Re: AMB-S Box cutouts for windows, etc.

[czarthirteen]

Hello all.....

I promised more about what I've experience working with the AMB shelter....here we go.

The shelter I have is made like a fiberglass slip-shell boat.....think Bayliner Capri....or a JetSki. It looks to be 4 cast-molded sections of shell; 2 inner right and left, seamed through the middle lenthwise and 2 outer sections seamed in the same manner. I'm guessing the manner of insulation inbetween the walls is of sandwich contruction as opposed to being expanded foam that is blown-in; I found evidence of adhesive upon further inspection and slcame across wht seem to be factory cuts of the insulation panels near the corners and other areas.

There are some 1"x2" wood strapping/framing surrounding the hatches for strength/support of openings, but its all really basic boat-building and fiberglass-kit construction, nothing to be afraid of as the structure of the shells in their completed configuration is seemingly self-supporting.

I feel I really kinda pushed the envelope for the length of window possible for free-supporting fitment. I've also used a pretty cheap alternative for my own pockets sake. The windows I used are from one of my old full-size, eight-foot bed truck caps. They are only single pane sliders but they were free to me and worked like a charm. I know there are plenty out there that would only go the route of double-pane, insulated, RV-spec windows, but old truck caps are plentiful and cheap, some people will even pay you to get one out of their yard! The windows I used are 6' parallelogram and they really open thing up inside. I am in the middle of fabricating triple-mesh safety screens with hatches to protect against branches and would-be wrong-doers like bears and dumb people. The hatches are only large enough to get the muzzle of our .410's out of and give some manueverability; about 3" high by 7" wide.

I did recess wood framing, glued construction and routered for fitment between the shells. Scoring and cutting out the insulation was kind-of a bear and in retrospect, probably not quite worth the effort. The adhesive used to bond the shells to the open-cell foam insulation forms almost like littles shards of glass in the outer recesses and pocks and kernals of the foam and the rough inner fiberglass wall surfaces, be careful in there...wear good leather gloves. The walls shell are extremely rigid any more support you put in them is just kinda overkill...but go ahead and do it, just don't fear cutting a big hole and having a really floppy wall....these shells are really quite bomber as I'm sure many who have them and have worked with them can attest.

I've heard of some going the cutting route using just a reciprocating saw (its only a Sawzall if yure talking about using a Milwaukee, guys). I'm a high-dollar contractor, not your average home-builder.....more of your dream-home-builder; it is my learned opinion that the tool used is of the utmost importance.....for every job. For this, I found that while my reciprocating saws could have gone through this stuff quite easily, it was a task that I desired to have much more fine control over. I went the route of using my best Bosche Jigsaw and a brand new pack of fiberglass/composite blades......like butter. The belt sander over the long planes to finish and the drum sander attachment for my 1/2" drill in the radius cuts did the trick. To anyone out there....if you are planning on making these kind of changes/modifications, before buying the pieces you think you might need to make the dream come together......buy the right tools first and get comfortable using them on something else. Don't let your first mistake learning be on the last thing you want to come out wrong.

So.....I chose to rivet the exterior flange of my windows....maybe not everyones choice, but I'm a big fan.....they're also glued. I use a marine-grade two-part epoxy....its for boat shells and a bit spendy but I use it in a lot of other applications such as SIPS and other crazy ideas of mine.....and I've got the special, big, pneumatic-ram applicator gun to use the stuff so i t works for me. Anyone else could get away with using standard RV sealant....which is bacially pure silicon.......this is the one part of the job where you're going to get perfomance no matter what you use, as long as you use something; even Alex latex+ available in the caulk section of most home-improvement stores will be better than nothing and more is better, wipe it away and clean it up as best as possible but make sure more is in there than you'll need.....a void-filled seal where there are no vaccuous spaces is the only seal that will offer any longevity.

I'm also planning on flushing-in my outer flanges once I get back into doing the fiberglass body work, as the glasses are removeable via the interior in case one were to suffer breakage, I just have to either wait for the weather to break or move the box indoors.

Which brings me to the next little ditty. Removing the box is a hammer-swing simple-dimple act if you just have the right tool, once again. Lifting it from its well-cast screw-ins for the eye-hooks in the roof with a couple of 3"x12' snatch-straps and a chain and spreader bars, with the lifting aid of a Kobelco excavator for me......if you've got a pole barn or a buddy with a garage and a lift......some chain-hoists and a high deck that you can drive under.....I hope you're getting the picture. This thing lifted off so easily, so easily that I decided to permanently mount the brackets for slide-in camper jacks, giving me the abilty to bolt-on my legs, drop feet, lift, disconnect and drive away.

The box is attached via 3 ingeniously designed spring-bushing/relief bolts down each side accessible through rubber-bunged ports underneath the bed rail. There is a coned locator-pin fore and aft on one side and the other, passenger and driver, diagonally front and rear that does not get removed; if the box is only unbolted and slid off, not only will these locator pins break but you may also miss the fact that there is a gas line on male/female aviation-grade stainless fuel quick-connects right over the fuel tank, and that there is an electrical feed into the shell from under the rear door on the drivers side for the liscense plate lights.

I removed my box for the simple reason that I didn't buy the truck to drive around with an extra 1000 pounds in it....all the time. I knew these structures were easily removed, my goal is to make it as easy as any other slide-in camper. I saw a picture of a really well-appointed blue one recently, its nice to know that others have taken the same idea to fruition also.

These boxes were meant to be lifted off.....I wouldn't reccommend sliding them.....but talk about a zippy truck afterward.....just ask PinzgauerPete......zippy. for a 712, its saying something....they seem to be a bit more fun without the box. The box will be base-camp for us most of the time, I don't foresee having it on the back too often unless we're going somewhere else with it and for longer travels, obviously....but its nice to be able to get away frm it......

So now I'm working on the interior cabinetry, all aluminum framing with fiberglass skins for ease of cleaning and weight reductions. The Eberspachers are out and not going back in as that cabinet has been removed and is about 90% finished as a locking security hatch accessible for egress to the cockpit. On-board compressor has its location in a nice little tucked away spot left underneath the radius profile of the spare-wheel cabinet. Keeping that cabinet and retractable hoist but refitting it to aid in the removal of a welder and much larger mechanics kit than was orignally intended.....spare wheels will be going to the rear and exteroir of the truck on bumper-mounted tire/jerry can swing-outs.

Ebrspachers are still available to the highest bidder, they're near mint and look only to have been fired for tests. I've been around these units before, VW 412, an old Tartan sloop....I know what they look like after being run....these show very litte sign of use.

Will get some better pictures of newer progress after the weekend but I hope I can get a few t come through.

[bdelaporte]

Thanks for your in depth info on the box project. I wish I would have thought about the pick up bed cover as a source for cheap windows as I have been scouring through marine surplus shops and Craigs list (used RV windows). I ended up finding a NOS set of HD aluminum framed marine windows for a military patrol boat at a pretty decent price.

I would really like to see/hear more about your lift set up for when away from the shop as well as pics of the portal between the box and cab (in lieu of the cabinet for the heaters. Since I have kids, I like the idea of having more than a pass through window and since 99% of my usage will be in the SE USA, the current heaters will most likely be taken out.

Any additional pics that you can post or email would be appreciated. Thanks again for the details. It makes the job seem much less daunting when someone has already gone there.

[Pinzgauer Pete]

Coming along quite nicely Ryan I like the idea of installing the truck cap windows and you're right no matter where you go those are always available should one experience a untimely demise. Have you made any progress with the heating units you wanted to mount? am really interested to see how those work out for you. Keep the pics coming of your project as you make progress...see ya soon!