THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

Know what they say.."Without pics, it didn't happen".... Just teasing. When you can, tho, I would like to see pictures. I'm doing mine this year and want options. Thanks. Brian

I picked up the tubular steel rub rails from the power coater today that Andre Swanson made for some months ago. I think they came out pretty well. I found that they actually make it easier to get in and out despite having to go over them. They give you something to grab on to. Now the next big project will be painting the rest of the body someday.

Just saw the pic on Facebook. I really like the color combo, actually. Looks awesome!

The rub rails and door uppers are Tiger Drylac Sierra Tan powder coat. The front bumper is painted with Krylon Flat Cammo Tan. They are pretty close in color with the Krylon being slightly darker. Its hard to see unless they are right next to each other. I also did the dash and locker console in the tan powder coat to dress up the interior a little. It my way of customizing the Pinzi without getting too far from the original military look.


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Got some rails run off to replace my rotted-out originals. Done in the original beech (at least, mine were beech) tho' unfortunately only 2 metre lengths available in the best quality, so they'll be 2-piece. My thinking is that I can replace half a rail if (when!) damaged... Got 100m (enough for 12 712's) so if anyone's interested...

Love the way Bruce's go all the way forward. My advice for fasteners is to stay away from stainless unless you want to take advantage of its cracking or galling properties. Regular zinc or cadmium plating is pretty good. If you want better than that use McMaster's "Ultra Corrosion Proof".

I finally have a photo of last summer's handy-work. The new rails are white oak with tung oil finish. The finish is perfect. If it starts to fade I just add more oil and wipe the excess of the next day. Screws are now stainless and missing trapped nuts have been replaced with hollow center rivets that have the correct metric tread already in them. Used a very cool kit I found in Ottawa at Princess Auto.

Added the black accents too.

Cheers, Clive

tell me more of these rivets??

And how did you figure out where to drill the holes in the wood?

When I did mine I measured the spacing with a metric ruler than pulled a metric tap from first to last. They were evenly spaced at some thing round like 200 mm. I marked the wood and drilled it with a drill press with a machinist vice. I had to drill a few of them oversize when I fitted it but only a little bit. It was actually harder to find the center of the rail than the right longitudinal spacing.

tell me more of these rivets??

Also known as riv-nuts, rivet nuts, etc.: http://www.mcmaster.com/#94020a383/=xxv5bj. Not sure if this is the correct size for the rub rails, but you can get the idea.

This is lighter version of mine but does the same thing.

http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/4 ... -p2925204e

As said the holes are evenly spaced. A forstner bit took care of the counter sink. I used stainless machine screws and stainless washers too.

Cheers, Clive

Here is an old post by Ed that links to some cool hole finding tools!
Would be very helpful for side rails (mainly metal ones but could make something to work on thicker wood)
viewtopic.php?p=64352#p64352

Gorsko - your beech rails are nice!! (100 meters will do a lot of Pinz!!)
Clive - white oak makes sense and oiled look rocks on the camo

I beefed up mine and kept going.

I have the full set of original rub rails for the 710K, sanded and stained so the wood grain shows.
If your interested just PM me and we can work something out.

dadnova wrote:I beefed up mine and kept going.

I have the full set of original rub rails for the 710K, sanded and stained so the wood grain shows.
If your interested just PM me and we can work something out.

:idea: You probably would have more success selling these if you posted them in the Classified forum.

Reviving a thread here, as I had posted two years ago about my plans to replace my steel U-channel rub rails with rubber, in the same spirit as the factory rub rails on the TD Pinzgauers. I did just that last year, but never shared it here, and with a picture being worth a thousand words:


This kind of rubber profile is usually installed on loading docks, and is sold by the meter. In order to avoid the rubber sagging between the bolts, I added a length of stainless steel plate inside the profile, which you can see at the end of the rail. The rubber is in one piece, while the steel plate is in two pieces for ease of handling. The main advantages compared to my previous rails are the lighter weight, the absence of rust (my U-channels always started showing rusty spots next to the fasteners after a few months), the fact that water and dirt cannot get trapped between the rails and the truck's body, and lastly, when jumping out of the truck from the front seats, the much gentler feel on my underside...