Brake Lights stay on

Issues with shocks/springs, tires, stopping, etc.
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Buzz
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Brake Lights stay on

Post by Buzz » Sun Sep 15, 2013 4:40 pm

I have noticed my brake lights are staying on after I back out of the garage and have stepped on the brake pedal a couple times. They do not come on after it has sat for awhile and its first started. Only after I use the brakes a couple pulses.
The master cylinder is less than a year old. But I reused the brake sensor, which I had replaced probably five or six years ago?
Ideas? Replace the sensor? Maybe the master is holding pressure it should not? The truck drives fine.
Thanks, Buzz
"It's as stupid and wonderful as owning a pet elephant."

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pcolette
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Re: Brake Lights stay on

Post by pcolette » Sun Sep 15, 2013 4:58 pm

I would try the brake light switch. I recall that Jim L. mentioned somewhere on the forum that one of the VW switches works and is less expensive than the Steyr part.
Paul C.
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Buzz
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Re: Brake Lights stay on

Post by Buzz » Sun Sep 15, 2013 8:03 pm

Thanks Paul,
I checked my maintenance log and found I replaced that switch in 2005! I'll poke around and see if I can find Jim's post. - Buzz
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Buzz
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Re: Brake Lights stay on

Post by Buzz » Sun Sep 15, 2013 8:22 pm

Found the thread under "tapered brake light switch". It was Scott's post.
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pcolette
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Re: Brake Lights stay on

Post by pcolette » Sun Sep 15, 2013 8:23 pm

Buzz,
I checked my notes and found it is the same as an 81 VW Rabbit but there are 2 types and only 1 works. I remember 1 having tapered threads and the other is straight. Not sure which is correct. I'll keep looking...
Paul C.
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'89 Puch 230GE
2002 MB G500 (For Sale)

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pcolette
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Re: Brake Lights stay on

Post by pcolette » Sun Sep 15, 2013 8:25 pm

Ah, that's why I didn't find it.
Paul C.
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'89 Puch 230GE
2002 MB G500 (For Sale)

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krick3tt
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Re: Brake Lights stay on

Post by krick3tt » Sun Sep 15, 2013 8:30 pm

Tapered threads as I recall. The taper is barely discernible, but it should be there. Don't try to save money on this and get the wrong one, it is not worth it.
It's only $22 from SAV.
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better take a closer look at the American Indian.---Henry Ford

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Buzz
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Re: Brake Lights stay on

Post by Buzz » Sun Sep 15, 2013 9:05 pm

"It's as stupid and wonderful as owning a pet elephant."

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edzz
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Re: Brake Lights stay on

Post by edzz » Sun Sep 15, 2013 10:11 pm

from other thread
ExpeditionImports wrote:What an absolute joke. The PROPER non-tapered switch is readily available. The idea that it is acceptable to use a pipe thread switch in a Metric straight thread application is garbage. The idea that it is being portrayed as acceptable "with a little teflon tape..." to make the seal is just as bad.

http://www.expedition-imports.com/produ ... nimog.html

These will be available from most foreign auto houses as it is a very common metric brake switch. Are you guys really willing to bastardize your trucks over $5-10 on the brake system?

Cheers,

Scott

Thank You Scott
Ed
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Buzz
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Re: Brake Lights stay on

Post by Buzz » Fri Sep 27, 2013 6:56 pm

Got a new switch from Scott today. That solved the problem.
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GadgetPhreak
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Re: Brake Lights stay on

Post by GadgetPhreak » Sat Mar 04, 2017 11:48 am

My brake light switch just failed so I'm grabbing one of the compatible parts from Scott's list (thanks Scott).

Two questions:

1. Will I lose pressure and have to re-bleed the brakes when I change out the switch? I suspect so but thought I'd check..

2. Both terminal connectors on the brake light switch connections are "slightly burnt/discolored" what would cause that? I'll swap both out when I replace the switch but curious if there's a known root cause? II did some searching but couldn't find a similar case here on the board.

Thanks,
Ben



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Haf-e
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Re: Brake Lights stay on

Post by Haf-e » Sat Mar 04, 2017 12:23 pm

I suppose a bad switch could heat up and cook the connections - but it would not be likely if you are running LED tail lights. I suppose if you have some larger regular bulb brake lights it would be more possible. The bulbs on the stock tail lights are pretty small.

The master will probably not require a rebleeding of the brakes if you swap it out quickly.
Haf-e

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GadgetPhreak
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Re: Brake Lights stay on

Post by GadgetPhreak » Sat Mar 04, 2017 12:42 pm

Haf-e wrote:I suppose a bad switch could heat up and cook the connections - but it would not be likely if you are running LED tail lights. I suppose if you have some larger regular bulb brake lights it would be more possible. The bulbs on the stock tail lights are pretty small.

The master will probably not require a rebleeding of the brakes if you swap it out quickly.
Thanks.

Previous owner put the TD tail lights on it, not sure if they are larger bulbs than stock or not. I'll be swapping over to LED shortly (order already placed, just waiting on parts to arrive).


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krick3tt
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Re: Brake Lights stay on

Post by krick3tt » Sat Mar 04, 2017 2:22 pm

When you switch to LED bulbs keep in mind they have a lower current draw and things may not work as you plan. May have to change the flasher unit. I avoided that issue by just adding the LED lights to the existing circuit and left the existing tail lights in place. I drilled out the place for the reflectors and put the LED light unto in their place.
I did this because the stock lights were not bright enough to be visible for other vehicles approaching my 50 MPH pinz at 80 while they were on the phone or texting.
Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him:
better take a closer look at the American Indian.---Henry Ford

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Re: Brake Lights stay on

Post by Jimm391730 » Sat Mar 04, 2017 3:16 pm

Both terminal connectors on the brake light switch connections are "slightly burnt/discolored" what would cause that?
Heat, obviously! But seriously, poor connections always cause heat when current flows through them. The poor connections could be due to corrosion in the crimp to the wire (the most common reason), poor grip to the blades on the switch, and possibly even from poor switch connections creating heat and passing it up to the terminals (not nearly as likely as the first possibility). Poor connections ALWAYS get worse so you might as well cut those connectors off and install new ones. To do a good job that will last you must have "real" crimp tools with quality connectors. A good crimp will last longer than the truck ever will; do the best job you can.
Jim M.
712W and 710M

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