Show us ya tool...pinz specific tooling

[one2many]

Screenshot_2015-11-24-17-21-15.png (650.55 KiB) Viewed 5039 times

Ive been thinking about starting this thread for a while as I thought it might encourage us to take on repairs we might not of otherwise felt confident with, so here it is.
I'm curious to see or read about specific pinz tools that people have fabricated to get the job done. Buying scecialized tools can be expensive especially if they only have very limited or one off use, for this reason where possible I like to make some of the tools needed for the pinz especially if I can save a few bucks. Here's a few pics of some things I've made that did the job nicely, I'm happy to add further details like exact measurements if people are interested. Show us what you've knocked up I'd love to see it, also include easily available generic tools that are relatively cheap and tools you've modified to make it happen....like basic puller sets or tie rod/joint breakers etc.

I rebuilt my gearbox about 18 months ago, I've never done a manual gearbox of any kind before this and was a bit reluctant but I've always wanted to learn and there wasn't anyone down here I trusted anyway so it seemed like as good a time as any, besides it was done only a few thousand km's before this because the previous owner ran it low on oil (incorrect filling procedure), he used a local gearbox specialist who shimmed it incorrectly because he cut his own gaskets. So why trust it to another idiot "specialist". Luckily for me I had profpinz to bounce my concerns off and he encouraged me to go for it. I should add that while I had never been inside a gearbox I do have a background in heavy vehicles and some earthmoving machinery so this did give a level of confidence.

[one2many]

I'm not sure how to write captions in between or after photos so I'm starting a new post.

Apart from a gas barbecue with a hood to heat the relavant gears and syncro hubs up to temp (bit of help with an LPG torch) the tools pictured above is everything I needed to to the job and the manual was easy to follow with easy step by step instructions, everything makes much more sense once you get the box apart. IIRC the only parts I made are the big puller in the background, the aluminium press plate as well as a cut length of steel tubing to reach around the mainshaft/layshaft and the small aluminium ring and disc to protect the steel surfaces, I also bought a decent set of ratcheting circlip pliers which made life much easier .With these I entirely dissembled both shafts and reassembled it with all the needed new parts this time with factory gaskets which made the shimming a breeze. I took my time with it and I'm really happy with the result, its done approx 10000km since the rebuild and its still running smooth and quiet.

If you think you might be up to this job then I reckon go for it as it wasn't that difficult.

[one2many]

CRANK PULLEY PULLER.

This was really easy and worked perfectly, it works exactly like the factory puller except I used a bolt cut to length to screw into the end of the crank to push against instead of a press disc to protect the internal thread of the crank. Its only a piece of all thread, two nuts and a piece of steel I ground down (angle grinder) and tapped a thread into, oh and the cut down bolt, make sure the outside diameter fits through the inside pulley diameter or you'll be pulling and pulling and you'll get nowhere but your probably used to that...I am
I probably have a couple of other little things but I'll wait and see if people are following.

[undysworld]

Just a comment: When making tools like your crank pulley puller, I've found that Acme threaded rods work much better and last much longer than standard threaded components. I get it cheap here: http://www.surpluscenter.com

[one2many]

Not sure what the term "Acme" means exactly but I definitely use high tensile or a hardened all thread whenever its available and the thread pitch I chose matched that of another small puller kit I have, for versatility. It's probably not that important for the crank pulley above as they usually aren't on there that tight.

Depending on the application sometimes softer or more forgiving steel is called for to avoid damage to the hardened surfaces of the parts being worked on, it depends on the job but hard steel is generally best for pullers and most other tools.

[undysworld]

Acme Thread:
The original trapezoidal thread form, and still probably the one most commonly encountered worldwide, is the Acme thread form (/ˈækmiː/ ack-mee). The Acme thread was developed sometime in the second half of the nineteenth century as a profile well suited to power screws that has various advantages over the square thread,[a] which had been the form of choice until then. It is easier to cut via either single-point threading or die than the square thread is (because the latter's shape requires tool bit or die tooth geometry that is poorly suited to cutting); it wears better than square (because the wear can be compensated for); it is stronger than a comparably sized square thread; and it makes for smoother engagement of the half nuts on a lathe leadscrew than square does.[2][3]
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trapezoidal_thread_forms

[TechMOGogy]

Innovative!
Thanks for posting

[Profpinz]

Ohhh, two of my favourite subjects, Pinzgauers and Tools.

Over the years I've made many specific tools and jigs to facilitate work for my vehicles (the 712 and Haffies) but lately had to add to the collection for the 718.
A lot of tools required to work on the on the 718 are more "commercially available" given that the motor and gearbox are more commonly used, but I'm not sure if that's a good or bad thing.

The basis of a lot of my "jigs" relies on the base I made over 35 years for working on Haflingers......since then I've made motor mounts for both the Haflinger and Pinzgauers Motors and a jig to hold all Pinny diff casings.



712 & 718 Pinzgauer Jigs

Diff Jig


Diff Castelated Nut Socket


712 Specific

Stub Axle Removal Tool



Motor Mount....it's sitting on a seperate base with my spare motor at the moment, but it can bolt onto the stand


Front Spring Compressors


Units for pushing off the Axle Drives


Screw Tap for fitting in the front diff steering bushes so they can be pushed out.


718 Specific

Camshaft lock, cam belt tensioner, Injector setup shaft, glow plug socket and torque convertor holder.


Piston/deck height guage


D24Tic removable head dowels


Injector Pulley Spanner


Crankshaft Pulley Retainer


D24Tic Motor Lifter


Stub Axle Retainer


Wheel-stud Thread Cleaner


Body/Platform jig/stand



Haflinger Specific

Motor stand ....used with base.


Brake spring assembly tool........my FIRST and most useful tool.

[one2many]

As always Peter very impressive and an inspiration, as the need arises I'd love to copy some of your 712 specific tools, in particular the axle related goodies. This would save me a lot of time working out correct measurements etc.

Oh hang on...that could take some of the fun out of it

Thanks for posting that lot, I reckon you've been out in your workshop dragging that lot out and taking photos since the thread began

[McCall Pinz]

Silly me, I got stuck on the vacuum distributor on your spare motor... Did it work?

[Profpinz]

the vacuum distributor on your spare motor... Did it work?

It came like that from the SDP....it's actually out of my factory 710-1.6 prototype which was built for Australian Military trials back in the mid 80's.
The vehicle is a strange mix of air cooled and TD......longer wheelbase than a 710, disk brakes, power steering but an air cooled motor, gearbox and transfer setup.

http://members.westnet.com.au/profpinz/ ... ybrids.htm