Rattle can touch-ups

djw · Post by **djw** » Fri Jun 22, 2012 6:47 pm

If anyone bothers to to rattle can touch-ups I thought I would pass along my personal observations on available store bought colors I have run across in the US. My perspective is only from an Austrian 710K, which I think is reasonably faded but hanging on to it's current paint with gusto, and I believe the PO was the military. The comments hold true on exterior and interior paint (interior not being directly in the sun). A couple caveats, 1) I have not yet pulled any panels that never see the light of day and 2) I have no idea whether the Austrian color is the same as the original Swiss color, or if either is actually RAL6014.

I tried SAV's Swiss Army Green, Krylon OD Camo OD ultra flat, and Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II OD Green.

SAV's paint: the under label says it is made in in the EU and RAL6014 - darker and somewhat glossy compared to the others. Maybe it is spot-on for RAL6014, I have nothing to compare it to. Does not match inside or outside on my truck very well. I think this is the worst match for the current condition, inside and outside on my truck. No idea how it holds up compared to the others, and it's $11/can + shipping. Attractive darker green tho, be nice if my Pinz was this color.

Krylon Camo OD: I've used this a few times it's a fair match for the $4 price. My experience is that it does not hold up for long but it is easy and idiot proof.

Aluma-Hyde II OD Green (Brownell's): The closest match, almost dead on for me. Very flat, which is what my old exterior is. Much flatter than my interior surfaces and I doubt I would spray it here. I've used AHII on other non-Pinz projects. It's a firearm camo paint, lots of colors, about $13/can. Other projects have show it to be really tough if allowed to fully cure (which is ~~2 weeks at room temperature!). A PITA to apply since it works best when it the ambient temps are in the 90s and the surface is warm, which rules out winter use north of the sunbelt. I buy extra nozzles as it is common to clog the can with bad technique. I'm guessing I'd have to paint a spot 4 times with Krylon before the AHII would wear off, so I'm not sure there is any price differential in the long run.

I painted my original rub rails, which were peeling black paint when I got it, sanded then to bare wood, with Krylon semi-gloss black, and the paint was easy to flake off within just a few weeks. I repainted them again Aluma-hyde II semi-gloss black, let it cure, and have lost none of the paint yet. YMMV.

I'll do a nice proper repaint someday, but not soon. In the pics, the dark green is SAV, the middle Krylon, and the lighter closer-to-my-eye match is the AHII.

David Dunn · Post by **David Dunn** » Fri Jun 22, 2012 7:23 pm

A couple of things. The original Swiss paint also contain IR pigment to offset the heat signature of the truck, this would slightly alter the color, and as you said, your truck was Austrian, and I doubt they use the same color formula as the Swiss.

4x4Pinz · Post by **4x4Pinz** » Fri Jun 22, 2012 7:32 pm

several things to note. What type and color of primer did you use, this will effect the outcome of the color of the paint. If you are comparing paint applied to wood to paint applied to metal you will get discrepancies especially if the wood was not primed. I found that if you apply a light coat of WD to the original Swiss paint the RAL 6014 is very close. Since I no longer have mil paint as a finish on my truck I know exactly what color I need to touch it up. I did stay with an ultra flat so touch up would be a breeze.

990 degree is a beautiful sunny winter day, it is the warmer temps that cause us so much trouble (paint dries before hitting truck)

djw · Post by **djw** » Fri Jun 22, 2012 7:36 pm

David Dunn wrote:I doubt they use the same color formula as the Swiss.

If anyone has any original paint codes or data in this regard, it would be great for future reference when time comes for a repaint.

djw · Post by **djw** » Fri Jun 22, 2012 7:49 pm

4x4Pinz wrote:If you are comparing paint applied to wood to paint applied to metal you will get discrepancies especially if the wood was not primed.

Certainly so, but to my eye not much for touch ups. I recently sanded and rattle-canned the exterior mounted axe and shovel (wood & metal), and really can't identify any difference in shade, and didn't prime them either, the AHII details state a primer is not necessary, so I went with it.

CentAr712 · Post by **CentAr712** » Fri Jun 22, 2012 7:56 pm

The Austrian color is RAL 7013. Maybe I'm wrong, I think perhaps it's not RAL 7013, but I am sure it's not RAL 6014, it's too brown looking.

David Dunn · Post by **David Dunn** » Fri Jun 22, 2012 8:01 pm

Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 5:36 pm

Re: Rattle can touch-ups
David Dunn wrote:
I doubt they use the same color formula as the Swiss.

If anyone has any original paint codes or data in this regard, it would be great for future reference when time comes for a repaint.

That has been the question of the ages, as long as I've been on the boards. The RAL6014 seems to be as close as anyone has determined.
As Mike pointed out, everything affects the final outcome.
Armies aren't into nice, clean uniform paint job, rather to hide their arse from the enemy

... ever seen the British Bronze Green... scary if it made it into the field... the British desest tan was a pinkish color used by the SAS.
The best anyone can do with a "over the counter" rattle can is hope it matches their 'fade'... or respray it entirely. When I painted my 716 years ago, I had urethane mixed to match a rattle can tan for touchup.
It's all into how far one want to go to match...or how good their eyes are.
But it is always good to see different manufacturer's products..

djw · Post by **djw** » Fri Jun 22, 2012 8:42 pm

CentAr712 wrote:The Austrian color is RAL 7013. Maybe I'm wrong, I think perhaps it's not RAL 7013, but I am sure it's not RAL 6014, it's too brown looking.

I suspect for the Austrian color you are indeed right. There are rattle can RAL 7013 colors can be found, the model builders certainly use this for their Austrian vehicles. If I find some I will see how it compares to my 'shade of fade'. The Krylon is a bit too green, and the SAV RAL 6014 paint is way too green to match inside or outside or unfaded parts on the Austrian color.

To David's point of scary, even now a with a bit of fade with lighter patches here and there the truck all but disappears in the shade of a few trees, and at night I can't find it if I can't remember where it is parked

mopar · Post by **mopar** » Fri Jun 22, 2012 10:02 pm

When I had my 712M I scuffed and rattle canned the whole outside of the truck with the krylon Camo. The plastic bonding they use sticks very well to the old paint. Took maybe 5-7 cans and it gave it a nice uniform ultra flat color I liked and it held up well and touch up was a breeze and undetectable. Now I didn't have any wood rails to paint ane I can imagine it wouldn't hold up well on the wood but on my steel C channel rail it held up like a champ. Cleaned my truck up nice and it went from rough looking to tidy and clean for under $50 and was easy to maintain. Definitely wasn't a good touch up for the original color a bit more green and not enough brown that was why I painted the whole outside with it and it then had a nice uniform color that I could very easily match at the local walmart. This was a truck I bought to drive and offroad not a grarge queen shelby cobra.

krick3tt · Post by **krick3tt** » Sat Jun 23, 2012 7:56 pm

I repaint mine every year with rattle can OD from WalMart. Costs about $20. It is an off road truck not a show stopper.
I just want to keep the rust at bay and have a decent looking vehicle...which is what I have. I once read on this forum
that one of the guys paid about $5000 for a paint job on his pinz, WOW. I would never drive that vehicle. Be too afraid
of water spots and dust.

westernair · Post by **westernair** » Sat Jun 23, 2012 8:35 pm

Painted my k with SAV paint that came with the truck (5 cans) plus 2 more I bought. Noah owns the truck now

texas pinzgauer · Post by **texas pinzgauer** » Thu Jun 28, 2012 6:58 am

And don't forget Andre Swanson's killer paint dress up trick...WD40! It really improves the appearance of the paint.

edzz · Post by **edzz** » Thu Jun 28, 2012 10:46 pm

texas pinzgauer wrote:And don't forget Andre Swanson's killer paint dress up trick...WD40! It really improves the appearance of the paint.

Kind of a variation of the practice I’ve been told about by former Swiss service men of giving the trucks a rub down with diesel fuel after returning from field operations before putting them back in storage.

mopar · Post by **mopar** » Sat Jun 30, 2012 9:23 pm

edzz wrote:
texas pinzgauer wrote:And don't forget Andre Swanson's killer paint dress up trick...WD40! It really improves the appearance of the paint.

Kind of a variation of the practice I’ve been told about by former Swiss service men of giving the trucks a rub down with diesel fuel after returning from field operations before putting them back in storage.

or you could use some armorall I did that my first time around.

Bulldawg · Post by **Bulldawg** » Sun Jul 15, 2012 12:17 am

When I was stationed in Berlin we went to field training twice a year. Just before we left Berlin driving thru east Germany we gave all the green machines a rub down with diesel to make them look freshly painted. As a side note, the dirt and grime came off easier when we got through playing.