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Can anyone help?

I am still working on my Haflinger project. I didn't get an engine with mine and couldn't find a reasonable one so I am going with a Subaru/Robin unit. Brand new and warrantied for 5 years. I have an original clutch assembly that will be mounted to the drive shaft. Am I correct that the unit mounts to the original drive shaft with what looks like a stubby hollow bolt that goes into a threaded hole in the end of the drive shaft. The bolt also holds a needle bearing for the transmission shaft and is secured with a fold down tab type lock washer?

Thanks for your help.

Cheers, Clive

Which engine are you going for?? What HP? Prices should come down: http://www.dieselprogress.com/May-2016/ ... H5jVVMrKCg

That is unfortunate - the Subaru-Robbins engines were pretty good from what I hear. Fuji made the same decision about moving out of the micro-truck and micro-van segment as well when they discontinued the Subaru Sambar and just went over to relabeling a Daihatsu HiJet as the new Sambar - which is not anywhere as advanced of a platform.

I credit them with making a tough decision and not just relabeling junk chinese product and having the brand suffer a slow and painful death...

I got a good deal on an EH65 22hp.

interesting! Very curious to hear how it goes!

With all due respect you might want to reconsider that engine

While it is about the same capacity and power of early Haflinger engines, it max out at 22hp at about 3600rpm and you need an engine that will go out to around 4700 - 5000rpm or higher. Dependent on engine, the Haflingers develop 22hp at 4500rpm up to 27hp at 4800rpm. The Haflinger governor starts cutting in at about 4800rpm and operates up to just over 5000rpm. (I cruise at about 4000 - 4300rpm).

The problem with the Robin engine is that while it will pull really well it will run out of revs way before a realistic top speed and as such cruising will be slower or cruise at max revs.

Good luck with whatever you choose.

Garry

Back to the original question about the original clutch assembly...
I took a quick look at mine and am still not sure what your asking
Do you need to know how it mounts to the transmission DS or the engine side?
Dan

It is the engine side mount I am trying to sort out. Thanks Dan.

As for top speed. I did consider that and decided that 50- 60 kmph range would be fine. I plan to use it for trail use off road primarily. It will likely not get into top gear most days. A compact air cooled engine which requires minimum air flow, as it was designed for use as a stationary engine, with an integral alternator, starter, and a 1" drive-shaft was too good to pass. I considered small diesel but ruled it out due to the weight and lower revs still. A motorcycle engine without an integrated transmission is a rare find and while I preferred an airhead BMW they are quite expensive. Even the BMW was not designed to run flat out for very long. The Robin will run flat out all day under warranty no less. Ultimately I decided that for my purposes I would trade a little top end speed for reliability and availability.

Cheers, Clive

So yes your correct #4 - Fixing Screw M24 x1.5
#5 - Needle Bearing for clutch shaft
#16 - Lock Washer

Mine is still attached to the engine but I can take a picture of it tonight/tomorrow if needed since the engine is out.
Dan

Thanks Dan. A photo would be great!

63rover wrote:Thanks Dan. A photo would be great!

Just went and took a look
Motor is hard to get at currently with everything in storage
Give me a bit and I can get to it

I know the feeling only too well! I swear the stuff in my shop multiplies

Its very similar to a "Gland" nut for a VW air cooled engine.

What is the shaft like on the Subaru motor? You have a solid 1 inch shaft with the 3/8 keyway - correct?

Best option would be to machine a recess in the end of the shaft for the end of the transmission input shaft to go into it to provide support. I've done it on electric motors (using the motor to spin itself like it was on a lathe - but never with a gas motor - but I suppose it would be possible...

You'll also need a way to adapt the flywheel to the 1 inch shaft with a keyway slot in it - again - I've cut these slots by hand with a file a couple of times - not that hard just time consuming with a lot of trial fitting over and over.

That is the direction I am headed with the hole in the drive shaft threaded for the fixing nut. I have the added advantage of a machinist and full shop eager to help. Once the flywheel is fitted the engine mount will be fabricated by the same guy.