GenevaPinz wrote:Metal "U" channel is pretty much indestructible and I really like the look of my truck with such rub rails. However I am about to change them and I am in the process of sourcing some "D" profile rubber bumper strip of suitable dimensions (used for truck loading berths, usually) to install instead.
The reason why I want to change them is the weight and the fact that no matter how much I paint them, (POR15 plus rattlecan-applied topcoat, plus LineX on the underside to protect from road grime), I end up with rusty marks around the screws (which are stainless). I guess that lighter profile with better quality steel would give better results.
Thanks for the link, very interesting.
By using rubber washers I believe I avoid (or at least try to avoid) having moisture between the nutsert and the bolt, but I don't avoid it between the mild steel u-channels and the bolts... the rubber replacement is an even better prospect, then.
When buying my stainless fasteners, I am limited to "A2" and "A4" grades, I need to check how it relates to the (numerous) grades, using a different nomenclature, that are mentionned in the BSSA articles.
Jack Russell Racing wrote:
Did you have them made in tongue/groove sections like the original, or one "long" rail? If you've got a source that wants to make some more, my 710M could certainly use some.
Tongue/groove?
Please explain
Thanks,
Sorry, I was out of town for a while and couldn't take this picture:
(I assume this is original to my 710M ?)
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Ricambi America. The Ferrari, Maserati, Lamborghini Parts Specialists
undysworld wrote:I've only seen one truck with rubber rub rails, and for whatever reason, they sag between the fastening bolts. It's pretty lame looking.
Perhaps they were made wrong, or of some particularly soft material. May be worth testing a bit though.
Thanks, good to know.
But with the "D" profile, I can always add a length of flat metal plate inside the rubber profile, to add rigidity if needed. It won't help my rust issues, though...
I don't think your rails are stock, have never seen any that were spliced. Don't know where I got this drawing however the dimensions compare well with my rails.
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Cum catapultae proscriptae erunt tum soli proscript catapultas habebunt.
I copied what I believed to be originals, and the holes differed from your drawings. It's actually a smaller diameter central hole, with larger diameter (probably what your drawing specifies) holes countersunk in from each side. Inboard, the countersunk hole allows clearance for the nutsert, and outboard, it sinks the fastener head to avoid rubbing damage.
Frankly, the drilling is the most difficult and time consuming part of making the rails, IMHO. IIRC, the central hole is too large to center all my countersink bits, so I had to bore the initial hole undersized, then perform the two separate countersink holes, then drill the center hole to size. If the spacing is off a hair, it's tough to line up, and the washers make "cheating" the holes more difficult.
Your drawing makes the end miters look to be approx. 45 degrees, but I think the measurements are accurate (making the angles more like 70 or something).
My rails were made out of Trex composite decking material by Thilo and are nice and slippery for the times you rub. They are waterproof and rot-proof, too.
George Cameron
Yarnell, AZ
1979 Pinz 710M
Molon Labe
As a wood worker, I'll be interested to see how the top edge of the wooden rail holds up over time.
If I read the cross section correctly, you have the rabbet cut for the metal bracket only about a 1/4 inch under the top angled cut of the wooden rail. Might be a weak point as it runs parallel with the grain, the metal angle may act as a stress riser underneath that area?
totaljoint wrote:As a wood worker, I'll be interested to see how the top edge of the wooden rail holds up over time.
If I read the cross section correctly, you have the rabbet cut for the metal bracket only about a 1/4 inch under the top angled cut of the wooden rail. Might be a weak point as it runs parallel with the grain, the metal angle may act as a stress riser underneath that area?
Yeah - that is a weak point - may have to tweak it a bit but the end goal is to try and combine the benefits of metal while trying to keep the stock look.
I had another design using C channel with the stock wood profile inside it but that just ended up looking like a quick way to rot the wood.
Will be a bit before I fab it all up but thought with the 1.5x1.5 angle iron it could act as a side jack/recovery area?
In reality my drawing is not 100% correct as the rails do not go down to the bottom of the truck sides as shown - once I get into it I am sure the rails will end up being on top of the angle without the rabbet.
Open to any ideas!
I think one of the 'weak' points of any situation concerning rub rails is the direct contact with the metal of the tub body. I found a bit of rust behind the rails when I removed them.
Putting galvanized washers between the rail I created and the body seems to have alleviated the direct contact and also seems to have lessened the possibility of water staying
in between the two surfaces. As my rails are now metal channel they do not appear to be weak or have any flex between the screw points.
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Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him:
better take a closer look at the American Indian.---Henry Ford
I ended up making mine out of some African hard wood. Red something. I had a hard time finding white oak in long enough pieces. I work in the marine industry and we use both rubber and wood rubrails as well as steel. There is often a corrosion problem behind rubber rubrails, particularly on aluminum. Wood is not much of a problem if you bed it in polysulfide caulk. Wood is better for sliding. Rubber is better for bumping.
I ripped my piece a bit large and used a joiner to get it to the right size. This worked well.
They were not hard to make. A drill press makes it about 1000% easier. I bought a Forstner bit to make the flat bottom hole. You have to mark your holes very carefully because small errors in the longitudinal spacing are problematic. You should use a machine vice with your drill press to keep things accurate and drill both the countersink and the through-hole without shifting the wood. Drill the through hole first.
Jim Chance
710M
All my post fully incorporate the Dunning-Kruger effect
I made a pair for my 710m last summer in a friend's shop. White oak was very nice to work with. Used stainless replacement bolts and added stainless washers to back the Forsner countersink. I decided on tung oil as a finish. It is used as a marine finish of rain and splashed mud should be no problem. It's also easy to keep looking like new. Just rub it with steel wool and add more oil. Wipe off the excess and it's like new! (Sorry, truck is in storage for the season so no pics for now.)
