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Engine wanted

Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2018 11:21 am
by dokatd
Does anyone have a decent condition B30 sitting around as a paperweight? I am trying to source one for a project truck. Just needs to be rebuildable, no accessories etc needed. Just block and head pretty much.

Re: Engine wanted

Posted: Wed Dec 19, 2018 11:46 pm
by tmoney
I have a b30 out of a c304. Its got fuel injection on it. I also have a transmission and possibly transfer case

Re: Engine wanted

Posted: Fri Dec 21, 2018 7:19 pm
by Jim Molloy
Tmoney,
Could you post a few photos of the FI system used on your C304 B30 engine? Shortly after taking delivery of my first TGB11 in 2004, I secured an intake manifold from a Volvo 164E/B30E engine. My measurements showed the aluminum intake with throttle body would not fit in an undisturbed TGB engine bay. If your set-up is that very same system, then I humbly stand corrected.
Take care.

Jim Molloy
Waldersee Farm
Sheridan, Oregon
http://www.northwestmogfest.com

Re: Engine wanted

Posted: Sun Dec 23, 2018 10:53 pm
by dokatd
I’m moving toward the Cummins R2.8 swap now. To far along to turn back now.

Re: Engine wanted

Posted: Thu Jan 03, 2019 7:04 pm
by tmoney
Sorry I just now saw this Dokatd! Would love to see more of your 2.8 swap candidate!

Re: Engine wanted

Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2019 4:26 pm
by dokatd
Engine loaded in airplane. Was delivered today from Colorado. Image

Re: Engine wanted

Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2019 3:48 pm
by brandonium
I was originally looking at the R2.8 for diesel or the LQ9 for petrol mated to a NV4500 and the LT230. I've done the measurements and both fit the short drivetrain requirement. Please do post progress pics!!

Re: Engine wanted

Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2019 7:51 pm
by GadgetPhreak
I am just finishing up putting the R2.8 in my FJ-40 with part of the goal being to help inform the viability of using it in my Pinz.

I will be following your progress as well Image

Image

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Re: Engine wanted

Posted: Fri Jan 25, 2019 9:33 am
by brandonium
One consideration with swapping to the R2.8 is that you will more than likely need to switch to 12v since your alternator options with this engine (as of right now) are only 12v. I contacted many alternator shops about the feasibility of rebuilding one of these alternators as a 24v unit and received a resounding NO. I'd prefer to have a 24v core and feed 12v to the ecu and other systems that required it. Just food for thought.

Re: Engine wanted

Posted: Wed Jan 30, 2019 7:30 pm
by dokatd
Image

Old engine is out. I can confirm the stock engine comes out through the bottom.

Re: Engine wanted

Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2019 3:00 am
by VinceAtReal4x4s
I'd be more worried about feeding 12v to an engine management system from a convertor. I haven't seen a convertor that I'd trust to keep my engine alive. It would be a big worry for me to add on. I guess you could carry a spare if really needed but that's yet another thing.

Moving to 12v isn't that hard after your wipers and blower motor are swapped out. Bulbs and horns are easy. Gauges should probably be swapped out for something more modern anyway, esp. after all that work, and you'd need to add or something for engine info regardless. What am I forgetting...

Re: Engine wanted

Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2019 11:39 am
by rmel
There is fundamentally nothing wrong using a DCDC converter to run any electronic device
inc. a ECU. That said there is a lot of complete crap on the market, and some subtle points
one needs to know ahead of time for proper selection and operation.

One fine point is 12V is a generic term. When one says a 12V system in a vehicle it's really
13.3V or higher (while running) depending upon the battery type and alternator. Converters
specify a 12V output, which may actually be EXACTLY +12.00000V and no higher, some say
12V and are actually 13.8V or 12.5V etc etc etc. So you really have to know your load
requirements and the true spec on the converter to match things up right. If you don't, you
may indeed have problems. Know the Input voltage requirements for the ECU, Radios or any
devices you want to connect to a converter. If the ECU minimum input voltage is 12.0V then
a converter with exactly 12.0V output will be marginal or simply fail. The other important
parameter is the converters input cut-off voltage, which is the minimum input voltage below
which the converters output will either drop or go unregulated. With a 24V input you really
want to pick a converter that will operate within spec with an input voltage ~18V. Otherwise
you may find yourself you can't start when the batteries are low while cranking.

So know the requirements, pick a high quality supplier, run your load no higher than 80% of the
ratted output current, pick convection cooled with no fan -- you'll be fine.

Devil is always in the details :wink:

Re: Engine wanted

Posted: Fri Feb 01, 2019 8:11 am
by dokatd
I use big Cooper Bussman converters/isolators designed for military use. They are 100A and about as rugged as a cockroach. 24 to 12v is all about using the right products and realizing money spent now save time and money spent later.

Re: Engine wanted

Posted: Sat Feb 02, 2019 6:34 pm
by dokatd
It’s in the hole now. Lots of work ahead, but it’s seemingly plausible that it will work.
Image

Re: Engine wanted

Posted: Sat Feb 02, 2019 11:11 pm
by GadgetPhreak
So. Much. Awesome.


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