Door tops

Old forum posts ending on Oct 21 '09

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andy
Posts: 963
Joined: Thu Feb 15, 2007 6:31 pm
Location: Comstock, TX

Door tops

Post by andy »

Took the tops off the doors today. No sweat all the screws came out easily, no rust, the little foam strip was intact. Very nice. Now I'm trying to put them back in place and one end will go in and seat while the other end gets hung up. Fix the hung up end and presto the other end won't seat. What gives any tips or tricks to do this apparently simple operation?
Thanks.

Andy
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todds112
Posts: 666
Joined: Sun Dec 03, 2006 5:45 pm
Location: Jackson Hole, WY

Post by todds112 »

I had the same issues with mine. I actually bent the rods by hand to get them aligned correctly. I also had issues with the door tops not sealing, so I bent the rods "in" a bit. Just trial and errored it until, they dropped right in and sealed.
1973 712M
andy
Posts: 963
Joined: Thu Feb 15, 2007 6:31 pm
Location: Comstock, TX

Post by andy »

Thanks, I was considering bending them but thought I'd ask first. Will be back to trial and error tomorrow then. Taking the tops off the doors sure improves airflow and visibility.

Andy
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todds112
Posts: 666
Joined: Sun Dec 03, 2006 5:45 pm
Location: Jackson Hole, WY

Post by todds112 »

I laid mine on a flat surface, with the outside facing down. I used an angle guage on the legs and tried to match it to the other door that fit right. Then I just fiddled with the fore and aft adjustments till it went in right. I was trying to avoid heating them and destroying the paint and insulation.
1973 712M
andy
Posts: 963
Joined: Thu Feb 15, 2007 6:31 pm
Location: Comstock, TX

Post by andy »

Todd,

With a little rebar and a 4 lb mallet (used lightly) we got the tops on. They seated sealed and there is no more noise in the cab than there was before. Thanks.

Andy
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todds112
Posts: 666
Joined: Sun Dec 03, 2006 5:45 pm
Location: Jackson Hole, WY

Post by todds112 »

Andy wrote:Todd,

With a little rebar and a 4 lb mallet (used lightly) we got the tops on. They seated sealed and there is no more noise in the cab than there was before. Thanks.

Andy
Awesome. I also did the handle conversion like on SDP-Pinz site, then got some 1/16" closed cell rubber insulation tape that is 1" wide and put it on the bottom side of the tops. Works great and I can just lift them out and go. I'll put the bolts back in when "topless" season ends.
1973 712M
andy
Posts: 963
Joined: Thu Feb 15, 2007 6:31 pm
Location: Comstock, TX

Post by andy »

I know I've read the conversion, but apparently it didn't sink in at the time. I need to reread that. My concern was the day I took the tops off, that night it was going to rain and I just have a carport. I'm happy with my "small victories". New flasher, new gas guage, and the voltage regulator. I just hope nothing bigger is forced on me until I get some more confidence in myself. But, like the song said, "I get by with a little help from my friends...."
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PittsPinz
United States of America
Posts: 21
Joined: Sun Nov 14, 2004 8:16 pm
Location: Texas

Post by PittsPinz »

Has anyone come up w/an easy design to fabricate a rain gutter/drip trough to attach under the canvas over the front doors?
I like to keep my windows open & whenever I slow down/stop or open the door in the rain, it all pours into the opening.
There should be an easy way to bend a "J" trough to put between the canvas & the support cross bar w/4 cut outs for the top latch strap pieces.
andy
Posts: 963
Joined: Thu Feb 15, 2007 6:31 pm
Location: Comstock, TX

Post by andy »

I think the Yahoo Pinz group has pictures of what someone did that looks pretty effective. It's either there or in the SDP-Pinz site. I checked the SDP site real quick and didn't see it there.

Whoever did it, made it pretty simply and thought it out pretty well.
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Wayne Roberts
Posts: 121
Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 4:48 am
Location: Orlando Florida

Rain Gutters

Post by Wayne Roberts »

Here is the link for the pictures. You must be a member of the Yahoo group to see them. http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/pinzga ... rowse/d13c And here is the post on how to do it. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/pinzgauer/message/32636

Wayne
TurboJim
Posts: 45
Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2007 6:17 pm

door tops

Post by TurboJim »

i found that if i measure the window post span and set them all at the same they drop in easy i have tried this on several pinz i have the measurement at the shop maybe my brother will post on this he was going to when we figured it out im guessing 32.25 outsides but i will check and theyn will drop right in
It is only air and fuel ...For every 1 lb boost will gain you 10 % displacement
TurboJim
Posts: 45
Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2007 6:17 pm

Post by TurboJim »

ok Im sorry it was 32 5/8 outside to outside and make sure that the rear pole is at about a 90 degree and you should be good ...let me know if it works for you
It is only air and fuel ...For every 1 lb boost will gain you 10 % displacement
Profpinz
Australia
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Post by Profpinz »

it was 32 5/8 outside to outside
Huh...ohh you mean 829 mm :wink: :D :roll:
I actually had one of my UNI students say to me once..."Whats an inch ?"
Peter

1974, 712 6X6 Pinzgauer
1983, 710-1.6 4X4 Pinzgauer
1997, 718 6X6 Pinzgauer (in pieces)
1971, 700 Haflinger
1974, 703 LWB Haflinger
2001, Range Rover

http://www.ozpinz.com
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