Front Shock bolts

Issues with shocks/springs, tires, steering box, stopping, etc.
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berger
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Front Shock bolts

Post by berger »

I apologize for the stupid question guys, but I took a quick look at the front shock bolts (upper), and I was just wondering if there are any tips on getting to them? What to remove etc?

Thanks guys!


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Ottawa, Canada
1974 710M
2007 2WD Ural Patrol
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mm58
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Re: Front Shock bolts

Post by mm58 »

Not 100% sure, but I believe the right one can be accessed from the top by removing the doghouse. Don't know if that also works for the left.
Mike

'76 710K
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berger
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Re: Front Shock bolts

Post by berger »

Ya, doghouse is out, but the DS seems really tough to get too.


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1974 710M
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pcolette
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Re: Front Shock bolts

Post by pcolette »

I've done this a few times and it's never been easy but here goes:

-Optional but a good idea: jack up the front end, put on jack stands and remove the front wheels
-Remove the doghouse

-Passenger side - remove the coil and mounting bracket and move aside any wires that are in the way.
-The nut and bolt for the top of the shock are now fairly easy to get to. A good box end wrench and socket with ratchet are all you need. The nut is a self-locking or NyLoc nut.
-Check over the bolts for wear and corrosion. They're usually okay but if not McMaster carries some of them and EI or SAV the others.
-When re-installing it's sometimes a bit difficult to get the top eye of the shock thru the opening in the body, especially with the steel sleeve in the bushing. Keep trying, it does finally go in. Now extend the shock and insert the bottom bolt to hold the shock in place. Using a large screwdriver or small pry bar you can now work on installing the top bolt before tightening the bottom one.

-Driver side - this is the tough one. The nut and bolt are the same as the p/s but are hidden under the lip of the engine compartment. Remove the lower tin below the fan for better access.
-A long micro ratchet with socket and a combo wrench should do the trick
-If you're a contortionist it helps :) but you have to hang your head partly into the engine area to see what you're doing
-No trick to this that I've found, just patience.
IMG_0185.jpg
IMG_0185.jpg (50.65 KiB) Viewed 6112 times
This is the driver's side but with the Doetsch rebuildable shock shown (since replaced).

Good luck!
Paul C.
_________
'73 Swiss 710M
'89 Puch 230GE
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berger
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Re: Front Shock bolts

Post by berger »

Thanks!! That helps a lot!!



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stiffler4444
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Re: Front Shock bolts

Post by stiffler4444 »

Or you could remove the entire front end of your Pinz like I have......that makes it really easy to get at.... :lol:
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berger
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Re: Front Shock bolts

Post by berger »

stiffler4444 wrote:Or you could remove the entire front end of your Pinz like I have......that makes it really easy to get at.... :lol:

Don't jinx me!! :lol:
Ottawa, Canada
1974 710M
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stiffler4444
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Re: Front Shock bolts

Post by stiffler4444 »

:lol: No worries. My issues seem to be a fairly rare problem. However, it really does bring you closer to your Pinz once you've removed half of the drive train!
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berger
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Re: Front Shock bolts

Post by berger »

Well, my rears are done!! No issues at all.





Quick question, do I lightly grease the shanks of the bottom bolts?
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1974 710M
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krick3tt
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Re: Front Shock bolts

Post by krick3tt »

It might be helpful for assembly.
Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him:
better take a closer look at the American Indian.---Henry Ford
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berger
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Re: Front Shock bolts

Post by berger »

krick3tt wrote:It might be helpful for assembly.
Thanks!

Another quick question for those who have replaced their shocks. The guys in my 4x4 club recommend I remove the boots, as they can catch and hold dirt. I will zip-tie the ends, but is this a normal thing to do when offroading? Does not having the boot cause any premature wear on the piston etc?
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1974 710M
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pcolette
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Re: Front Shock bolts

Post by pcolette »

On my first set of Doetsch shocks, the rebuildable type, I left off the boots and after a year the pistons had corrosion and pitting. On the follow-up set which have been on for a few years I did install the boots with zip-ties. After a year or so I cut the zip-tie and checked inside the boot. There was a little bit of crud but the piston was clean and smooth :)

I'd install the boots and then just clean them out every so often based on your trail riding experiences.
Paul C.
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'73 Swiss 710M
'89 Puch 230GE
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berger
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Re: Front Shock bolts

Post by berger »

pcolette wrote:On my first set of Doetsch shocks, the rebuildable type, I left off the boots and after a year the pistons had corrosion and pitting. On the follow-up set which have been on for a few years I did install the boots with zip-ties. After a year or so I cut the zip-tie and checked inside the boot. There was a little bit of crud but the piston was clean and smooth :)

I'd install the boots and then just clean them out every so often based on your trail riding experiences.

Thanks Paul, I prefer that too.
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1974 710M
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krick3tt
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Re: Front Shock bolts

Post by krick3tt »

Derek,

I would also second Paul's recommendation. Zip tie them and inspect after a bit (6 mo) I don't think the manfg would have included random bits if they were not for a valid reason.
I don't ride mud much but sand has a way of getting into interesting places. Remember the last time you were at the beach?
Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him:
better take a closer look at the American Indian.---Henry Ford
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berger
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Re: Front Shock bolts

Post by berger »

I am soo torn!! :lol:

4x4 guys HATE them, especially in muddy water....On pirate4x4 and elsewhere, guys say the companies include the boots because it means you will be replacing the shocks much earlier than without.... :mrgreen:
Ottawa, Canada
1974 710M
2007 2WD Ural Patrol
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