, one of the two securing bolts provide the earth return, so keep everything clean and bright. Plenty of Waxoyl or similar gunge on everything afterwards.

[krick3tt]

Story continues...it seems that the hand brake is really not holding, even after adjustment in the cable.
Guess I am going to have to tear into it and expose the insides. Will have to do this before my trip to
Oregon.

[StuartL]

My handbrake doesn't seem to hold unless I press the brake pedal. Once the brake is released all is well...

I've never really thought about it much, to be honest, just seems to work for me. If I thought about it more I might be a little scared by this symptom

[edzz]

My handbrake doesn't seem to hold unless I press the brake pedal. Once the brake is released all is well...

I've never really thought about it much, to be honest, just seems to work for me. If I thought about it more I might be a little scared by this symptom

As you know the main braking system and the parking brake system are separate / unrelated systems. I agree with your feeling of fear.

[krick3tt]

I was looking through the manual and the parts books last night. Parts book shows a break down of all the internals,
manual tells how a mechanic, familiar with the pinzgauer would do it. Since I am not an ace mechanic...are there any
videos out there that can instruct me on disassembly? Any terrible secret spring like thing that will jump out at me and
what to take off first for access.
As you can see I am not familiar with this particular issue and any help will be greatly appreciated.

Morris

[undysworld]

Morris,
IIRC, you need to loosen the body and lift it slightly to get the rear cone assy off. When I did mine, the single bolt right at the rear end was the worst. Then just unbolt things and it slips off the rear of the rear locker. Since it works somewhat, I think you can assume the mechanical portions are working okay, so you might be looking at worn-out brake discs perhaps??
I've never been into one besides my own, and that was just to investigate chattering noise it sometimes makes off-road. From what I could tell, the discs were just loose on the shaft and rattled. It works fine however.
Paul

[Squiggas]

When I first tried to remove my hand brake assembly I couldn't undo the bolt that holds the tail cone to the body. Soaking it in WD40 for a week did the trick. I also had to buy a 24mm spanner to hold the nut still. I tried using an adjustable wrench but it was too fiddly and risked rounding the nut.
I was pleased to find that when I removed the tail cone bolt and loosened the two rearmost cross member bolts I got enough clearance to remove the tail cone without having to lift the body.

There are some good pics and info here:
http://www.precisionclays.com/uploads/p ... repair.pdf