balanced drive shaft

[mjnims]

I know this has been gone over before. I recently had Tony G. here in AZ service my 710's central tubes driveshaft. He installed a lightened and balanced unit and replaced some of the bushing that were worn. I did not anticipate the drastic change it would make in the truck. Before the work I would hardly drive my 710 above 50mph but now it cruised nicely around 63mph. Almost all the vibration in the truck is gone, the rest I believe to be tire related. I can not thank Tony enough for giving me the pleasure of driving my 710 back. Even in the heat I drive it everywhere again. Should take a page out of Mark W.'s book and put AC on it.

[Twin Pinzies]

How much did it cost? Does he offer a mail-in service/exchange for the upgraded driveshafts?

[Erik712m]

If he doesn't I'd give are forum sponser a call he does

[mjnims]

The driveshafts are complete replacements. I paid $475 and it was all new material. No need for mail in as you keep your old one.

[ka]

is the material chrome moly 4130?

[mjnims]

never bothered asking. That particular shop has been building shafts for me for many years. I have done power wagon conversions and heaven forbid even played the modified jeep game for a while, so went through lots of driveshafts. Seems the rocks really don't care what the shafts are made of.

[ka]

reason i'm asking is dennis williams is talking about one that's 4130 (very high strength/weight). he called it a racing shaft. i was considering getting it. i have no idea what's involved in installing it.

[mjnims]

when a 400hp pinz is built I guess a high performance shaft will be necessary. Currently I don't see many driveshaft failures as much as ujoins just plain wearing out. As you read through the post you find that the apparent weakest point in the drivetrain appears to be the axle shafts. Those who have experienced trail related failures have had axle breakage not drive shaft failures. Would seem the stock shaft is plenty strong enough for the current system. Only reason to upgrade would be serviceability and parts availability. Some of the ujoints on certain pinzgauers are an odd size. Replacing them is tough at best. Now stainless steel axle shafts might be a different game, but also a different topic.

[Erik712m]

I agree with mike, its not so much what its made of but the quality control of the shaft maker.If it isn't perfectly balaced or if there is lob to it at all, you will wear out bearings pretty quick. Also if the repair shop runs around tring to work on six to seven cars at the same time things can get over looked. I had the corme moly for two repairs under 3000 miles before it was removed it can get costly real quick.

[Erik712m]

Mike, I can't believe Tony not asking for an exchange he's making new ends?

[ka]

ah... no no, i was speaking about the strength to weight ratio. a lighter shaft is definitely better on all counts as long as it isn't weaker. that's what chrom moly is about. it's quite a bit lighter than steel for a given strength. springy, too. it's a great airframe and bicycle frame material. the 7290 and 4130 series are both used in race car drive shafts.

i went thru HELL trying to get my new burban shaft balanced. i found out later, after moving to another more driveshaft enlightened area, that not everyone knows how to do it. there's a place in chico, ca that does.

erik712m: you used a couple cho-mo versions? they broke?

[pinzdriver]

The drive shaft mike's talking about is the one in side the central tube, whitch you have to remove the rear or front diff's to get to. I charge
about $1,100.00 to do this job it includes a lite shaft,bushings, seals, bearings in the t-case whitchs hat, bleed and adj all brakes, fill dif and t-case. The shaft is $650.00 the rest is labor and the parts i listed. I have done 5 so far including my 712 with great results. It seams to have better results in the 710's not having another set of gears and wheels to turn.
If there is still some vibrations we change to u-joints on the exturnal drive shaft mike talked about in a later subject. The weight difference from the old to the new shaft old 37lbs new shaft 24lbs it makes balanceing the new shaft much easier. I do keep the old shaft for core charge and the ends are used in making the new lite shaft, for more info or pics of shaft you can e-mail me at
pinzdriver@cox.net i can send pins.

[ka]

sounds xlnt. are you the guy who did mike's shaft work? i'm in slc, tho. sure wish i knew a way to get that done around here.

what's the material?

[Erik712m]

Tony, that sounds more than reasonable. When I had my pinz drive line done. The first charge I think was around $1,500 didn't replace bushings lasted about a week the next trip to Dennis shop cost $1,100. Just in shop labor lasted about a week the third repair was done here in Wichita I had a new drive shaft made out east Had to have yokes made just so they could balance the new shaft. The shop here just charged me for labor and it was around $1000, Parts ran around $3000. I could have got it done a little cheaper but i didn't fill comfortable getting Scott involved in my mess. Ka, i'm sure by now you know the story as i'm sure you've be pm by several of other forum members but in short no my drive shaft did not brake it wasn't ever made properly never could get it balanced. In short I spent close to $6,600 in just repairs and that didn't include travel having my pinz shipped the second time as it wasn't driveable. But theres all ways two sides of the story. If you would like to by a chrom moly 712 drive line I can sell you mine as it now hanges on my wall of shame.

[ka]

wow.... this is extemely valuable nfo here. i guess mine isn't that bad but it could be awesome as mike's?