CLUTCH repair: How to remove clutch-unit for repair

Technical articles by owners, for owners.
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JNijst
Posts: 122
Joined: Sat Apr 07, 2007 12:58 pm
Location: Eindhoven, Netherlands
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CLUTCH repair: How to remove clutch-unit for repair

Post by JNijst » Thu Aug 17, 2017 4:29 pm

Gents,

This article is written for non-mechanics like myself with excess details to smooth over the information-gaps that seem unsurmountable at first and other panic-questions...
BTW when I write gearbox; I mean tranny - transmission

In my case I had left my Pinz in the garage for 6 months and the clutch-plate got stuck; I got the engine running, but could not shift into any gears.
Reason: the clutch-plate is 'stuck' / rusted onto either the flywheel or the pressure-plate. Probably through excess moisture in the air when parking the truck.
Look up the Internet how dry clutches work and where the flywheel is (on the crankshaft) and the pressure-plate (bolted on the flywheel), the clutch-plate is inbetween

If it is stuck lightly; With the engine OFF, put her in 1st gear, better in 4th gear as more power is exerted, and make sure there is plenty space ahead of the truck and then just start the truck. It will jerk forward as the startmotor just 'runs' the truck and almost always now the engine catches on and you drive the Pinz on the engine, push the clutch-pedal in several times and the clutch-plate might get loose and you can now shift gears. If not, then it is stuck hard...
Here are several posts on it:
http://www.real4x4forums.com/PinzgauerB ... 13&t=10780
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=8783&hilit=stuck+clutch
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=5902&p=43952&hilit ... tch#p43952

If it is stuck hard and driving over bumps and hard breaking (with clutch pushed in) does not help; you need remove the cardan-shaft, gear-box and clutch-bellhousing to get to the clutch-assembly and 'free' the clutch-plate from either the flywheel or the pressure-plate. It seemed a big job, but it is really simple and managed to do this by myself and my mechanical experience with cars was zero, I have never even taken a bicycle apart.

What you need is:
- One Clutch alignment tool (SAV: SAV2725 = $9.50 + postage) (I bought a plastic $6.50 GM-10 one (Ebay) and spent 30 min grinding it down so it would fit... Buy the real deal !)
- Ratched with metric 10, 13, 15, 17 and 19 size sockets and spanners that size.
- A 6 mm Allen-key
- A torque wrench, that measures as low as 20 Nm, you need 22-25 Nm, although I believe you can maybe judge the strength required
- 2 ft strong electrical wire
- One strong strap with rachet
- One regular jack, two is better and easier and need one less jack-stand...
- Two Jack-stands: the type where you adjust to a set height and the ratchet keeps it there (see photo)
- Several blocks of wood - prevent Pinz from rolling and 'match' differences in height when jacking up and down
- Plastic sheet (oil drips/spils) and something comfortable to lay on and a head support (big block of wood)
- Some small plastic trays (from take-away-chinese) to hold nuts for the different parts

Preparation:
- Park the Pinz where you can comfortably get at the underside of the truck.
- Apply the parking brake and put some wooden blocks behind the tires, you don't want it to go anywhere...
- Put gearbox in Free
- Lay down large plastic sheet and comfy mat (don't lay with your back on cold ground) and the tools and maybe lights for the dark spots
- Remove the gearbox-access-hatch-cover in the back of the truck

Execution:

DSCF1540.JPG
1 - First support the engine-oil-tray with a Jack-stand: Use a regular jack to lift the engine 1-2 mm max and then put a jack-stand under it with pieces of wood, so it fits tight
DSCF1540.JPG (169.76 KiB) Viewed 1129 times
Last edited by JNijst on Fri Aug 18, 2017 11:41 am, edited 3 times in total.
Pinz of rock - 710M / 1975 (Austrian Army)

JNijst
Posts: 122
Joined: Sat Apr 07, 2007 12:58 pm
Location: Eindhoven, Netherlands
Contact:

Re: CLUTCH stuck: Cannot shift into gears while engine runs.

Post by JNijst » Thu Aug 17, 2017 4:33 pm

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2 - Build a make-shift bridge to hold the gearbox later with the ratchable strap (Don't use a thin crossbar-beam like I did, but had nothing else... It needs to support 39 kg)
DSCF1482.JPG (171.85 KiB) Viewed 1126 times
Pinz of rock - 710M / 1975 (Austrian Army)

JNijst
Posts: 122
Joined: Sat Apr 07, 2007 12:58 pm
Location: Eindhoven, Netherlands
Contact:

Re: CLUTCH stuck: Cannot shift into gears while engine runs.

Post by JNijst » Thu Aug 17, 2017 4:35 pm

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3 - Wire the two ends of the cardan-shaft, so they cannot slide apart (some mark them, but with all that grease easily wipes off). They are balanced together and when they're apart: no telling of the correct position anymore (This is more fool-proof, like for me...)
DSCF1488.JPG (188.87 KiB) Viewed 1125 times
Pinz of rock - 710M / 1975 (Austrian Army)

JNijst
Posts: 122
Joined: Sat Apr 07, 2007 12:58 pm
Location: Eindhoven, Netherlands
Contact:

Re: CLUTCH stuck: Cannot shift into gears while engine runs.

Post by JNijst » Thu Aug 17, 2017 4:38 pm

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4 - Remove the nut (size 17) from the gear-shifting-rod-guide that connects to the weird two-pronged bit at the end of the thick tube
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5 - Remove the nut (size 19) that connects the gear-shifting-rod to the gear-selector-arm of the gearbox. Keep the ring under the nut together with the nut !!
DSCF1495.JPG (156.06 KiB) Viewed 1123 times
Pinz of rock - 710M / 1975 (Austrian Army)

JNijst
Posts: 122
Joined: Sat Apr 07, 2007 12:58 pm
Location: Eindhoven, Netherlands
Contact:

Re: CLUTCH repair: How to remove clutch-unit for repair

Post by JNijst » Fri Aug 18, 2017 7:35 am

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6 - Unscrew the 6 bolts and nuts (size 13) of the cardan-shaft at the gearbox end
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7 - Ensure that the wire, holding the cardan-shaft-parts together, is tied off somewhere above, so the cardan-shaft cannot fall all the way down.
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8 - If needed; pry the two apart, mine spilt a tablespoon or 2 oil with it, when the cardan-shaft suddenly parted...
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9 - Remove the 4 large (size 17) nuts from the bellhousing, two ON BOTTOM... (Ratchet with 17 socket is easier to use , but I just could 't find the 17 socket...
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10 - and two size 17 nuts ON TOP...
DSCF1511_c.jpg (122.71 KiB) Viewed 1099 times
Pinz of rock - 710M / 1975 (Austrian Army)

JNijst
Posts: 122
Joined: Sat Apr 07, 2007 12:58 pm
Location: Eindhoven, Netherlands
Contact:

Re: CLUTCH repair: How to remove clutch-unit for repair

Post by JNijst » Fri Aug 18, 2017 8:35 am

11.JPG
11 - Near the startmotor - top-right - remove ON TOP: one bolt (size 13) without nut and BELOW: one nut (size 13) with earth-strap. Needed a 6 Allen-Key to hold the bolt at the back
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12 - Remove the 2 nuts (size 10) of the breather-cap, then remove the breather cap itself
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13 - Push the thrust-bolt backwards and jerk the release-fork from it, mine went real easy
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14 - Remove the plug from the gearbox, not sure if every Pinz-version has one...
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15 - Remove the 4 bolts (size 13) from the gearbox-support
15.JPG (140.78 KiB) Viewed 1096 times
Pinz of rock - 710M / 1975 (Austrian Army)

JNijst
Posts: 122
Joined: Sat Apr 07, 2007 12:58 pm
Location: Eindhoven, Netherlands
Contact:

Re: CLUTCH repair: How to remove clutch-unit for repair

Post by JNijst » Fri Aug 18, 2017 10:32 am

16
16.JPG
16 - BEFORE you loosen the gearbox and bellhousing MAKE SURE you have it all supported in the strap and with a jack below it, so it cannot fall down. You now have to grab hold of the cardan-shaft -end of the gearbox and wriggle it up and down and pull backwards at the same time (Muscle-power needed)
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17.JPG
17 - Once loose; you cannot lower the gearbox as the gear-selector-arm gets stuck on the main beam, so you have to turn the unit sideways...
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18.JPG
18 - Once turned sideways, lower the unit
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19.JPG
19 - Support the unit with a jack, loosen the strap and have the jack assist its descent until the strap is tight. Support with jack and re-loosen the strap. Lower it with the jack, etc...
19.JPG (181.25 KiB) Viewed 1093 times
20.jpg
20 - Now the pressure clutch unit is visible. These 6 bolts (size 17) need to be undone
20.jpg (179.67 KiB) Viewed 1093 times
Pinz of rock - 710M / 1975 (Austrian Army)

JNijst
Posts: 122
Joined: Sat Apr 07, 2007 12:58 pm
Location: Eindhoven, Netherlands
Contact:

Re: CLUTCH repair: How to remove clutch-unit for repair

Post by JNijst » Fri Aug 18, 2017 11:02 am

21.JPG
Luckily ? my clutch-plate was stuck to the pressure-plate, so I could remove the whole unit instead of working under the truck.
IF the clutch-plate IS STUCK TO THE FLYWHEEL then use a piece of wood and hammer on its side to loosen it. MAKE SURE you have 1 or 2 bolts still threaded in to prevent it falling on the ground OR on your face...
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21_a.JPG
21-a IF the clutch-plate is stuck on the pressure-plate remove the unit, place it on its side and use a piece of wood against the sleeved tube and bang it loose... After sanding the clutch-plate a little, it clearly shows the 'rope-threads' that had swollen and stuck on the plate. The tiny white spots are steel wire threaded amongst it all in the plate
21_a.JPG (178.88 KiB) Viewed 1092 times
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22 - Without going into too much detail (huh ?), I just sanded all the exposed surfaces with 80 sand-paper. (Flywheel, pressure-plate and both sides of the clutch-plate) It seems that the 'rope' in the clutch-plate swelled from the moisture and got it stuck to the pressure-plate. The picture shows the sanded area from the pressure-plate. It looks the same as the flywheel. Sanded the clutch-plate slightly also, the remove any 'swollen' rope on the clutch-plate.
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23 - The clutch-alignment-tool did not fit and had to remove excess material to make it fit, next time I'll buy from SAV
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Attachments
24.JPG
24 - Put the alignment-tool in the clutch-plate-sleeve and insert both in the flywheel
24.JPG (185.88 KiB) Viewed 1092 times
Pinz of rock - 710M / 1975 (Austrian Army)

JNijst
Posts: 122
Joined: Sat Apr 07, 2007 12:58 pm
Location: Eindhoven, Netherlands
Contact:

Re: CLUTCH repair: How to remove clutch-unit for repair

Post by JNijst » Fri Aug 18, 2017 11:24 am

25.JPG
25 - Now you have to bolt the pressure-plate back on the flywheel. The manual says to use a torque-wrench and apply 22-25 Nm torque. Make sure the clutch-plate has not sagged if the alignment-tool fits too loosely. Even half a millimeter causes trouble aligning it all later. After all 6 nuts are in, remove the alignment tool !
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26 - Now is a good time to clean the bellhousing. METAL-shaving mean REAL trouble here !!. Not sure if this amount of grease is any good, as I am not sure where it leaked from...
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27 - Now you have to ratchet the gearbox back up. Remember to put it sideways. Ratchet it up, support with wood, loosen the strap, re-set the strap in the ratchet and ratchet it up again, until you can place a jack under it, then use that to jack it up etc...
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28 - When near the access-hatch the breather-hole will catch turn and wriggle it, it will come, moving it about...
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29 - Support the back with a jack and the bell-housing with the second jack-stand, you need to achieve the correct height to turn it and move it forward
29.JPG (187.44 KiB) Viewed 1089 times
Pinz of rock - 710M / 1975 (Austrian Army)

JNijst
Posts: 122
Joined: Sat Apr 07, 2007 12:58 pm
Location: Eindhoven, Netherlands
Contact:

Re: CLUTCH repair: How to remove clutch-unit for repair

Post by JNijst » Fri Aug 18, 2017 11:40 am

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30 - Align the height of the gearbox-support so it is at the same height as the Main-beam-support
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31.JPG
31 - Wriggle the whole gearbox-unit forward. Mine went further than this photo, but could not get the last cm in... (panic !!! had I aligned the clutch-plate properly ? do it all again ?) Next day I used 2 pieces of wood, one against the cardan-shaft-end of the gearbox and the other against the access-hatch and used a crow-bar and she just popped in...
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32 - Now you have to put a little grease on the thrust-bolt and press the release-fork on it, mine went easy. Then put the breather-cap back on...
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33 - You now need to put the nuts of the selector arm back on see step 4 & 5. Don't forget to put the ring with 19-nut back in on the selector-arm

34 - Now put the 4 bolts of the gearbox-support back. in Don't overtighten like I did, I am not sure about 2 bolts, they went soft. Best use a torque-wrench not sure about how many Nm to apply...

35 - After removing all and starting up the clutch, MAKE SURE there is plenty space ahead and behind the truck, just in case. At first the clutch will not give back-pressure until you put it into gear and let the clutch come up, after 1 or 2 times the pressure will be back

Good luck !!
Pinz of rock - 710M / 1975 (Austrian Army)

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