Front axle boot replacement

Jim LaGuardia · Post by **Jim LaGuardia** » Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:34 pm

Front axle boot replacement pictures coming soon.

Jim LaGuardia · Post by **Jim LaGuardia** » Mon Feb 22, 2010 8:58 pm

Note:Use caution as assemblies are very heavy

Driver side removal is simple, remove tire, drum, brake hoses, vac line, seperate drag link remove mounting bolts and pull out axle/knuckle assembly. Using suitable tools, remove and replace the boot, remember to transfer the axle guide bushing to the new boot, re assemble

Leaking driver side boot

Knuckle assembly

Bushing guide for axle

Drive boot till it seats with hammer and drift

Rubber lip sandwiches between knuckle and diff housing

View into axle housing on drivers side

Captain Crank · Post by **Captain Crank** » Tue Feb 23, 2010 8:32 am

Jim,
Thanks for posting that. Photos are so great for technical assistance.

I got a talk through from Dennis @ Linden Engineering on this too.
He suggested to pinch off the brake lines to prevent losing all the fluid which should make bleeding easier.
Also to engage diff lock when doing the passenger side.

Between his welcome advice the manuals and your pics, I think I got this sussed.

Now if it would just warm up a bit outside.........

John

lindenengineering · Post by **lindenengineering** » Thu Feb 25, 2010 10:12 pm

Hey John
Yes pinching off the brake lines makes bleeding the brakes SOOH much easier.
Also when re-inserting the sub axle assy and pinching down the flange to axle seal joint DO NOT be tempted to rotate the stub axle through the whole travel--it was never designed to do that!
If you do so it will pull or tear the boot to bits or at least dislodge the boot flange and it will leak!

Rather install the track and drag links then check for rotational freedom.
Have fun in the sun--need some--sick of snow!
Dennis

Jim LaGuardia · Post by **Jim LaGuardia** » Thu Feb 25, 2010 11:05 pm

I will post up the passenger side pics soon. I did use pinch pliers on the hoses, but later opted to drain entire system as all wheel cylinders are being replaced

I have a pressure bleeder so I'll just start at the master and then do the lines from furthest to nearest.

On a side note, Swedish is harder to translate than German

Captain Crank · Post by **Captain Crank** » Fri Feb 26, 2010 8:13 am

Jim LaGuardia wrote:I will post up the passenger side pics soon.

Can't wait!

On a side note, Swedish is harder to translate than German

Technical stuff especially.
Have you tried Norwegian? I think it is the worst.

lindenengineering wrote: Also when re-inserting the sub axle assy and pinching down the flange to axle seal joint
DO NOT be tempted to rotate the stub axle through the whole travel--it was never designed to do that!

Just to make sure....You are referring to the front and rear movement as if you were turning the steering wheel, right?

Cuz if something isn't suppose to be done, I will do it.

Have fun in the sun--need some--sick of snow! Amen to that Brutha!

Dennis

lindenengineering · Post by **lindenengineering** » Sat Feb 27, 2010 7:41 pm

Captain Crank
Try this sometime
اسان ، سهل ، بي زحمت ، اسوده ، ملا يم ، روان ، سليس
Which is farsi?
Dennis

جرب هذا في وقت ما

Captain Crank · Post by **Captain Crank** » Sat Feb 27, 2010 9:12 pm

Dennis,

I'm glad it wasn't directions to the buried treasure.

I got .......

Easy, easy, easy, calm, Mullah we’re, Rouen, comptez

Dennis

the scab, however, the time we

You win...... that's the worst.

Jim LaGuardia · Post by **Jim LaGuardia** » Thu Mar 11, 2010 2:42 am

Ok, here is the passenger side.
You have to engage the axle before removing it to prevent dropping the engagement sleeve. I opted to wrap a rag around the base of the actuator piston.

Here is a shot of the mechanism.