I have recently purchased a '75 C303 w/B30 engine, Dual Strombergs & 24volt electrical sys. The vehicle starts & runs well but suffers from two immediate problems; 1. A very hard pull to the right when brakeing 2. The entire vehicle stinks from the exhaust which smokes (white) during deceleration and smells (rich?lean?) at idle but doesent really smoke. I plan to give the entire vehicle the once over, tune it up and service the brakes. I have a fair amount of experience w/mechanics particularly late '70 - early '90s Volvo 240 series w/fuel injected 4cyl motors and '70s - 80s Jeeps but I've never quite seen anything like this vehicle an am seeking input from those w/hands on experience.
My initial two phase plan is to;
1. Service brakes by checking & minimally turn drums and clean/service/replace cylinders & linings (research says Land Rover parts workand are available).
2. Tune up engine (steam clean & replace valve cover gasket as entire engine is coated w/oil which may be contributing to stink). I have re-searched engine mods and swaps on line & am partial to keeping the Volvo B30 but not enamored w/mechanical distributor points and/or dealing w/24 volt system (which in some circles is heresy). I would like to reliably and economically drive this vehicle and not modify w/unavailable or problem parts.
Re: engine mods has anyone got experience w/converting to Volvo fuel injection? (ie. a fuel injected 160 series or at least a electronic ignition (123 ignition makes a 12volt direct replacement) How about conversion to 12 volts through out vehicle? I'm also interested in info on cylinder head swaps/mods should the original cylinder head really be changed out due to fuel issues? if so what is better to swap w/a 164 head vehicle or rebuild w/new specs. seals & guides.
A final question, is the 97octane requirement/rating a direct corelation to U.S. octane (R+M/2)
Any feedback or info/links would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Mike
Volvo C303 B30 engine modifications
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brickdriver
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lindenengineering
- Posts: 715
- Joined: Sat Apr 17, 2004 6:14 pm
- Location: Golden Colorado USA
- Contact:
Mike
I have some comments concerning your Volvo.
The pulling to one side most certainly will be due to two problems either siezed brakes or contaminated linings due to oil seal failures.
The wheel cylinders & shoes are from series 2a LWB landrover. The drums are Volvo captive parts. Smoke on the overrun is probably worn valves/stems or seals. The heads do not have hardened seats in them so we always insert these when doing a head job.
Some engines had a Bosch diz a la Unimog 404, you can insert a Petronix conversion to dump the contact breakers. The other Volvo style Bosch diz uses a Petronix from a Beemer I am told.
For info the c303 engine has the eight bolt crank and up sized crankshaft as you would find in a 1975 up Volvo 164 series sedan with FI; The only principal difference is the head (having injector ports).
We have converted a c304 to FI using a late model take out engine from a 164, the unit punched out 202 HP I am told. Whatever the HP, the unit was a a stormer to drive, and if it didn't have a pin on the speedo needle I am sure it would have gone around again!
The FIE 164 engine has a smog pump and vacuum booster run off the cam where the carby fuel pump is currently installed. In the C series you cannot get room for the smog pump so you will have to use an electric hair dryer style pumping unit from a Landrover Disco 2 or 2000 Corvette.
Of course you don't have to have any smog kit on it at all, but think of the enviroment, we did, when we installed the conversion. The smog kit on this year of car is a bit of a joke in any case, since it pumps out in FI form the same as the carbied engine. It's just that the air from the smog pump drops the CO significantly on a smog tester. In short, it dilutes the exhaust crap with lots of air!
You will have to convert to 12volts for the conversion if you want reliability since the engine management system (for what it's worth) is running on 12v input. With the take out engine you can "enjoy" the standard Bosch electronic ignition providing you salvage the whole lot. For that reason I suggest you buy a whole good running Volvo 164 to cannoblize the parts off. Not for the feint hearted,the conversion has its merit.
Dennis
Lindenengineering.com
I have some comments concerning your Volvo.
The pulling to one side most certainly will be due to two problems either siezed brakes or contaminated linings due to oil seal failures.
The wheel cylinders & shoes are from series 2a LWB landrover. The drums are Volvo captive parts. Smoke on the overrun is probably worn valves/stems or seals. The heads do not have hardened seats in them so we always insert these when doing a head job.
Some engines had a Bosch diz a la Unimog 404, you can insert a Petronix conversion to dump the contact breakers. The other Volvo style Bosch diz uses a Petronix from a Beemer I am told.
For info the c303 engine has the eight bolt crank and up sized crankshaft as you would find in a 1975 up Volvo 164 series sedan with FI; The only principal difference is the head (having injector ports).
We have converted a c304 to FI using a late model take out engine from a 164, the unit punched out 202 HP I am told. Whatever the HP, the unit was a a stormer to drive, and if it didn't have a pin on the speedo needle I am sure it would have gone around again!
The FIE 164 engine has a smog pump and vacuum booster run off the cam where the carby fuel pump is currently installed. In the C series you cannot get room for the smog pump so you will have to use an electric hair dryer style pumping unit from a Landrover Disco 2 or 2000 Corvette.
Of course you don't have to have any smog kit on it at all, but think of the enviroment, we did, when we installed the conversion. The smog kit on this year of car is a bit of a joke in any case, since it pumps out in FI form the same as the carbied engine. It's just that the air from the smog pump drops the CO significantly on a smog tester. In short, it dilutes the exhaust crap with lots of air!
You will have to convert to 12volts for the conversion if you want reliability since the engine management system (for what it's worth) is running on 12v input. With the take out engine you can "enjoy" the standard Bosch electronic ignition providing you salvage the whole lot. For that reason I suggest you buy a whole good running Volvo 164 to cannoblize the parts off. Not for the feint hearted,the conversion has its merit.
Dennis
Lindenengineering.com
OOOps no customer bashing now
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Jim Molloy
- Posts: 364
- Joined: Sun May 30, 2004 2:16 pm
- Location: Sheridan, Oregon
- Contact:
Mike,
Welcome to wonderful world of Volvo C-series ownership. Congratulations!
Going throught the brake system thoroughly is a wise move.
As far as the smoking exhaust on deceleration, I have heard one very involved explanation that requires strategic placement of one way check valves. In my experience, I think I have found a slution to the problem at least with my truck. What I found was that there was motor oil pooling in the bottom of the air claner box. The oil comes from the valve cover vent. During extremely fast deceleratation, the layer of oil is thrown forward and enters into the front carb. From there it is sucked through creating the clouds of white smoke. The engine does not stall as the rear three clnders are still clean and functional. The cure is to wipe out the layer of oil every so often. The cure would be to create some type of oil trap between the valve cover vent and the air cleaner box.
As far as the octane issue goes, I have been told the octane rating on the filler door is more akin to 94 octane in the US. Regardless, octane booster and lead substitute may be warranted unless you have hardened exhaust valve seats installed.
Hope this helps.
Jim Molloy
Waldersee Farm
http://www.northwestmogfest.com
http://www.volvo4x4.com
Welcome to wonderful world of Volvo C-series ownership. Congratulations!
Going throught the brake system thoroughly is a wise move.
As far as the smoking exhaust on deceleration, I have heard one very involved explanation that requires strategic placement of one way check valves. In my experience, I think I have found a slution to the problem at least with my truck. What I found was that there was motor oil pooling in the bottom of the air claner box. The oil comes from the valve cover vent. During extremely fast deceleratation, the layer of oil is thrown forward and enters into the front carb. From there it is sucked through creating the clouds of white smoke. The engine does not stall as the rear three clnders are still clean and functional. The cure is to wipe out the layer of oil every so often. The cure would be to create some type of oil trap between the valve cover vent and the air cleaner box.
As far as the octane issue goes, I have been told the octane rating on the filler door is more akin to 94 octane in the US. Regardless, octane booster and lead substitute may be warranted unless you have hardened exhaust valve seats installed.
Hope this helps.
Jim Molloy
Waldersee Farm
http://www.northwestmogfest.com
http://www.volvo4x4.com
Hi Mike,
You could have an internal leak in one of your brake remote vacuum servos.
This would let brake fluid be burned in the engine while decelarating.
Brake fluid level getting down while no trace of leak is found
around the truck is an indication of this.
The smell is an indication as well.
Good luck !
You could have an internal leak in one of your brake remote vacuum servos.
This would let brake fluid be burned in the engine while decelarating.
Brake fluid level getting down while no trace of leak is found
around the truck is an indication of this.
The smell is an indication as well.
Good luck !
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lindenengineering
- Posts: 715
- Joined: Sat Apr 17, 2004 6:14 pm
- Location: Golden Colorado USA
- Contact:
Bernard
Looks like I have a C303 that came in to the shop with the servo leaking as you mentioned in your last post on this subject.
We have been told to hurry up and fix it so that it can go for sale.(probably E bay unless I can find a soul with some money!)
Glad you did the research on the M/Cyl kits.
Dennis
Linden Engineering Inc
Looks like I have a C303 that came in to the shop with the servo leaking as you mentioned in your last post on this subject.
We have been told to hurry up and fix it so that it can go for sale.(probably E bay unless I can find a soul with some money!)
Glad you did the research on the M/Cyl kits.
Dennis
Linden Engineering Inc
OOOps no customer bashing now
Does the valve cover need that vacuum? Could a basic breather be in order? I am new to this and I don't know what experience carries over, so correct me if I am wrong.Jim Molloy wrote:Mike,
As far as the smoking exhaust on deceleration, I have heard one very involved explanation that requires strategic placement of one way check valves. In my experience, I think I have found a slution to the problem at least with my truck. What I found was that there was motor oil pooling in the bottom of the air claner box. The oil comes from the valve cover vent. During extremely fast deceleratation, the layer of oil is thrown forward and enters into the front carb. From there it is sucked through creating the clouds of white smoke. The engine does not stall as the rear three clnders are still clean and functional. The cure is to wipe out the layer of oil every so often. The cure would be to create some type of oil trap between the valve cover vent and the air cleaner box.
p.s. my experience is minor in an M20 325IS but mostly w/ the 22r series Toyota motors and some VZ's, so this may be a whole new animal for me...
I want one of those, and those, and those...oh...I guess not
Dennis said "For info the c303 engine has the eight bolt crank and up sized crankshaft as you would find in a 1975 up Volvo 164 series sedan with FI"
How far beyond '75 did Volvo use the B30 motor,and would these(being unleaded engines)have the hardened valve seats.
My truck has a bosch CIS system on it (added on in a previous life),I was thinking of finding a 164 with all original stuff and starting over. Perhaps I would be wasting time as I have yet to take it down the road very far,but it does not have that "edgy" response for off-road,kinda time delayed. I have a lot down my street with a few piles of dirt,that is the sum of my Volvo off road exp.
How far beyond '75 did Volvo use the B30 motor,and would these(being unleaded engines)have the hardened valve seats.
My truck has a bosch CIS system on it (added on in a previous life),I was thinking of finding a 164 with all original stuff and starting over. Perhaps I would be wasting time as I have yet to take it down the road very far,but it does not have that "edgy" response for off-road,kinda time delayed. I have a lot down my street with a few piles of dirt,that is the sum of my Volvo off road exp.
Stock means no imagination!
Volvo TGB1317, .95% Morphed!
68 Haffy
Volvo TGB1317, .95% Morphed!
68 Haffy
-
trev0006
Thanks for all the great info.
lindenengineering wrote:Mike
I have some comments concerning your Volvo.
The pulling to one side most certainly will be due to two problems either siezed brakes or contaminated linings due to oil seal failures.
The wheel cylinders & shoes are from series 2a LWB landrover. The drums are Volvo captive parts. Smoke on the overrun is probably worn valves/stems or seals. The heads do not have hardened seats in them so we always insert these when doing a head job.
Some engines had a Bosch diz a la Unimog 404, you can insert a Petronix conversion to dump the contact breakers. The other Volvo style Bosch diz uses a Petronix from a Beemer I am told.
For info the c303 engine has the eight bolt crank and up sized crankshaft as you would find in a 1975 up Volvo 164 series sedan with FI; The only principal difference is the head (having injector ports).
We have converted a c304 to FI using a late model take out engine from a 164, the unit punched out 202 HP I am told. Whatever the HP, the unit was a a stormer to drive, and if it didn't have a pin on the speedo needle I am sure it would have gone around again!
The FIE 164 engine has a smog pump and vacuum booster run off the cam where the carby fuel pump is currently installed. In the C series you cannot get room for the smog pump so you will have to use an electric hair dryer style pumping unit from a Landrover Disco 2 or 2000 Corvette.
Of course you don't have to have any smog kit on it at all, but think of the enviroment, we did, when we installed the conversion. The smog kit on this year of cars is a bit of a joke in any case, since it pumps out in FI form the same as the carbied engine. It's just that the air from the smog pump drops the CO significantly on a smog tester. In short, it dilutes the exhaust crap with lots of air!
You will have to convert to 12volts for the conversion if you want reliability since the engine management system (for what it's worth) is running on 12v input. With the take out engine you can "enjoy" the standard Bosch electronic ignition tires providing you salvage the whole lot. For that reason I suggest you buy a whole good running Volvo 164 to cannoblize the parts off. Not for the feint hearted,the conversion has its merit.
Dennis
Lindenengineering.com