Interior light install

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NO_H2O
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Location: Stockbridge, GA. USA
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Interior light install

Post by NO_H2O »

I got a big box of parts from SAV on Fri. Yesterday I installed the ignition conversion and it runs much better now (had some carbon tracks in the original distributor cap). I also installed the flex pipe kit on the exhast and the backfire problem is much better (found the rear heater box joint leaking now). I fabbed a nice dual cup holder (my wifes first gripe with the vehicle). I still have 2ea. 24 volt interior lights to install. One for the cab and one for the rear. Has anyone done one of these yet? I woud like to use a door switch to trigger the one in the cab. Also were is the best place to grab some hot battery power to run them?
Winch and off road lights are next (if the winch every shows up).
krick3tt
Posts: 2457
Joined: Thu Mar 16, 2006 6:48 pm
Location: Denver, CO USA

hot battery

Post by krick3tt »

I 'grabbed' hot battery power from the radio connection behind the
co-driver seat. It is always hot as it comes from the connection at the starter. If you take off from there and use a fuse block you can also connect other things, like a power converter to run a few 12v items.
...or, just follow that wire down to the connection at the starter and take it from there.
Dont take it from the connection at the radio noise supressor, it will not be as pure as directly from the battery at the starter connection, it will create problems if use that noise supressor connection to get 24v if you ever install a tachometer.

Cheers,
Morris
710M
pinzwheeling
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Re: Interior light install

Post by pinzwheeling »

NO_H2O wrote:I got a big box of parts from SAV on Fri. Yesterday I installed the ignition conversion and it runs much better now (had some carbon tracks in the original distributor cap). I also installed the flex pipe kit on the exhast and the backfire problem is much better (found the rear heater box joint leaking now). I fabbed a nice dual cup holder (my wifes first gripe with the vehicle). I still have 2ea. 24 volt interior lights to install. One for the cab and one for the rear. Has anyone done one of these yet? I woud like to use a door switch to trigger the one in the cab. Also were is the best place to grab some hot battery power to run them?
Winch and off road lights are next (if the winch every shows up).
DOT IT LED lights from Sylvania work perfectly. You can stick them anywhere, they only cost about $5 apiece, and the batteries last forever. The best part is that there is no wiring or anything else to do.

I have 6 of them in my truck.
Michael

Looking for a deal on a Toyota or used car?
email: rosenblumm@gmail.com
Erik712m
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Joined: Sun Jan 21, 2007 7:52 pm
Location: Wichita, Kansas

Post by Erik712m »

Run the switch in the front part of the door frame the hole is all ready there. switch needs a long shaft. mount the light on the side of the dash. I stole the idea from Mr. Masons Pimped pinz
NO_H2O
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Post by NO_H2O »

I like the idea of the DOT-it's. They will not leave the batteries dead if someone leaves the light on. Do the stick well?
I bought 2 of the 24v fluoresent lights from SAV and never thought about stand alone LED's. I think I might do both.
pinzwheeling
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Post by pinzwheeling »

NO_H2O wrote:I like the idea of the DOT-it's. They will not leave the batteries dead if someone leaves the light on. Do the stick well?
I bought 2 of the 24v fluoresent lights from SAV and never thought about stand alone LED's. I think I might do both.
Not only do they stick really well, but they have some kind of 3M adhesive that will allow you to remove them and move them somewhere else. I just put them wherever it's convenient. I have 2 in the front cab over both the passenger and the driver, and 4 in the back.
Michael

Looking for a deal on a Toyota or used car?
email: rosenblumm@gmail.com
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ScottishPinz
Great Britain
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Post by ScottishPinz »

I agree dot-its are the best, Ikea also does its own (cheaper) version with the same 3m sticky stuff on the back. I have these in the cab and the back.
todds112
Posts: 666
Joined: Sun Dec 03, 2006 5:45 pm
Location: Jackson Hole, WY

Post by todds112 »

I found LED stick on lights at Kmart. 3 came in a pack and they had ones with a black body. Really bright. Having them mounted with Velco means
I can take them out and use them for a work light if needed. I put 2 in the cab like map lights. Put the third in the back.
1973 712M
NO_H2O
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Post by NO_H2O »

I found 4 DOT-it's today and installed them. Nice and simple. I think I will istall door switches to the 24 volt lights and use the DOT-it's for map lights.
Scottie
United States of America
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Joined: Mon Sep 18, 2006 10:29 pm
Location: St. Louis

Just a "Me too"

Post by Scottie »

I use the dot-it lites also but keep in mind that they are not waterproof.
I doubt a led light or even several led lights if run from the Pinz batteries
would drain the batteries in less than 24 hours.
krick3tt
Posts: 2457
Joined: Thu Mar 16, 2006 6:48 pm
Location: Denver, CO USA

draining the batteries

Post by krick3tt »

I have run my ARB cooler from the 24v batteries overnight and there was no appreciable change to the battery(s) starting power of the pinz in the morning.
...So Scottie is right on in his assesment of the LED lights probably not draining the batteries.

Cheers,
Morris

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M416 trailer
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Jimm391730
United States of America
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Location: Idyllwild, CA

Post by Jimm391730 »

I routinely run my Engel (same as ARB) fridge for over 48hours and the truck batteries are still good. I have a 19LED flashlight that runs on 3 "C" cells, left it on accidentally for 5 days and it was still running, but dim!

Gotta love those LEDs!

Jim M.
pinzwheeling
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Post by pinzwheeling »

I have a 3 year old LED flashlight that is still using the original no name brand batteries and is almost as bright as when I purchased it. LEDs are definately the way to go when practical.
Michael

Looking for a deal on a Toyota or used car?
email: rosenblumm@gmail.com
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