THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

So I just got my aluzinc TGB 11 and I'm trying to get it sorted out. Couple questions:

- Odometer seems frozen - speedometer works but bounces. Is there any way to unfreeze the odometer or what is the recommendation to keep up on fluid changes other than visual inspection?

- Charge light comes on at idle. Off idle it goes off. Is this normal? Haven't had a chance to hook up a multimeter to the batteries to see what charge output its at idle

- Being that I am based in the southern US, would it makes sense for me to try and remove the complicated (and in my case tattered) warm air intake system with the dual airboxes and thermostat door.

- I noticed when checking the portal oil levels that the vacuum nipple going into the brake backing plate is missing on the rear axle. I'm not sure what this is for, but is there a part number for those nipples?

- is it possible to disable automatic front axle engagement in low range? I live on a steep drive and like to use low range to maneuver but dont want driveline binding on the pavement.

Thanks in advance - everyone has been so helpful on this forum and I look forward to being able to contribute!

Well I’m going to cross the charge light off my list as that hasn’t recurred. I think the truck may have just not been warmed up or was idling low.

The charge light is pretty normal at low idle.

The odo's all have issues it seems. You can send it to the guys in North Hollywood for a full fix-up and rebuild. Cant recall the shop name. There's been posts on fixing them.

Did you mean the salve cyl bleeder? (nipple) Remove it and take it to a parts store and see if they can match it. Try NAPA first or a Brit/Euro parts store.

I'd probably remove the cold air set-up but then you may sell it next year and the next owner will live in Montana and hate you for it.

You could technically disable the front axle switch but I'd be careful not to lose track of the mod. and make it real obvious what the correction is to get back to stock, like labeling a switch and keeping the wiring simple to put back or whatever.

Thanks Vince! I don’t think its a bleeder nipple. This is vacuum nipple, about 1/4” long and thin. There’s one on the backside of each backing plate with a vacuum line leading to it. Haven’t traced the vac lines...

OH! Is it the vent nipple for the portal box???

For Gauge repairs and custom builds.

Talk to Shannon at https://redlinegaugeworks.com/

He has lots of experience with just about any Gauge you would
toss at him and a nice chap to work with.

It is a breather to equalize the pressure in the axle to prevent water from being sucked in through seals when the warm axle cools down suddenly when immersed in water.
Tjerk

Tjerk wrote: ↑Sat Mar 06, 2021 9:15 am It is a breather to equalize the pressure in the axle to prevent water from being sucked in through seals when the warm axle cools down suddenly when immersed in water.
Tjerk

Well I guess I'll keep it out of water until I fix it

To deactivate the automatic all-wheel drive, the 4 cables on the transfer case must be loosened. The black / white cables must be connected. Isolate the other two black cables, they are not connected anywhere. then you can continue to use the all-wheel switch in the dashboard and the automatic connection with reduction is deactivated.