I want to paint my truck and do it right. I have read some topics on painting. What process is recommended for using standard automotive paint on the trucks? Some say sand blast to bare metal. Others say use a special paint right over the OD. Nothing to radical in color.
What works and how do you prep the truck?
Scooter
Truck painting
Moderator: TechMOGogy
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ScottishPinz
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OK this might not be the how to paint properly, but its the best for original military look:
1. Power washed the truck removing dirt and loose paint
2. dealt with any spots of corrosion
3. Brushed (or roll) on new paint (swiss army green in my case)
Great thing is it is really easy to touch up if it gets scratched or in my case crashed by other vehicles!
1. Power washed the truck removing dirt and loose paint
2. dealt with any spots of corrosion
3. Brushed (or roll) on new paint (swiss army green in my case)
Great thing is it is really easy to touch up if it gets scratched or in my case crashed by other vehicles!
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ScottishPinz
- Posts: 407
- Joined: Wed Feb 22, 2006 3:04 am
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Contact:
OK this might not be the how to paint properly, but its the best for original military look:
1. Power washed the truck removing dirt and loose paint
2. dealt with any spots of corrosion
3. Brushed (or roll) on new paint (swiss army green in my case)
Great thing is it is really easy to touch up if it gets scratched or in my case crashed by other vehicles!
1. Power washed the truck removing dirt and loose paint
2. dealt with any spots of corrosion
3. Brushed (or roll) on new paint (swiss army green in my case)
Great thing is it is really easy to touch up if it gets scratched or in my case crashed by other vehicles!
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Wayne Roberts
- Posts: 121
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 4:48 am
- Location: Orlando Florida
Paint tips
Scooter - I have been involved spraying auto paint for over 15 years. I have used most all of the major brands at one time or another. I would recomend that you sand the entire truck with 220 grit. It does not require taking to bare metal unless there is corrosion. Once you get a well scuffed area clean the entire truck by blowing all dust off and then wipe down with a prep solvent or alcohol to remove all grease (fingerprints). I would use a good primer (not spray cans). Follow the instructions that are on the can for flash time. Cover with your finish coat going around the truck twice. Let it dry for 24 hours before driving it around.
When I painted my truck I used DuPont CoLar epoxy primer and DuPont Imron in Fed Spec 30277 Flat. I used about 1.25v quarts of primer and 2.5 quarts of Imron. It has been driven in lots of brush and has not been scratched up bad. If you have not ever used a spray gun, you will want to practice before doing the truck. You may even be able to go to a VoTech and let the students do it for you at little to no cost.
Good luck and post some pictures when you do it. Remember that if you make a mistake, just sand it off and try again.
Wayne
When I painted my truck I used DuPont CoLar epoxy primer and DuPont Imron in Fed Spec 30277 Flat. I used about 1.25v quarts of primer and 2.5 quarts of Imron. It has been driven in lots of brush and has not been scratched up bad. If you have not ever used a spray gun, you will want to practice before doing the truck. You may even be able to go to a VoTech and let the students do it for you at little to no cost.
Good luck and post some pictures when you do it. Remember that if you make a mistake, just sand it off and try again.
Wayne
Hey Scooter! I used to live in Milwaukee. What part of town are you in? I lived on the East Side for awhile and then in the Sherman Park area near North and Sherman.
Anyway, I had my truck totally repainted in desert tan a year ago following strict milspec federal standard paint codes and it looks fantastic. A long story short the truck is actually back at the shop under a new project manager and they are doing some fantastic work on it now (some of it paint related) as a result of some earlier oversights, but I would say in my experience it's best to go to bare metal with a proper primer if you want it to last and not have corrision issues, especially in Wisconsin! Everything on my truck was fine but my doors were having issues and those issues are being addressed. It seems maybe that area might be more prone to rust issues. I can't imagine using a primer would be a bad thing in any case.
It also all depends if you are staying with a military style or if you are looking for a beach cruiser.
Anyway, I had my truck totally repainted in desert tan a year ago following strict milspec federal standard paint codes and it looks fantastic. A long story short the truck is actually back at the shop under a new project manager and they are doing some fantastic work on it now (some of it paint related) as a result of some earlier oversights, but I would say in my experience it's best to go to bare metal with a proper primer if you want it to last and not have corrision issues, especially in Wisconsin! Everything on my truck was fine but my doors were having issues and those issues are being addressed. It seems maybe that area might be more prone to rust issues. I can't imagine using a primer would be a bad thing in any case.
It also all depends if you are staying with a military style or if you are looking for a beach cruiser.
If you want the best paint job possible, then a complete bare metal repaint is the way to go.
It's best to remove the body (if possible) and all the ancillary components and have them sand/grit blasted of chemically dipped (I went for sand blasting)
Be sure to pick a blaster who knows what he is doing and does cars/vehicles regurlarly, not a guy who sand blasts brick walls etc on house renovations, as you can do a lot of damage to the panels if the operator is nor skilled or uses the wrong grit size or type.
Then you can do a "ground-up" full respray, preferably in two-pack!
(it's best to phosphate dip or brush the body prior to priming)
A coat of two pack primer and a couple of coats of hi-build, then the top coats and your done....instant shine.
You can get away without baking (if you want to do it yourself) by using various chemical additives, but it's preferable to bake.
I did all the pre top-coat painting myself at a spray booth I hired (including all the driveline parts) but I left the final top coat on the body to the pros.
The results are a coating that is durable and will last for years:
....and will survive the rigours of 4WDriving and still look good!
It's best to remove the body (if possible) and all the ancillary components and have them sand/grit blasted of chemically dipped (I went for sand blasting)
Be sure to pick a blaster who knows what he is doing and does cars/vehicles regurlarly, not a guy who sand blasts brick walls etc on house renovations, as you can do a lot of damage to the panels if the operator is nor skilled or uses the wrong grit size or type.
Then you can do a "ground-up" full respray, preferably in two-pack!
(it's best to phosphate dip or brush the body prior to priming)
A coat of two pack primer and a couple of coats of hi-build, then the top coats and your done....instant shine.
You can get away without baking (if you want to do it yourself) by using various chemical additives, but it's preferable to bake.
I did all the pre top-coat painting myself at a spray booth I hired (including all the driveline parts) but I left the final top coat on the body to the pros.
The results are a coating that is durable and will last for years:
....and will survive the rigours of 4WDriving and still look good!
Peter
1974, 712 6X6 Pinzgauer
1983, 710-1.6 4X4 Pinzgauer
1997, 718 6X6 Pinzgauer (in pieces)
1971, 700 Haflinger
1974, 703 LWB Haflinger
2001, Range Rover
http://www.ozpinz.com
1974, 712 6X6 Pinzgauer
1983, 710-1.6 4X4 Pinzgauer
1997, 718 6X6 Pinzgauer (in pieces)
1971, 700 Haflinger
1974, 703 LWB Haflinger
2001, Range Rover
http://www.ozpinz.com
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David Dunn
- Posts: 2274
- Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2004 7:08 pm
- Location: Arcadia, CA
Peter, that's one of the big differences between Aussies and Yanks...when we dip the truck for the final coat, we use a tank, not dig a hole and drive it through.Profpinz wrote:...... but I left the final top coat on the body to the pros.
The results are a coating that is durable and will last for years:
.
The Trojan Horse... the 1st Pinz used to covertly carry troops into battle .
ATL Pinzgauer XM 718K TUM(HD) 6x6 FFR (aka The Green Grail)
The Trojan Horse... the 1st Pinz used to covertly carry troops into battle .
ATL Pinzgauer XM 718K TUM(HD) 6x6 FFR (aka The Green Grail)
Ahh, it's the Aussie way Dave!
BTW...I think we've "Aus-ified" your President..... we've equipped him with a Australian "Drizabone" coat and an Akubra hat and we're sending him home in the morning!!
We've also taught him how to say "G'Day Mate" properly!
BTW...I think we've "Aus-ified" your President..... we've equipped him with a Australian "Drizabone" coat and an Akubra hat and we're sending him home in the morning!!
We've also taught him how to say "G'Day Mate" properly!
Last edited by Profpinz on Sun Sep 09, 2007 1:26 am, edited 1 time in total.
Peter
1974, 712 6X6 Pinzgauer
1983, 710-1.6 4X4 Pinzgauer
1997, 718 6X6 Pinzgauer (in pieces)
1971, 700 Haflinger
1974, 703 LWB Haflinger
2001, Range Rover
http://www.ozpinz.com
1974, 712 6X6 Pinzgauer
1983, 710-1.6 4X4 Pinzgauer
1997, 718 6X6 Pinzgauer (in pieces)
1971, 700 Haflinger
1974, 703 LWB Haflinger
2001, Range Rover
http://www.ozpinz.com
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David Dunn
- Posts: 2274
- Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2004 7:08 pm
- Location: Arcadia, CA
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Twin Pinzies
- Posts: 545
- Joined: Mon Jan 03, 2005 1:33 pm
- Location: San Juan Mountains, CO
Don't you ass-ified our president? Oh, wait, he did that to himself!Profpinz wrote:Ahh, it's the Aussie way Dave!
BTW...I think weve "Aus-ified" your President..... we've equipped him with a Australian "Drizabone" coat and an Akubra hat and we're sending him home in the morning!!
We've also taught him how to say "G'Day Mate" properly!