Door weatherstripping replacment

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djw
United States of America
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Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2012 5:00 pm
Location: Colleyville, TX

Re: Door weatherstripping replacment

Post by djw »

Twin Pinzies wrote:I used this: http://www.pinzgauer.com/showdetails.ph ... 111763352A with good results.
I peeled off the old seal, thoroughly cleaned the surface, then cut-to-fit sections and attached it with gel style super glue.
After two years, it has held well. It made quite a difference in the "snuggness" of the doors!
You get about 12ft from for $29.50. I got around to looking at the 12ft bag I got from SAV had 3 pieces super-glued together (and coming apart), most of it permanently creased and folded and I doubt I will use it as it's likely not any better than the stuff that is already in place.

Nevertheless, the stuff is about 1" deep and .8 wide so it might be a generic part.
Attachments
11-2-2012 8-34-08 PM.jpg
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11-2-2012 8-33-32 PM.jpg
11-2-2012 8-33-32 PM.jpg (34.58 KiB) Viewed 7258 times
'74 710K (ÖBH Austrian Rehab) mostly unmolested original - the unicorn (everything works!)
collecting pinz docs since 2012 - pm me if I can help
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rmel
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Re: Door weatherstripping replacment

Post by rmel »

Two leaky doors and two rattlers, time to replace all door seals on the Mozo 1.

Waited two months for SAV to get the latest shipment. This stuff is different from prior runs.
It is still the same Trident shape (see PIX below), but fully extruded closed cell foam. Thought
I would share my experience with this new seal on the forum -- some +'s and -'s to watch out for.

The prior material noted by djw, is stiffer than the newer stuff with a less compliant yellow'ish foam core.
The new material is very "stretchy" this can be both a problem and an advantage. First cautionary note,
for a 710K the three door types will require varying lengths of seal to complete. With the 5'th door
measuring in at ~164" which is the longest piece you will need. Fortunately, it occurred to me to
measure each of the 5 seals I received, sorting each per door type saved me from running short.
Even still the longest piece was 2" shorter than the measured need for the 5"th door. I decided to
give it a try and stretch this seal to fit. This turned out to not only work but I found that it was a good
practice for all the doors as a very slight stretch took up any wrinkles in the material. In general I found
cutting door pieces ~1/2" short seemed to do the trick. I haven't checked in with SAV on this but I
suspect that the piece 2" too short for the 5'th door was due to the stretchyness of the material, pulling
it off the reel I'm betting inadvertently ended up short by 2" -- but it didn't matter.

I can't cut strait to save my life. With this new material you now get to cut your own corners for
the 45's. For this I made a Miter and a Joiner. The Miter is made from 1 1/2" square aluminum
tube. Find a seal long enough to cut a 5" to 6" piece to make a mold from. Use non hardening
gasket seal Permatex #2, apply a thin coat of Vaseline on the lobes, insert in a corner of the tubing
and pour in 2 part molding compound. After the recommended curing time, pull the sample out and
presto a copy of the seal cast in the tube. I cut the 45 on a table saw using a high point count Tungsten
carbide blade -- cuts clean but move the material very slow. Polish the faces with Emory as this will be
the cutting surface with a razor. I used the longest razors I could find. You have to think through the angle
to cut the 45's -- you get one chance to get this right :)

6" piece I pulled form the mold I used for trial cuts and corners -- good practice.

I made a joiner out of 3/4" wood stock just to have a nice firm corner to hold the pieces to be joined.
I used RapidFit to join the corners and the usual 3M weather seal adhesive to fit in the completed seal.

It all came out pretty nice. For those of you who can cut straight and have steady hands this is
probably just unnecessary work. But it sure helped me and it was cool assembling all the cut
pieces per door into a one piece construction that just fit and glued into place.

One disadvantage with this new material is that it is very compliant. Watch how the seal fits when
closing your doors near the door hinge side. The seal may buckle and fold and not slip in place
properly as the material this stuff is very. I waxed and buffed my inner door jams and that made a
good slippery surface to minimize any folding. You want the seal to fit as perfect as possible for at
least a few weeks until the material takes on a "memory". You may also need to use some thin
neoprene as a shim in some places to push in/out the seal to fit proper. I had one corner like this and
that did it, now there seems to be enough memory the shim is not needed. I'll wait for the warm
weather to be sure.

I would be curious to know if anyone else has tried this new material and your experiences.
Attachments
New seal material form SAV
New seal material form SAV
Trident.jpg (17.1 KiB) Viewed 7029 times
Miter. Made from 1 1/2" Square aluminum tube. Tack in 6" sample of the seal material in one corner, use no-hardening gasket sealer and Vaseline on the lobes. Pour in molding compound, let cure and pull the seal out. Cut 45 on a table saw.
Miter. Made from 1 1/2" Square aluminum tube. Tack in 6" sample of the seal material in one corner, use no-hardening gasket sealer and Vaseline on the lobes. Pour in molding compound, let cure and pull the seal out. Cut 45 on a table saw.
Miter.jpg (37.08 KiB) Viewed 7029 times
Fitted and ready to cut, use long razor blades, each is good for about 5 to 6 cuts before dull.
Fitted and ready to cut, use long razor blades, each is good for about 5 to 6 cuts before dull.
Miter-cut.jpg (23.24 KiB) Viewed 7029 times
Cut and ready to join
Cut and ready to join
Clean-cut.jpg (20.58 KiB) Viewed 7029 times
Door-corner.jpg
Door-corner.jpg (14.14 KiB) Viewed 7029 times
Pinz710m2

Re: Door weatherstripping replacment

Post by Pinz710m2 »

I think the doors are on my to-do list , but I'm curious if anyone
knows where to get the gaskets for the storage areas? Mine are
badly deteriorated. Need to be replaced ASAP. Does anyone carry
a direct replacement material?
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pcolette
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Re: Door weatherstripping replacment

Post by pcolette »

I'm guessing that you're referring to the the battery box and tool/storage box? If so, the part number is 7001610998 (battery/tool box seal) and is available from EI and SAV.
Paul C.
_________
'73 Swiss 710M
'89 Puch 230GE
Pinz710m2

Re: Door weatherstripping replacment

Post by Pinz710m2 »

Thanks. I couldn't find that on there. Just ordered.
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GenevaPinz
Switzerland
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Re: Door weatherstripping replacment

Post by GenevaPinz »

Rmel,
Thanks for the pics and explanations!
Now I know exactly why my door corners look crap and yours look like they came out of the factory... :wink:
Jan

'72 Pinzgauer 710M
namtinker
Canada
Posts: 40
Joined: Fri Jul 08, 2016 1:21 pm
Location: Alberta, Canada

Re: Door weatherstripping replacment

Post by namtinker »

rmel
Great job....
I'm using the same material as you. A question. The seal is arrow shaped. It fits in the U channel around the door perimeter.
Where does the arrow "point" go? U corner on the glass side, or the outside?
Described differently, on your last photo, top run, does the arrow "tail" point 45 degrees up or down?

Cheers
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rmel
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Re: Door weatherstripping replacment

Post by rmel »

Dono if this PIX helps. Basically you want the rubber leaning toward the chassis so
that when the door closes the rubber is pushed outward creating a seal. So get the
lower corner into the outer part of the door frame with the tip leaning toward the
truck open frame. Hopefully the PIX makes more sense :?

Incidentally, it's been 2 years and the corners are still holding strong from the mitered
corners and the adhesive I used.

good luck.
rubber-jam.jpg
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Puller: 71' 710K 2.7L EFI aka Mozo
Follower: Sankey MK 3, 3/4 Tonne
Rescue Pinz: 73' 712MK

Driver: Ron // KO0Q
namtinker
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Re: Door weatherstripping replacment

Post by namtinker »

Ok thanks - good I asked. I had the tip leaning outwards, but it then appears as if the long "tail" section was to long. It got caught between the door and truck frame.
Did you glue both surfaces of the arrow head or only one?
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rmel
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Re: Door weatherstripping replacment

Post by rmel »

Yes, glue both sides of the rubber that contacts the door surfaces
and apply glue to the metal surfaces as well, wait for this to get tacky
then show that puppy in. Have a blunt wide plastic putty knife and use it
to push it home on both sides. Do this door section by section starting in
one corner, applying glue to the next opposing corner and stop there. Get
your rubber in that section, then go to the next section. It's a bit tricky. I
cut my rubber slightly shorter than the edges measured by a few percent
then stretched to the opposing corner so that there was no bunching up.

Did 5 doors this way and didn't have to re-do any, beginners luck :D

There's also a good Video on application of the glue on the 3M WEBsite.
I'd suggest using the yellow not the black as any ooze won't be as visible
with yellow as black.
Puller: 71' 710K 2.7L EFI aka Mozo
Follower: Sankey MK 3, 3/4 Tonne
Rescue Pinz: 73' 712MK

Driver: Ron // KO0Q
namtinker
Canada
Posts: 40
Joined: Fri Jul 08, 2016 1:21 pm
Location: Alberta, Canada

Re: Door weatherstripping replacment

Post by namtinker »

Luck... It seems to improve when you plan! :-)
Good suggestion with the knife. Yes, I saw the presentation of the glue, and also opted for yellow.
Will do it this weekend.
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TechMOGogy
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Re: Door weatherstripping replacment

Post by TechMOGogy »

Old thread but I had it bookmarked.
Just cleaning up a few small bits and my passenger door seal was coming off a bit.
I cleaned up the channel (removed 3M yellow - used PRE to soften and then a dry towel, came off quickly)
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Used the 3M black as I did not like the look of the yellow - used a small brush to spread it
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Andre did my corner cuts so they were good
Did not worry about getting the black all over, more concerned with correct placement as it was super easy to clean excess with the PRE solvent
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More mess cleaned up - thanks as this thread heaped me before I started!
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Last edited by TechMOGogy on Mon Jun 26, 2017 1:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
72 Pathfinder | 75 710M 2.7i | 96 350GDT Worker
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TechMOGogy
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Re: Door weatherstripping replacment

Post by TechMOGogy »

Last picture
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Last edited by TechMOGogy on Mon Jun 26, 2017 1:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
72 Pathfinder | 75 710M 2.7i | 96 350GDT Worker
pinzinator
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Re: Door weatherstripping replacment

Post by pinzinator »

If your weatherstripping is still good, spray it with WD-40 a few times a year and wipe away the excess. This will help preserve the condition.
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