
1975 TGB 11 (24v) with stock alternator (external regulator in cab)
- Today, charge light came on during normal driving - started to flutter out at higher revs but was not staying out during normal driving (which is abnormal for my truck).
- When I got home, I checked the batteries - 24.98V there - no change in voltage when revving engine.
- Voltage went up slightly when engine was turned off, a hair over 25v
- Crawled under the truck, noticed the ground wire going from the alternator was frefloating - reattached to intake stud
- Restart truck, no apparent change in voltage when engine revving, charge light still on during most of RPM band
- Decide to remove alternator connections and clean up any dirt/corrosion.
- Larger center post on the heatsink-type part with 3 posts started spinning
- Removed that part and then removed the post, but noticed there is a wire bit from the center of the unit that was hooked to that post but now broken - not sure how it is supposed to connect.
- Reassembled that part, tried to have the little connector get contact with the center stud when tightened down
- With that unit back on the alternator and everything hooked up, I'm not getting charge lamp in "on" or when the truck is running
- Voltage still hanging around 24.98v at the batteries and no change related to RPM
So I think I have a compound issue in that either my voltage regulator is problematic, or the alternator itself is broken. AND I think I broke that little connector on the center stud of the heatsink unit - I'm not sure how it is supposed to connect... part diagrams not helpful.
Ultimately, I think I'm going to end up ordering a modern internally-regulated alternator but it would be nice to fix this unit... any thoughts on my predicament? If I switch to a modern alternator, can I still use the charge lamp system or do I need to wire up a voltmeter to the dash?
Thanks,
Phil