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audiocontr wrote:4x4, if I help you see traffic lights, will you make me a set of those crx plates? Mine are way too tall (but still use the stock adjustment mechanisms)

I figured when doing my seats that they were for me and I am the principal driver so my comfort was far more important than any other potential driver. I chose to make them fit me. In reality there is not a lot of difference in seat location between people anyway. The passenger side was made to fit the wife and those who have rode there don't seem to mind the location.

Would it really need the metal plate? Seems like the outer frame would be enough.

the only metal plate is the one that extends to the rear to allow the wing bolt to secure the seat. The green under the seat is just some extra pinz top material I had. Was worried that the seat might wick up water when the water was under the seat. It does set that low.

The problem I have with making a seat frame where I don't have the seat is there are tons of differences between them. I tried it with a set that were supposedly from the same make and model of the ones I had. they did not fit and I ended up eating a lot of time and money trying to get them right. You would be better off to find a local fab guy and have him copy the design. It is really quite simple, as is most of the stuff I do.

Hit up a wrecking yard and find a seat that is 18" to 18 1/2" wide at it widest. Start by bolting a small piece to the original mounting points and then tie them together being mindful of the rise in the dog house. 3/4 square tubing fits nicely into the front mounts for the seat. Remember to tilt the seat base back slightly for comfort and leg support.

I used a .125 steel plate, first making a cardboard then a .125 wood pattern to correctly fit the plate. I removed the bottom mounting pieces from the Honda seats and
bolted the seats to the plate. The seats sit about 1 inch higher than originals but are very comfortable for a long (1600 miles) trip.
Making patterns allowed for the fitment of the adjustment levers.

http://s400.photobucket.com/user/mykric ... ort=3&o=66

Just got done fitting a pair of Paul's Seats to my buddies 710. Used Bernhard Leitne's idea for 1/4" aluminum seat bases made some feet out of 3/4"x 3/4" stock used Grade 8 hardware for the feet. They came out real nice. Hopefully he will post some pics. I had bought a pair to do in my 712m but never got to it before I sold it.

Yes I will! Thanks for the help Mopar, they would have lived in the box for much longer without your assistance!
And thanks to Paul C. for a great set of seats.

The seats and mounting plates look great!

Now I'm anxious to try making a set of plates for mine to replace the original frames and maybe I'll sit a bit lower.

Would love to see the underside of that seat!

audiocontr wrote:Would love to see the underside of that seat!

Here you go some pictures of the bases and seat bottoms and feet.

Hmmm... didnt find a need to shim and support the rear? Very cool!

pcolette wrote:The seats and mounting plates look great!

Now I'm anxious to try making a set of plates for mine to replace the original frames and maybe I'll sit a bit lower.

Paul
I can get you the template I used to cut the plate and for the feet.

audiocontr wrote:Hmmm... didnt find a need to shim and support the rear? Very cool!

Thought about a couple of pieces of woof, delrin or rubber for some midway support but the 1/4" aluminum is uber strong. What would I shim it sits on a fairly level plane at 3 points and I have a little 1/16" or so on the feet lipthat goes under the frot supports. It literally sits on the three factory points.

I'd look into the rubber hood adjusters for any old ford. You can screw them into the rear corners and adjust as needed.

Nice job!
You may want to support the front-lateral edge of your new seat plate so that the entire weight of the driver doesn't rest on
those box- like supports. The original seat support had a rail between the seat frame and floor on the lateral side to support the seat edges when the loaded with the driver's weight getting in and out of the truck. When your legs slide out the door, there is a twisting moment through the longitudinal axis of that seat plate.

Those 35 year old thin metal welds on the front supports will see less stress of the new seat plate with the lateral side supports.
I found that a rubber cane/crutch tip from the local hardware store and a short length of properly sized dowel fit quite nicely between the plate and floor, and eliminated the twisting/torque moments to the front supports.

viewtopic.php?f=17&t=7555

mopar wrote: Paul
I can get you the template I used to cut the plate and for the feet.

That would be great - thanks!
Email pcolette1 at gmail dot com

totaljoint wrote:Nice job!
You may want to support the front-lateral edge of your new seat plate so that the entire weight of the driver doesn't rest on
those box- like supports. The original seat support had a rail between the seat frame and floor on the lateral side to support the seat edges when the loaded with the driver's weight getting in and out of the truck. When your legs slide out the door, there is a twisting moment through the longitudinal axis of that seat plate.

Those 35 year old thin metal welds on the front supports will see less stress of the new seat plate with the lateral side supports.
I found that a rubber cane/crutch tip from the local hardware store and a short length of properly sized dowel fit quite nicely between the plate and floor, and eliminated the twisting/torque moments to the front supports.

viewtopic.php?f=17&t=7555

Yes I used your thread and ideas also they were a good part of the inspiration. I think some support will help keep the stress off of those welds I'm thinking some nice thick rubber stall mat pieces will give support and grip the floor to keep the lateral stresses at bay as well.

Feet Diagram