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 Shocks 
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Joined: Thu Sep 15, 2011 6:48 am
Posts: 160
Location: Covington, Louisiana
Post Shocks
I had a quick question about Doetche (sp?) shocks sold by EI. I ordered a pair and they were delivered as ordered. Every other pair of shocks I have ever installed on other vehicles had the shocks tied down in the compressed position and upon install you untied the binder and the piston was under force and would elongate on it's own. Sometimes it would require a jack to lift the bottom end of the shock into position so you could bolt it up. These shocks arrived in a box in the compressed state and they were not bound at all. In fact, to elongate the shock to line up the lower bolt holes I had to manually pull the shock out. I just want to confirm that with these shocks this is correct. I went ahead with the install and on a brief road test they appear to be an improvement. But, I wanted to confirm this was correct. If anyone has any experience in this are please drop me a note and let me know. I was of the impression that the shocks would actually apply some uplift to the body at all times as well as absorb impact caused by uneven ground. I didn't think they merely absorbed the impact.

Thanks for taking a minute,

John


Mon Mar 02, 2015 11:00 am
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Joined: Wed Feb 01, 2012 11:39 am
Posts: 2451
Location: Ontario, Canada
Post Re: Shocks
Dual action (up and down) dampening vs just one way
Hope that makes sense
Dan

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75 710M 2.7i
94 350GDT
96 350GDT Worker


Mon Mar 02, 2015 12:09 pm
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Joined: Sun Dec 10, 2006 7:38 pm
Posts: 1230
Location: Southwest Wisconsin
Post Re: Shocks
Yes, your shocks are fine. I've installed 4 sets of the Doetsch shocks and they all behaved the same. As Dan said, they dampen both on compression and extension. I still have 2 Pinz's with them installed and one set has been on for 6-7 years and still going strong.

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Paul C.
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'73 Swiss 710M
'72 Swiss 710M
'89 Puch 230GE


Mon Mar 02, 2015 4:05 pm
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Joined: Thu Sep 01, 2011 7:32 pm
Posts: 343
Location: Long Island, New York
Post Re: Shocks
All modern "shocks" damp motion in compression and rebound. The Doetsch shocks are not strapped because they are not nitrogen charged which is a method of limiting foaming.

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'76 710K


Mon Mar 02, 2015 4:13 pm
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Joined: Thu Sep 15, 2011 6:48 am
Posts: 160
Location: Covington, Louisiana
Post Re: Shocks
:lol: Thanks guys. I learned something new which is always a good thing. Like I said I noticed a positive difference after the install... they were just different than any others I've ever used. Thanks for the clarification.

John


Tue Mar 03, 2015 10:16 am
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Joined: Wed Jan 27, 2016 12:14 pm
Posts: 227
Location: Redmond, WA
Post Re: Shocks
I'm installing the Doetsch shocks from EI tomorrow and switching over to the new long bolts. For those that have done it, what size drill bit did you use? I'm out away from the shop and forgot to grab the bolt and bring it with me...

Also, I recall that on the shock ends they were spaced differently, one side had a spacer built in but there's nothing indicating which way that faces when installed. If someone has a link to the install instructions or knows which way those align I would appreciate the input. Otherwise I'll check the existing shocks to see if they have the same features and how they are currently installed.

Thanks,
Ben

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1972 710M - Building up for SAR use
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Sat Jan 07, 2017 11:57 am
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Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2011 4:25 pm
Posts: 694
Location: Mount Vernon WA USA
Post Re: Shocks
Pretty sure that the part of the bushing which sticks out is what goes between the mount and the shock - it spaces the body of the shock slightly outward to prevent rubbing (I think...).

Not sure what you are drilling out? Not familar with why it would require that...


Sat Jan 07, 2017 2:28 pm
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Joined: Fri Apr 16, 2004 7:08 am
Posts: 1696
Location: Blue Mounds, WI
Post Re: Shocks
If you are through-drilling the lower shock bolt hole on the axle, I believe it's a 5/8" drill. I forget what mm it is, but it's a near exact match, plus way cheaper to buy the bit. Be sure to get a good bit and use lots of oil. These things are made out of good steel.

The small spacers fit between the axle and shock, and IIRC there is a locating pin on some of them in addition to the bolt going through them.

Sorry, it's been YEARS since I did all that.

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Sat Jan 07, 2017 3:57 pm
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Joined: Wed Jan 27, 2016 12:14 pm
Posts: 227
Location: Redmond, WA
Post Re: Shocks
Haf-e wrote:
Not sure what you are drilling out? Not familar with why it would require that...


Thanks. They upgraded the lower rear shock mounts in later models with a hardened steel through bolt that runs all the way through and out where the limiting strap mounts and pulls the whole assembly together for added strength. It requires drilling through the cast housing for the new bolt.

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1972 710M - Building up for SAR use
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Sat Jan 07, 2017 6:30 pm
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Joined: Wed Jan 27, 2016 12:14 pm
Posts: 227
Location: Redmond, WA
Post Re: Shocks
Here's the link to some more info on the conversion. Scott at EI has apparently done it on a few vehicles with great results.

http://madscientisthut.com/sdp-pin/html/broken_shock_bolt.html


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Sat Jan 07, 2017 11:56 pm
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Joined: Wed Jan 27, 2016 12:14 pm
Posts: 227
Location: Redmond, WA
Post Re: Shocks
undysworld wrote:
If you are through-drilling the lower shock bolt hole on the axle, I believe it's a 5/8" drill. I forget what mm it is, but it's a near exact match, plus way cheaper to buy the bit. Be sure to get a good bit and use lots of oil. These things are made out of good steel.

The small spacers fit between the axle and shock, and IIRC there is a locating pin on some of them in addition to the bolt going through them.

Sorry, it's been YEARS since I did all that.


Thank you!


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King County Search & Rescue | WA Regional Special Vehicles Unit
1972 710M - Building up for SAR use
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Sat Jan 07, 2017 11:59 pm
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Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2012 9:07 am
Posts: 212
Location: Vienna, Austria
Post Re: Shocks
using a long bolt rather than a screw in has two advantages

there is no bending force on a thread, less likely to break ..
if the bolt breaks, you can always use a hammer to get it out

DO NOT drill anything non metric, it will create play !
The bolts are 16 mm , and I suggest you drill 3 steps, 8, 12 then 16 mm

i got two M16 x 1,5 x 80 bolts, and drilled them to 8 and 12mm using them as guide for the drill through

Image

that pic explains the idea

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Albert
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My Pinz has NEVER been with any army


Sun Jan 08, 2017 8:06 am
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Joined: Fri Apr 16, 2004 7:08 am
Posts: 1696
Location: Blue Mounds, WI
Post Re: Shocks
Hotzenplotz is correct as to the advantages.

I can't speak for the application on a 710, as I have a 712 and there are some differences. I broke two of the original threaded-in rear shock bolts on a trip many years ago. I used a 5/8" drill and 5/8"x12" bolts I got from Fastenal. I have had absolutely zero problems with these two bolts since installation. Instead of using the original bolts at $52.02 each http://www.pinzgauer.com/showdetails.ph ... 101542951/, I got them for $12.90 each https://www.fastenal.com/products/detai ... 0~|sattr01:^%22Imperial%20(Inch)%22$|~%20~|sattr04:^5/8%22-11$|~%20~|sattr05:^12%22$|~

5/89" = 15.875mm. My experience is that these will work just fine, at least on the rear of a 712.

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Sun Jan 08, 2017 8:29 am
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Joined: Wed Jan 27, 2016 12:14 pm
Posts: 227
Location: Redmond, WA
Post Re: Shocks
Thanks all!


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King County Search & Rescue | WA Regional Special Vehicles Unit
1972 710M - Building up for SAR use
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Sun Jan 08, 2017 10:44 am
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Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2011 4:25 pm
Posts: 694
Location: Mount Vernon WA USA
Post Re: Shocks
$52 bolt? Crazy... think I'll do this mod as well.


Sun Jan 08, 2017 11:51 am
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