Split-boot (actual users only - please)
Moderator: TechMOGogy
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- Location: Cerritos, CA
Split-boot (actual users only - please)
Hello
How long has anyone successfully run a split boot? I will be purchasing one as part of my trail emergency kit and I am curious how fast I need to get back to the original soild type. Does anyone have Steyr approved info on their split-boot?
Eric P
How long has anyone successfully run a split boot? I will be purchasing one as part of my trail emergency kit and I am curious how fast I need to get back to the original soild type. Does anyone have Steyr approved info on their split-boot?
Eric P
How would an ice-age end without global warming?
I've had one on for around 12+ months now, as I'm planning a major service to replace all the brake drums, front diff etc (and I will remove the axle assembly at the time and replace it with an original one piece unit) but work and play (4WD Trips etc) keep getting in the way, so my "no more than a month" temporary repair is still there.....and only because it's still fine and not leaking!
Peter
1974, 712 6X6 Pinzgauer
1983, 710-1.6 4X4 Pinzgauer
1997, 718 6X6 Pinzgauer (in pieces)
1971, 700 Haflinger
1974, 703 LWB Haflinger
2001, Range Rover
http://www.ozpinz.com
1974, 712 6X6 Pinzgauer
1983, 710-1.6 4X4 Pinzgauer
1997, 718 6X6 Pinzgauer (in pieces)
1971, 700 Haflinger
1974, 703 LWB Haflinger
2001, Range Rover
http://www.ozpinz.com
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- Posts: 1704
- Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2004 3:42 pm
- Location: San Bernardino Ca
- Contact:
Split Boots
I've had three of them for several years. The key is to install them correctly and be sure you leave plenty of strech capacity in the accordion by keeping the smaller inner ring close to the side of the larger outer ring. We do mostly mudding here and there is no rock climbing at all so they have held up fine. - Buzz
"It's as stupid and wonderful as owning a pet elephant."
1974 Pinzgauer 710M
1990 Puch G Wagon 230 GE
1974 Pinzgauer 710M
1990 Puch G Wagon 230 GE
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- Posts: 5
- Joined: Fri May 21, 2004 9:47 pm
- Location: Gainesville, GA
Split Boots
I have to agree with Buzz and Loyal. I have had one on the front right for over a year with some moderate four wheeling and a lot of highway. It still looks like the day I installed it with no sign of getting brittle, cracking or splitting. The joint is still tight and does not leak.... yet. I must admit that I am keeping an eye on it though. I'm sure that as previously stated, Proper Installation is the key.
Tom C.
Tom C.
Tom Childers
1972 700 AP NA
Gainesville, GA
1972 700 AP NA
Gainesville, GA
split boot
The pinz had a split boot on the left rear when I bought it. Aparently a repair was done (where?) and it was the most expedient fix. Seems to be holding up well and I have no worries mate.
I should probably get one to keep as a spare in the event one of the originals goes.
Have only done rocky off road and desert sand, no rock crawling.
Cheers,
Morris
710M
I should probably get one to keep as a spare in the event one of the originals goes.
Have only done rocky off road and desert sand, no rock crawling.
Cheers,
Morris
710M
To be fair to the splits, the split joint was still in good shape the the boot in general seemed to be very flexable but you could see where something had hung up on them and just shredded them. I really think the useage has a lot to do with the life expectancy. I managed, not too long ago to put a 5" rip in the sidewall of one of my Trxus MT's. The guy at the tire shop could not believe the sidewall failed on a Trxus. Worse part is I am not even sure when it happened. One of the guys with me in another truck pointed it out on the trail at a stop.
Got to remember the original one piece only lasted a few months before I went split. I am now back to all one piece and have had no problems, but it has been less than a year on them, time will tell.
Got to remember the original one piece only lasted a few months before I went split. I am now back to all one piece and have had no problems, but it has been less than a year on them, time will tell.
Mike
I found a tear in the split boot. The boot was over three years old and when removed showed no signs of age or cracking. It was damaged on the top can't figure out how it got torn on top, anyway I replaced it with one of two I purchased on Ebay.
I bought these a while ago for trail spares. The small portion of the boot doesn't fit around the axel, it has a 3/8 gap no matter where it's adjusted to on the axel. Lesson learned you get what you pay for. These were not in factory packaging. I emailed the seller only as a heads up on his product, no reply. He still has over a hundred for sale.
Swifty in Illinois
I bought these a while ago for trail spares. The small portion of the boot doesn't fit around the axel, it has a 3/8 gap no matter where it's adjusted to on the axel. Lesson learned you get what you pay for. These were not in factory packaging. I emailed the seller only as a heads up on his product, no reply. He still has over a hundred for sale.
Swifty in Illinois
Swifty 72 710M
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- Location: Golden Colorado USA
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- Posts: 715
- Joined: Sat Apr 17, 2004 6:14 pm
- Location: Golden Colorado USA
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Its that time of the year again.
Well here we go again, its summer time in NA and the heat is on. Like clockwork, In comes a 710 on the hook.
Start it up and a large, no very large clatter is evident, plus a big pool of oil on the deck. MMm, leg out of bed. The engine has seized left the piston behind, and bent and twisted the rod like it was made of chewing gum! We got it out of the crankcase after a partial tear down.
Not that a a teardown is really needed, the lot is scrap, except for the ancilliaries, and the heads etc.
One thing is for certain, the owner said well I neglected the oil, the oil light was winking at me for ages on the freeway.
So just a note for you folks to check your oil at every fuel fill up and wash out the cooling capsule after winter muck has been sucked in by the cooling fan.
As john said, they might not turn 8 grand but the engine will cost 8 grand to fix all for a can or two of oil. No fillet minion tonight for this owner!
Thank god for revolving debt, credit cards.
Dennis
Start it up and a large, no very large clatter is evident, plus a big pool of oil on the deck. MMm, leg out of bed. The engine has seized left the piston behind, and bent and twisted the rod like it was made of chewing gum! We got it out of the crankcase after a partial tear down.
Not that a a teardown is really needed, the lot is scrap, except for the ancilliaries, and the heads etc.
One thing is for certain, the owner said well I neglected the oil, the oil light was winking at me for ages on the freeway.
So just a note for you folks to check your oil at every fuel fill up and wash out the cooling capsule after winter muck has been sucked in by the cooling fan.
As john said, they might not turn 8 grand but the engine will cost 8 grand to fix all for a can or two of oil. No fillet minion tonight for this owner!
Thank god for revolving debt, credit cards.
Dennis
It takes all types to make a world, but SDP should have put a rule in place in the early days, that people this smart shouldn't ever be allowed to own a Pinzgauerthe oil light was winking at me for ages on the freeway
Peter
1974, 712 6X6 Pinzgauer
1983, 710-1.6 4X4 Pinzgauer
1997, 718 6X6 Pinzgauer (in pieces)
1971, 700 Haflinger
1974, 703 LWB Haflinger
2001, Range Rover
http://www.ozpinz.com
1974, 712 6X6 Pinzgauer
1983, 710-1.6 4X4 Pinzgauer
1997, 718 6X6 Pinzgauer (in pieces)
1971, 700 Haflinger
1974, 703 LWB Haflinger
2001, Range Rover
http://www.ozpinz.com
Oil Light
It is a bit off topic from the original post...and I risk falling into the aforementioned category posted by Peter...but...
I came in from a 20 min. ride at higher speeds (80 kmh/50 mph) and found that the oil light came on at idle. With an increase in revs, the light extinguished and everything seemed okay. I immediately pulled over, turned off the engine and waited a few minutes for the oil to seep down. I checked the level and all was good. Even the viscosity seemed okay. I resume driving and once again the idiot light comes on when at idle at an intersection. Revs up...light off. The truck was parked for a few days and, when I had some time to look at it, found that everything seemed in order. I took it out for a drive at "normal" speeds and the light does not illuminate.
Could this be indicative of an oilpan pickup thats not functioning properly or should I be looking at a thicker oil. The temperature here is in the 70's so the heat was not a factor. The oil cooler is clean.
Any thoughts?
I came in from a 20 min. ride at higher speeds (80 kmh/50 mph) and found that the oil light came on at idle. With an increase in revs, the light extinguished and everything seemed okay. I immediately pulled over, turned off the engine and waited a few minutes for the oil to seep down. I checked the level and all was good. Even the viscosity seemed okay. I resume driving and once again the idiot light comes on when at idle at an intersection. Revs up...light off. The truck was parked for a few days and, when I had some time to look at it, found that everything seemed in order. I took it out for a drive at "normal" speeds and the light does not illuminate.
Could this be indicative of an oilpan pickup thats not functioning properly or should I be looking at a thicker oil. The temperature here is in the 70's so the heat was not a factor. The oil cooler is clean.
Any thoughts?
Bob
1990 - Mercedes G-Wagon 250GD
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A goal without a plan is just a wish!
1990 - Mercedes G-Wagon 250GD
__________________________________________
A goal without a plan is just a wish!
- David Dunn
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