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I know notching the bottom of the door out to avoid having to remove the handle is a common trick. I went a step further and
installed some spring loaded quick turn handles. The threaded stem on the front one needs to be trimmed to about 1/4" long to fit.
McMaster part number: 6610K35

Now that's a great hardware find! Thanks!

I don't even know where the bolts for mine are anymore. I don't bother putting them on since the door tops are only on for a couple days a year. Gotta love living in great climate.

Nice

This will be done to my truck for sure. Those damn tops are on and off so much, some days I just don't drive it so I don't have the hassle. This will fix that! Thanks

Does it rattle at all with those pins i would love to do that to mine just dont how tight it is cuold u post more pics and how you did the custom work thanks.

Rookie wrote:Does it rattle at all with those pins i would love to do that to mine just dont how tight it is cuold u post more pics and how you did the custom work thanks.

Didja look it up? https://www.mcmaster.com/#6610k35/=17z8ac5 It seems pretty self-explanatory. Looks as if it would tighten up just like a regular bolt - as tight as you prefer.

I'd assume that shortening the threaded rod could be accomplished either by a hacksaw or a grinder. At least that's how I'd do it.

Just ordered these, can't wait. It's the little things that create convenience in these trucks that I get all exited about!

Sounds good i will definitely be putting these on

undysworld wrote:

Rookie wrote:Does it rattle at all with those pins i would love to do that to mine just dont how tight it is cuold u post more pics and how you did the custom work thanks.

Didja look it up? https://www.mcmaster.com/#6610k35/=17z8ac5 It seems pretty self-explanatory. Looks as if it would tighten up just like a regular bolt - as tight as you prefer.

I'd assume that shortening the threaded rod could be accomplished either by a hacksaw or a grinder. At least that's how I'd do it.

I always put a nut on, hacksaw and then when you remove the nut it cleans/clears the threads

TechMOGogy wrote:

undysworld wrote:

Rookie wrote:Does it rattle at all with those pins i would love to do that to mine just dont how tight it is cuold u post more pics and how you did the custom work thanks.

Didja look it up? https://www.mcmaster.com/#6610k35/=17z8ac5 It seems pretty self-explanatory. Looks as if it would tighten up just like a regular bolt - as tight as you prefer.

I'd assume that shortening the threaded rod could be accomplished either by a hacksaw or a grinder. At least that's how I'd do it.

I always put a nut on, hacksaw and then when you remove the nut it cleans/clears the threads

Good advice! Mine should be in this week so I will do the 'nut job' for sure.

How about using the M6 thread version instead? It is available with shorter thread length so no cutting required. Would also be the same thread size as the side rails so same tool required.

The doors have M8 weld nuts for the 2 main bolts, so you would need to use M8 studs. Just cut the forward studs to about 1/4" total.

Cut the sheet-metal out around the door handles so they stay with the bottom half when you remove the tops.

Cut the sheet-metal out around the door handles so they stay with the bottom half when you remove the tops.

I didn't like this method, it takes the strength out of the lower edge of the door tops. I re-attached the pull handles to the door top with "tee" nuts; the handle is removed with the top (With out the top, the door is easy to close). The tee nuts are very thin (<1mm thick) so they don't interfere with the reassembly of the top. I further padded the bottom edge of the door top with "camper tape" to seal the gap when the top is installed, and prevents the tee nut from wearing against the top edge of the lower door half.

Jimm391730 wrote:

Cut the sheet-metal out around the door handles so they stay with the bottom half when you remove the tops.

I didn't like this method, it takes the strength out of the lower edge of the door tops. I re-attached the pull handles to the door top with "tee" nuts; the handle is removed with the top (With out the top, the door is easy to close). The tee nuts are very thin (<1mm thick) so they don't interfere with the reassembly of the top. I further padded the bottom edge of the door top with "camper tape" to seal the gap when the top is installed, and prevents the tee nut from wearing against the top edge of the lower door half.

I did this as well - I believe it is the David Dunn method
Either way the tooless idea still works