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I had a quick question about Doetche (sp?) shocks sold by EI. I ordered a pair and they were delivered as ordered. Every other pair of shocks I have ever installed on other vehicles had the shocks tied down in the compressed position and upon install you untied the binder and the piston was under force and would elongate on it's own. Sometimes it would require a jack to lift the bottom end of the shock into position so you could bolt it up. These shocks arrived in a box in the compressed state and they were not bound at all. In fact, to elongate the shock to line up the lower bolt holes I had to manually pull the shock out. I just want to confirm that with these shocks this is correct. I went ahead with the install and on a brief road test they appear to be an improvement. But, I wanted to confirm this was correct. If anyone has any experience in this are please drop me a note and let me know. I was of the impression that the shocks would actually apply some uplift to the body at all times as well as absorb impact caused by uneven ground. I didn't think they merely absorbed the impact.

Thanks for taking a minute,

John

Dual action (up and down) dampening vs just one way
Hope that makes sense
Dan

Yes, your shocks are fine. I've installed 4 sets of the Doetsch shocks and they all behaved the same. As Dan said, they dampen both on compression and extension. I still have 2 Pinz's with them installed and one set has been on for 6-7 years and still going strong.

All modern "shocks" damp motion in compression and rebound. The Doetsch shocks are not strapped because they are not nitrogen charged which is a method of limiting foaming.

Thanks guys. I learned something new which is always a good thing. Like I said I noticed a positive difference after the install... they were just different than any others I've ever used. Thanks for the clarification.

John

I'm installing the Doetsch shocks from EI tomorrow and switching over to the new long bolts. For those that have done it, what size drill bit did you use? I'm out away from the shop and forgot to grab the bolt and bring it with me...

Also, I recall that on the shock ends they were spaced differently, one side had a spacer built in but there's nothing indicating which way that faces when installed. If someone has a link to the install instructions or knows which way those align I would appreciate the input. Otherwise I'll check the existing shocks to see if they have the same features and how they are currently installed.

Thanks,
Ben

Pretty sure that the part of the bushing which sticks out is what goes between the mount and the shock - it spaces the body of the shock slightly outward to prevent rubbing (I think...).

Not sure what you are drilling out? Not familar with why it would require that...

If you are through-drilling the lower shock bolt hole on the axle, I believe it's a 5/8" drill. I forget what mm it is, but it's a near exact match, plus way cheaper to buy the bit. Be sure to get a good bit and use lots of oil. These things are made out of good steel.

The small spacers fit between the axle and shock, and IIRC there is a locating pin on some of them in addition to the bolt going through them.

Sorry, it's been YEARS since I did all that.

Haf-e wrote:Not sure what you are drilling out? Not familar with why it would require that...

Thanks. They upgraded the lower rear shock mounts in later models with a hardened steel through bolt that runs all the way through and out where the limiting strap mounts and pulls the whole assembly together for added strength. It requires drilling through the cast housing for the new bolt.

Here's the link to some more info on the conversion. Scott at EI has apparently done it on a few vehicles with great results.

http://madscientisthut.com/sdp-pin/html ... _bolt.html


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undysworld wrote:If you are through-drilling the lower shock bolt hole on the axle, I believe it's a 5/8" drill. I forget what mm it is, but it's a near exact match, plus way cheaper to buy the bit. Be sure to get a good bit and use lots of oil. These things are made out of good steel.

The small spacers fit between the axle and shock, and IIRC there is a locating pin on some of them in addition to the bolt going through them.

Sorry, it's been YEARS since I did all that.

Thank you!


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using a long bolt rather than a screw in has two advantages

there is no bending force on a thread, less likely to break ..
if the bolt breaks, you can always use a hammer to get it out

DO NOT drill anything non metric, it will create play !
The bolts are 16 mm , and I suggest you drill 3 steps, 8, 12 then 16 mm

i got two M16 x 1,5 x 80 bolts, and drilled them to 8 and 12mm using them as guide for the drill through



that pic explains the idea

Hotzenplotz is correct as to the advantages.

I can't speak for the application on a 710, as I have a 712 and there are some differences. I broke two of the original threaded-in rear shock bolts on a trip many years ago. I used a 5/8" drill and 5/8"x12" bolts I got from Fastenal. I have had absolutely zero problems with these two bolts since installation. Instead of using the original bolts at $52.02 each http://www.pinzgauer.com/showdetails.ph ... 101542951/, I got them for $12.90 each https://www.fastenal.com/products/detai ... r05:^12%22$|~

5/89" = 15.875mm. My experience is that these will work just fine, at least on the rear of a 712.

Thanks all!


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$52 bolt? Crazy... think I'll do this mod as well.