Strange Oil Leak
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Strange Oil Leak
Hi, my pinz has developed a strange oil leak that is making me worried. I dont know if it is coming from the cylinder case (could it be craked?), or from somewhere else. The picture was taken from below the truck, and its located where the exhaust pipe connects to the cylinder case. It is the closest to the back of the truck (4th?)
Your expert technical advise is greatly appreciated.
Your expert technical advise is greatly appreciated.
ALEX.
'89 EX-VENEZUELAN ARMY 712M
'89 EX-VENEZUELAN ARMY 712M
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Ok, opened the cover and here is what I found. There is oil in some parts of the inner casing and seems to come from the upper pushrod, but as the oil falls down, there is oil in the lower pushrod and in the valves as well. (Maybe I finally found the cause of having a white smoke everytime I couldnt find why==>>oil entering the exhaust valve because of this oil leak).
Or maybe the oil is coming from this breather that goes to the oil fill tube??
What will I need to solve this?. And please let me know if you see something I dont in the pictures. Thanks.
Or maybe the oil is coming from this breather that goes to the oil fill tube??
What will I need to solve this?. And please let me know if you see something I dont in the pictures. Thanks.
ALEX.
'89 EX-VENEZUELAN ARMY 712M
'89 EX-VENEZUELAN ARMY 712M
G'Day Alex,
These are the seals/O rings Jim was talking about (more likely in regards to the orange arrows given the leaks position) .....You'll have to remove the engine covers at the back of the fan and underneath the carburettors.
These are the seals/O rings Jim was talking about (more likely in regards to the orange arrows given the leaks position) .....You'll have to remove the engine covers at the back of the fan and underneath the carburettors.
Peter
1974, 712 6X6 Pinzgauer
1983, 710-1.6 4X4 Pinzgauer
1997, 718 6X6 Pinzgauer (in pieces)
1971, 700 Haflinger
1974, 703 LWB Haflinger
2001, Range Rover
http://www.ozpinz.com
1974, 712 6X6 Pinzgauer
1983, 710-1.6 4X4 Pinzgauer
1997, 718 6X6 Pinzgauer (in pieces)
1971, 700 Haflinger
1974, 703 LWB Haflinger
2001, Range Rover
http://www.ozpinz.com
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Jeje well its nice to open your engine and find out its clean. I was told that the engine was just rebuilt before it was taken out of service. Maybe they did something wrong with the seals....
Do you know if these seals can be aftermarket or must be original parts?.
Regards,
Alex.
Do you know if these seals can be aftermarket or must be original parts?.
Regards,
Alex.
ALEX.
'89 EX-VENEZUELAN ARMY 712M
'89 EX-VENEZUELAN ARMY 712M
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Gents
The seal replacement by itself is not a big deal by so far as vehicle repairs are concerned in the big picture.
We have fixed about 47 engines over the past six years so our observations are limited , however there seems to be a correlation backed up by a factory modification or build change.
The "O" rings sealing the drain tubes do tend to go a bit hard or split inside the head register due I suspect to heat degradation even though made of silicon. In some heads the "O" ring sits on a stepped register others have a positive annular groove to hold the seal in place. I suspect the factory introduced the change to stop the seal from "walking" up the tube, creating a possible leak. The problem can be made worse if the head is placed in such a manner that the tubes end up cocked on the build. This would put undue distress on the seal causing an eventual leak.
One thing I have observed in frequent "downing" of the engine are contact abrasion of the lower "tin" cover against the tubes leading to puncturing of the tube wall and leakage, this is often mistaken for seal failure prior to opening the engine. Again the factory manual refers to a special tool to enable all four heads to be aligned for pushrod tube alignment and perhaps more importantly ensuring a "square seat on the inlet and exhaust manifolds to prevent flange cracking/gasket failure.
Should this tool be unavailable to you (like someone loaning it and not returning the item) then you can get by ensuring the heads are first lightly "nipped" down then the manifolds carefully & lightly installed to ensure squareness then doing a final torque to ensure correct alignment of the upper engine assembly.
A couple of additional comments. If you have the heads off on the bench send them out for an overcheck, installing stem seals on those heads that have the register on the stem to accept a seal. The factory did not install seals on production as far as I can tell. The heads can crack due to heat stress between the plug hole and the seats. Look for bad seating of the head to barrel register and leakage from the barrel to crankcase seat that could be mistaken for a pushrod tube leak source.
Have fun
Dennis
The seal replacement by itself is not a big deal by so far as vehicle repairs are concerned in the big picture.
We have fixed about 47 engines over the past six years so our observations are limited , however there seems to be a correlation backed up by a factory modification or build change.
The "O" rings sealing the drain tubes do tend to go a bit hard or split inside the head register due I suspect to heat degradation even though made of silicon. In some heads the "O" ring sits on a stepped register others have a positive annular groove to hold the seal in place. I suspect the factory introduced the change to stop the seal from "walking" up the tube, creating a possible leak. The problem can be made worse if the head is placed in such a manner that the tubes end up cocked on the build. This would put undue distress on the seal causing an eventual leak.
One thing I have observed in frequent "downing" of the engine are contact abrasion of the lower "tin" cover against the tubes leading to puncturing of the tube wall and leakage, this is often mistaken for seal failure prior to opening the engine. Again the factory manual refers to a special tool to enable all four heads to be aligned for pushrod tube alignment and perhaps more importantly ensuring a "square seat on the inlet and exhaust manifolds to prevent flange cracking/gasket failure.
Should this tool be unavailable to you (like someone loaning it and not returning the item) then you can get by ensuring the heads are first lightly "nipped" down then the manifolds carefully & lightly installed to ensure squareness then doing a final torque to ensure correct alignment of the upper engine assembly.
A couple of additional comments. If you have the heads off on the bench send them out for an overcheck, installing stem seals on those heads that have the register on the stem to accept a seal. The factory did not install seals on production as far as I can tell. The heads can crack due to heat stress between the plug hole and the seats. Look for bad seating of the head to barrel register and leakage from the barrel to crankcase seat that could be mistaken for a pushrod tube leak source.
Have fun
Dennis
OOOps no customer bashing now
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Alex
That sounds like an excellent idea, I have done the same several years ago with a trip to Costa Rica.
Let's see after we fixed it we could go for an extended test ride down to the beach in Cumuna or a side trip to Cuidad Bolivar, or better still, an expedition to the Llanos & the Tepuis and the tallest falls in the world.
Now envious and you have me thinking with snow on the way for Denver.
Dennis
That sounds like an excellent idea, I have done the same several years ago with a trip to Costa Rica.
Let's see after we fixed it we could go for an extended test ride down to the beach in Cumuna or a side trip to Cuidad Bolivar, or better still, an expedition to the Llanos & the Tepuis and the tallest falls in the world.
Now envious and you have me thinking with snow on the way for Denver.
Dennis
OOOps no customer bashing now
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Is this an oil leak?
When I checked my oil today I found I was very low on oil. It took three quarts to get up to the low mark. After I ran my errands, I stopped and looked under the truck and saw this at the back of the engine near the clutch cover.
Sorry about the picture, all I had was the camera on my cell phone. I circled the places where oil is dripping from. It is not dripping fast, but had drops waiting to fall within 5 minutes of parking.
So, what else should I look at? Could I have just over filled the oil? Or could it be something worse? I did spill a little oil while filling it, but I did not think I spilled this much.
Thanks!
Timothy
Sorry about the picture, all I had was the camera on my cell phone. I circled the places where oil is dripping from. It is not dripping fast, but had drops waiting to fall within 5 minutes of parking.
So, what else should I look at? Could I have just over filled the oil? Or could it be something worse? I did spill a little oil while filling it, but I did not think I spilled this much.
Thanks!
Timothy
When the only tool in your toolbox is a hammer, every problem starts to look like a nail.
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I discovered a tiny leak on the fuel pump side of my 710M a while back. The engine was low a quart, so I topped it off with Mobil1 synthetic. Normally I run regular oil in the Pinz, since synthetic will leak fast out of an older engine that is not tight, and burn fast if rings are worn (my pinz gets 1000 KPQ). Diluted 7 to 1, the synthetic seemed to stop the leak quickly, since it tends to swell gaskets slightly...or so I've read. The bottom line is the leak has stopped to this day. Bear in mind this was a nickel-sized leak, a few drops after parking the Pinz. It may work for others, it may not.