Engine wanted
Engine wanted
Does anyone have a decent condition B30 sitting around as a paperweight? I am trying to source one for a project truck. Just needs to be rebuildable, no accessories etc needed. Just block and head pretty much.
Re: Engine wanted
I have a b30 out of a c304. Its got fuel injection on it. I also have a transmission and possibly transfer case
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- Posts: 364
- Joined: Sun May 30, 2004 2:16 pm
- Location: Sheridan, Oregon
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Re: Engine wanted
Tmoney,
Could you post a few photos of the FI system used on your C304 B30 engine? Shortly after taking delivery of my first TGB11 in 2004, I secured an intake manifold from a Volvo 164E/B30E engine. My measurements showed the aluminum intake with throttle body would not fit in an undisturbed TGB engine bay. If your set-up is that very same system, then I humbly stand corrected.
Take care.
Jim Molloy
Waldersee Farm
Sheridan, Oregon
http://www.northwestmogfest.com
Could you post a few photos of the FI system used on your C304 B30 engine? Shortly after taking delivery of my first TGB11 in 2004, I secured an intake manifold from a Volvo 164E/B30E engine. My measurements showed the aluminum intake with throttle body would not fit in an undisturbed TGB engine bay. If your set-up is that very same system, then I humbly stand corrected.
Take care.
Jim Molloy
Waldersee Farm
Sheridan, Oregon
http://www.northwestmogfest.com
Re: Engine wanted
I’m moving toward the Cummins R2.8 swap now. To far along to turn back now.
Re: Engine wanted
Sorry I just now saw this Dokatd! Would love to see more of your 2.8 swap candidate!
Re: Engine wanted
Engine loaded in airplane. Was delivered today from Colorado.
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- Joined: Mon Aug 13, 2018 3:21 pm
Re: Engine wanted
I was originally looking at the R2.8 for diesel or the LQ9 for petrol mated to a NV4500 and the LT230. I've done the measurements and both fit the short drivetrain requirement. Please do post progress pics!!
- GadgetPhreak
- Posts: 294
- Joined: Wed Jan 27, 2016 12:14 pm
- Location: Redmond, WA
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Re: Engine wanted
I am just finishing up putting the R2.8 in my FJ-40 with part of the goal being to help inform the viability of using it in my Pinz.
I will be following your progress as well
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I will be following your progress as well
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King County Search & Rescue | Regional Special Vehicles Unit
1972 710M - Building up for SAR use
Follow my build, learn more, or contact me: http://www.sarpinz.com
1972 710M - Building up for SAR use
Follow my build, learn more, or contact me: http://www.sarpinz.com
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- Posts: 42
- Joined: Mon Aug 13, 2018 3:21 pm
Re: Engine wanted
One consideration with swapping to the R2.8 is that you will more than likely need to switch to 12v since your alternator options with this engine (as of right now) are only 12v. I contacted many alternator shops about the feasibility of rebuilding one of these alternators as a 24v unit and received a resounding NO. I'd prefer to have a 24v core and feed 12v to the ecu and other systems that required it. Just food for thought.
Re: Engine wanted
Old engine is out. I can confirm the stock engine comes out through the bottom.
- VinceAtReal4x4s
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Re: Engine wanted
I'd be more worried about feeding 12v to an engine management system from a convertor. I haven't seen a convertor that I'd trust to keep my engine alive. It would be a big worry for me to add on. I guess you could carry a spare if really needed but that's yet another thing.
Moving to 12v isn't that hard after your wipers and blower motor are swapped out. Bulbs and horns are easy. Gauges should probably be swapped out for something more modern anyway, esp. after all that work, and you'd need to add or something for engine info regardless. What am I forgetting...
Moving to 12v isn't that hard after your wipers and blower motor are swapped out. Bulbs and horns are easy. Gauges should probably be swapped out for something more modern anyway, esp. after all that work, and you'd need to add or something for engine info regardless. What am I forgetting...
"For those who risk, life has a flavor the protected shall never enjoy"
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Re: Engine wanted
There is fundamentally nothing wrong using a DCDC converter to run any electronic device
inc. a ECU. That said there is a lot of complete crap on the market, and some subtle points
one needs to know ahead of time for proper selection and operation.
One fine point is 12V is a generic term. When one says a 12V system in a vehicle it's really
13.3V or higher (while running) depending upon the battery type and alternator. Converters
specify a 12V output, which may actually be EXACTLY +12.00000V and no higher, some say
12V and are actually 13.8V or 12.5V etc etc etc. So you really have to know your load
requirements and the true spec on the converter to match things up right. If you don't, you
may indeed have problems. Know the Input voltage requirements for the ECU, Radios or any
devices you want to connect to a converter. If the ECU minimum input voltage is 12.0V then
a converter with exactly 12.0V output will be marginal or simply fail. The other important
parameter is the converters input cut-off voltage, which is the minimum input voltage below
which the converters output will either drop or go unregulated. With a 24V input you really
want to pick a converter that will operate within spec with an input voltage ~18V. Otherwise
you may find yourself you can't start when the batteries are low while cranking.
So know the requirements, pick a high quality supplier, run your load no higher than 80% of the
ratted output current, pick convection cooled with no fan -- you'll be fine.
Devil is always in the details
inc. a ECU. That said there is a lot of complete crap on the market, and some subtle points
one needs to know ahead of time for proper selection and operation.
One fine point is 12V is a generic term. When one says a 12V system in a vehicle it's really
13.3V or higher (while running) depending upon the battery type and alternator. Converters
specify a 12V output, which may actually be EXACTLY +12.00000V and no higher, some say
12V and are actually 13.8V or 12.5V etc etc etc. So you really have to know your load
requirements and the true spec on the converter to match things up right. If you don't, you
may indeed have problems. Know the Input voltage requirements for the ECU, Radios or any
devices you want to connect to a converter. If the ECU minimum input voltage is 12.0V then
a converter with exactly 12.0V output will be marginal or simply fail. The other important
parameter is the converters input cut-off voltage, which is the minimum input voltage below
which the converters output will either drop or go unregulated. With a 24V input you really
want to pick a converter that will operate within spec with an input voltage ~18V. Otherwise
you may find yourself you can't start when the batteries are low while cranking.
So know the requirements, pick a high quality supplier, run your load no higher than 80% of the
ratted output current, pick convection cooled with no fan -- you'll be fine.
Devil is always in the details
Puller: 71' 710K 2.7L EFI aka Mozo
Follower: Sankey MK 3, 3/4 Tonne
Rescue Pinz: 73' 712MK
Driver: Ron // KO0Q
Follower: Sankey MK 3, 3/4 Tonne
Rescue Pinz: 73' 712MK
Driver: Ron // KO0Q
Re: Engine wanted
I use big Cooper Bussman converters/isolators designed for military use. They are 100A and about as rugged as a cockroach. 24 to 12v is all about using the right products and realizing money spent now save time and money spent later.
Re: Engine wanted
It’s in the hole now. Lots of work ahead, but it’s seemingly plausible that it will work.
- GadgetPhreak
- Posts: 294
- Joined: Wed Jan 27, 2016 12:14 pm
- Location: Redmond, WA
- Contact:
Re: Engine wanted
So. Much. Awesome.
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King County Search & Rescue | Regional Special Vehicles Unit
1972 710M - Building up for SAR use
Follow my build, learn more, or contact me: http://www.sarpinz.com
1972 710M - Building up for SAR use
Follow my build, learn more, or contact me: http://www.sarpinz.com