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I would like to add front door locks to my 710M for "peace of mind." Obviously the canvas top could be cut or a window smashed, but in most situations during daylight hours this isn't the case. What I'm astounded by is the exorbitant price for door lock its - $468.74 for 3 doors from SAV. There are a few parts in the kit, but none of them are high tech IMO. $100 would be more in line (still excessive). Why the high cost? Are there alternatives other than hasps and padlocks?

The door latches are unique to the Pinz and the lock parts are unique to the latches. I haven't come across an alternative method. We're at the mercy of the European suppliers that set the prices to SAV and EI.

Here's a set on ebay that you may be able to pick up for a bit less: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-DOOR-LOCK-SET ... 4d22398c7d

I followed the same train of thought when I orderd mine from the same place in '08: very expensive but fabricating would not be cheap and very time consuming (at least for my skill level)...

At the time I "only" paid USD 255,82, still waaaaaay too expensive.
I really don't know why the further price inflation. Foreign exchange rates difference between now and '08 would only account for 15-20% of the increase.

I hope you can find a set with a reasonable price.

I have bought several items from ebay seller mstr6x6.

You get what you pay for. Quality is 100% correct. Shipping is very fast. This week, he sent me some lovely door window gaskets (the fuzzy rubbery ones for the front windows) which installed perfectly and are a great improvement. Earlier this spring, I bought from the same seller, a complete rear top for my 710m (yes, $$$), and it was dead-on perfect.

If I actually wanted or needed door locks, I wouldn't bat an eyelash at $400 for them from mstr6x6.

I have no affiliation with him. Just a happy customer!



-Daniel



p.s. In full disclosure, I am probably not a fair estimator of car parts value. I own a business that sells Ferrari, Maserati, and Lamborghini parts.

I also have purchased from mstr6x6 on ebay and found him to be A+. He accepted a lower priced offer on the 3-lock set he recently had listed. How much lower is not known...

I've been looking into manufacturing a batch of these, as i have access to a laser CNC and a manual mill. I think this price is absolutely absurd.

What I'll need is a lock first though, so the part can be designed to fit. If anyone has expertise in lock smithing or locating we should talk!

Back when I had spark ignition M Pinzes , I had looked at the factory lock setup and determined it wasn’t worth going through the hassle of installing them because they could only be locked and unlocked by the key from the exterior. The mechanism rotates a bar behind the latch to block it from retracting. If they failed while locked , you’re pretty much SOL. And with a “M”, only kept a honest person out and if someone wanted in, those locks wouldn’t slow anyone down, just pop the door and create body damage. Only a little more effort with a K
I was thinking of designing a lock that a fail safe or manual interior release could unlock the mechanism, but didn’t spend much time on it and installed a cylinder lock on the glove box instead and didn’t leave anything else of value visible.
The only special tool needed for the glovebox is a double D punch and die to make the cutout in the door ( or plenty of time with a drill and file ) .

Those are good ideas Mr. Dunn. In addition, if for some reason it's locked when the door is slammed, something's gonna break or bend.

Adding a manual unlock definitely complicates the mechanism, unfortunately.

From a civilian viewpoint, the locks are garbage, but the truck was not designed for civilian use, but for the utilitarian needs of the military, and serve that purpose.
The slam locks like used in the 710/12 were outlawed by DOT back around '73, and anyone that has history with Series LRs will remember the change over from slam locks to the "anti-burst" locks. 716/18s have the newer style commercial door locks. IF you have the cash, you could install TD doors onto your 710/12 only relocating the hinges and the newer strike (some body work needed). The 710/12 and 716/18 doors are the same size and shape overall, it's everything else that's different.

If I hadn't moved up the evolution ladder , I might have developed something for the 710/12.

Jack Russell Racing wrote:I have bought several items from ebay seller mstr6x6.

You get what you pay for. Quality is 100% correct. Shipping is very fast. This week, he sent me some lovely door window gaskets (the fuzzy rubbery ones for the front windows) which installed perfectly and are a great improvement. Earlier this spring, I bought from the same seller, a complete rear top for my 710m (yes, $$$), and it was dead-on perfect.

If I actually wanted or needed door locks, I wouldn't bat an eyelash at $400 for them from mstr6x6.

I have no affiliation with him. Just a happy customer!



-Daniel



p.s. In full disclosure, I am probably not a fair estimator of car parts value. I own a business that sells Ferrari, Maserati, and Lamborghini parts.

wow, remind me not to misplace my carbon fibre gas cap......yikes!

Some locking ideas. If both front doors are set to be lockable from the inside one of the windows were secured with a display case lock (not very expensive) you could secure your Pinz for cheap. Not the best option however it's an option...

See this thread for info about how to lock your Pinz from the inside.

viewtopic.php?f=22&t=9190&p=68121#p68121

Brilliant, Ed!
Thanks for discovering and clearly posting this.
Do you think it was one of those cleverly designed items by the.Pinzgauer engineers to keep enemy troops out, or just a fortuitous placement of rods and screws?

edzz wrote:Some locking ideas. If both front doors are set to be lockable from the inside one of the windows were secured with a display case lock (not very expensive) you could secure your Pinz for cheap. Not the best option however it's an option...

See this thread for info about how to lock your Pinz from the inside.

viewtopic.php?f=22&t=9190&p=68121#p68121

Edzz, that is great! I heard rumors about removing that screw, but was skeptical. I took the door lock apart to see how this could work and it is quite obvious that it was designed to lock in this way. It even allows the door to slam shut when it is already locked, since it only prevents the outside handle from moving.

Those window glass locks are cheap too: less than $10. It's an easy solution to install, but not as easy to use everyday. I'd still like something easier to get back into after it's locked.

I'm getting some parts lasered on Monday that will adapt a cheap cam lock into the 6-tab cutout in the door. My goal is to not need any body modification. I have a good idea for a lock similar to the $400 one that would operate similar to a normal car lock: turn right to lock, left to unlock, and a knob inside to lock and unlock ( and to indicate lock state). It uses a bar that prevents the latch from moving.

But now I'm thinking it would be a better solution to adapt the built in lock (with removing that screw) into my keyed lock. The only difference between my designs being that you could lock the door from the inside then slam it shut.

Not sure which style I prefer. Any opinions?

Whatever happened to the install instructions can't find them anywhere?

mopar wrote:Whatever happened to the install instructions can't find them anywhere?

Only instructions I have ever seen are (were) here.
Looks like all the pics were removed/lost
http://www.expedition-imports.com/categ ... k_install/

I see a Tech article in your future