Roof rack

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moonracer
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Joined: Wed Apr 20, 2011 5:54 am

Roof rack

Post by moonracer »

Building a roof rack for 718K

- not decided yet about the AC; roof top unit (autoclima rt40, webasto or diffuser inside)
- hatch (Lewmar) pilot hatch or low profile one
- in the back two alu boxes

Any comments/ideas?
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Jimm391730
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Re: Roof rack

Post by Jimm391730 »

I don't think I'd need (or want) the rack to touch the TOP of the roof, only the edges. I'd want the side rails to be as high as the boxes so any branches would be deflected away/above the "normal" stuff up there. Plus, if you ever need to transport 20' long pieces of steel, wood, etc. you can do so over the top of the boxes and AC (you'd be surprised what you might end up needing to transport on it, eventually). This actually simplifies the design, too, and puts all the rack weight on the sides of the truck where it can be most easily handled instead of the top where weight is not as easily accommodated. Your needs may be different, so have at it!
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VinceAtReal4x4s
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Re: Roof rack

Post by VinceAtReal4x4s »

Do you really need the boxes with all the interior space that Pinz has? Or would having a couple of Pelican cases stored in the garage be better, when/if needed? Saves carrying around the weight/obstruction for no reason when not in use.
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David Dunn
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Re: Roof rack

Post by David Dunn »

The rack is too complicated or “busy”.
Use only supports on the outside edges and you only need 3 on each side (maybe 4 if you wanted to add a crossbar in front of the a/c).
All Ks, (710,712,716 and 718) have 3 rollbars incorporated into the top, behind each set of doors and at the rear of the vehicle. Typically the a/c is mounted behind the front roll bar, this will not leave you much room for the hatch in front of the middle roll bar though the 718 has 8” more room between the bars than a 712 . The cargo area is the same, the cab space is longer in the TDs.

I’d keep all the cross bars straight and run longitudinal bars where the hatch will be .
Also use removable boxes as Vince said, you’ll be surprised by how high you’ll need to make the rack to clear the crown of the roof and the 2 longitudinal roof supports.

You’ll need to get dimensions of the components that you’re going to use. Your rack will be around 5' wide and 10 to 11' max long. Make sure you can get what you want into that footprint
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moonracer
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Re: Roof rack

Post by moonracer »

All good comments; thank you!

The original roof rack bends over the roof; this follows the same design principal, on the drawing it might be a bit too much.
The cross bars have 10mm space to the actual roof, trying to create a very low profile.
All the side pods will be bolted using internal pods as well for strength and using the main three roller bars.
But to distribute any weight I'm planning to add two more side pods with crossbars in between, which as pointed out might not be necessary.
The two boxes are custom Alu boxes, they are removable and being used to store chairs, table and awning.
Forgot about the Pelican cases, need to look if they have the required size.

We are planning on a very long trip and then space becomes very limited, even in a 6x6 Pinzgauer.
For the round tubes I'm using 30mm diameter 3mm thick; the square ones are 30mm * 30mm also 3mm thick.

My wife and daughter like to photograph and film, therefore the railing around the hatch for security and to be able to mount equipment.

The AC, if it is a roof top (will be decided on Monday) it will be mounted just on top of front roll bar with the diffuser just right behind roll bar.
I'd prefer no roof top AC, then roof rack becomes certainly less busy.
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TechMOGogy
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Re: Roof rack

Post by TechMOGogy »

If you found a hatch that was removable (or sliding) vs flip, it would eliminate such a large empty area in your rack design
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