Fifth gear jump out

Denis · Post by **Denis** » Sun Dec 17, 2006 1:06 pm

I went for a ride yesterday and the fifth gear jumped out.

I just put it back in and everythink was fine for awhile. And it jumped out a second time...

When i shifted for the rest of the trip i made sure in was in all the way and did not had anymore trouble with it.

Is their an adjustment or it means that the fifth gear is going bye bye

Thanks for the help

Denis

Jim LaGuardia · Post by **Jim LaGuardia** » Sun Dec 17, 2006 2:20 pm

There are a few things to check, first see if the trans rear output flange is loose(wiggle up and down) if so replace the rear output bearing.
Next look at the forward fork pivots for leakage, if one is leaking it could be broken (somewhat common), if that is not it, then it needs to come out for teardown and inspection, or replacement.
Shift collars and mating teeth on the gear hub may be worn out

Gearbox repairs are my specialty

PinzEOD · Post by **PinzEOD** » Sun Dec 17, 2006 4:03 pm

Mine did that to me for just a very little while...right after I put in some new heater duct hose. The shifter was pushing right against it when in 5th gear...a bit of judicious re-arranging of the hose and no more problems.

lindenengineering · Post by **lindenengineering** » Sun Dec 17, 2006 6:05 pm

Guys
I chirped on about this only a few weeks ago on the need to correctly fill the gearbox. (transmission if you must call it that!)

We fix our fare share of these units, I have three on the bench at the moment each one was suffering 5th gear jump due to excessive wear.

When the box is run low on oil, the forward needle bearing comes under distress supporting the forward end of the mainshaft.
The input (clutch spigot shaft) is supported by this same small roller and the external radial ball bearing. This causes the shaft to "orbit" especially when the clutch is depressed. Over a period of time that condition wears the synchro hub and sliding dog eventually resulting in "jump out".
The shaft is expensive to replace so we have the "nose" re-metaled to reduce re-work costs.

Denis. If the advise given by Jim on external influences do not fix the problem then it may be time to open it up.
Dennis
Amities et bonne Noel)

M Wehrman · Post by **M Wehrman** » Sun Dec 17, 2006 8:10 pm

In the earlier years of Subaru's we had issues with popping out of gear. I especially liked the bungee repair. Customers would attach a bungee cord to the gear shift to hold it in gear,usually it was the freeway flyers that did this. I've seen plastic cups with rubber bands attached to achieve the same thing. The cups fit nicely over the gear sift lever!!
Let your budget be your guide!

Mark

lindenengineering · Post by **lindenengineering** » Sun Dec 17, 2006 9:11 pm

Let your budget be your guide is ok.
However the maxim 'pay me now or pay me later" rings true as well.

I distinctively remember a past customer who had a turn buckle on his Hi/Lo shifter for a considerable time to avoid the cost of repair intervention.

One day 1300 mls from base he blew out the t/case and incurred a tow bill, new T/case and all the labor to effect the repair. I bet his credit card withered a bit when all that little lot got paid!

Doing a "post mortem" the thrust on the shift fork was sufficient over time to cause detachment of those parts and ingestion caused a major conflagration with all the contingent costs.
Dennis

Denis · Post by **Denis** » Mon Dec 18, 2006 4:33 am

I guess, i'm in for some serious look on the tranny and even maybe some overall.

I guess this will be my Chrismass gift from Santa....

Thank you very much for all the info and i will let you know what i found later this week.

Happy Greating Seasons to all of you...

Joyeux Noël et Bonne Année

Denis

lindenengineering · Post by **lindenengineering** » Mon Dec 18, 2006 8:52 am

Denis
Just a thought.

When you are checking the exterior for shifter defects etc per Jim's recomendation, take at look at the top of the gearbox casing. (you will need to remove the cargo floor cover to do this effectively.)

You will see after removing dirt etc three (10mm approx) balls hammered into the case on the left in a line across the top casing face. These are spread out across the case length. The one closest to the bell housing is the one to look for. That ball is hammered approx flush with the top face into the case as I mentioned and in fact is applying a constant downward pressure on a spring that in turn is acting upon a plunger to give the shift its internal detent.
I have had one trans loose its ball and that caused the shifter to "kick" as you applied power, or went on the overrun. The result was gear jump out.

Just worth a look
Dennis

Denis · Post by **Denis** » Tue Dec 26, 2006 5:59 am

Checked everythink and haven't found anythink wrong.

The output bearing has a little play but when i say a little it is a little.

The plunger (the ones Dennis talked about) on the top off the tranny near the bell housing is fine too.

The oil level was even a bit high.

Their was that little adjusting rod near the shifter tower on the transmission that was a bit loose but that's it.

I changed the oil and their was nothing on the magnet of the plug (no metal) I put synthetic oil in it and everyhink looks fine.

I went for a long ride yesterday and it jumped out only once when it was cold. After that it went just right...

Is their any adjustement on those shifter rod or linkage ???
If i'm careful when i put fifth gear in it stays their.

Thanks for all the help

Denis

Denis · Post by **Denis** » Tue Dec 26, 2006 6:08 am

Sorry, ''think'' in this message means ''thing''

I guess you had it figured out.

This is the problem when you wright the day after...

Denis