Brake Light Sensor

Old forum posts ending on Oct 21 '09

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SAM. C.
Posts: 141
Joined: Mon Nov 06, 2006 1:08 am
Location: Brisbane, Australia

Brake Light Sensor

Post by SAM. C. »

Greetings All

Can anyone tell me if there is a way to adjust the sensitivity of my brake light switch? I have adjusted my brakes and the pedal does not depress as far as before and unless braking pretty hard ddoes not activate the brake lights.

Thanks

Sam
pinzdriver
Posts: 46
Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2004 9:07 pm
Location: phoenix,arizona usa

stop lite switch

Post by pinzdriver »

the stop lite switch has gotton hard on the inside you need to replace it. :oops:
tony in az 73 pinz 6X6
pinzdoctor is the name,pinz repair is the game!
Profpinz
Australia
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Location: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
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Post by Profpinz »

There is no adjustment Sam, it's simply a hydraulic switch.
Just replace it and all should be OK.
An equivalent aircooled VW unit should fit!

BTW, I see there is a 710K in NSW for sale on Ebay ... Do you the guy?
Peter

1974, 712 6X6 Pinzgauer
1983, 710-1.6 4X4 Pinzgauer
1997, 718 6X6 Pinzgauer (in pieces)
1971, 700 Haflinger
1974, 703 LWB Haflinger
2001, Range Rover

http://www.ozpinz.com
SAM. C.
Posts: 141
Joined: Mon Nov 06, 2006 1:08 am
Location: Brisbane, Australia

Brake Switch

Post by SAM. C. »

Thanks Guys

I will have a more detailed look tomorrow. Is it located in the master cylinder?

Peter I saw the 710K there too & no I dont know who it is looks pretty tidy though.

Sam
Profpinz
Australia
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Post by Profpinz »

Is it located in the master cylinder?
On the back of the master cylinder!
Peter

1974, 712 6X6 Pinzgauer
1983, 710-1.6 4X4 Pinzgauer
1997, 718 6X6 Pinzgauer (in pieces)
1971, 700 Haflinger
1974, 703 LWB Haflinger
2001, Range Rover

http://www.ozpinz.com
ka
Posts: 445
Joined: Mon Jun 02, 2008 8:34 pm
Location: slc,scruz,chico,bldr,kalalau,flag,sb

Post by ka »

being a switch screwed into the BACK NEARLY INACCESSIBLE side of the cylinder, i created a bracket to mount a limit switch to a totally accessible area near the brake peddle arm. it's fully easily adjustable, high quality parts and cheap to keep. the spot they put that switch is rediculous - must have been a choice driven by parts they were forced to use.
1973 710m
"it is not in the best interest of the shepherd to breed smarter sheep." ~ author unknown

press any key to continue or any other key to quit. ~author confidential
Scooter
Posts: 164
Joined: Sat Aug 21, 2004 5:32 pm
Location: Milwaukee, WIS

Post by Scooter »

My brake lights seem to flicker when the pedal is pressed and the brake lights stays on all the time. Fluid level is OK so I pulled the wires off the switch and the lights go out. Figured it was a bad switch???? I checked SWA and the parts manual and found a switch P/N 7101366062, can anyone confrim that this is the right part? Should I be checking for something else for the cause?

Thanks
Scooter
ka
Posts: 445
Joined: Mon Jun 02, 2008 8:34 pm
Location: slc,scruz,chico,bldr,kalalau,flag,sb

Post by ka »

sounds like your switch. it's the same switch used in some vw's. sure sux where they put it.
1973 710m
"it is not in the best interest of the shepherd to breed smarter sheep." ~ author unknown

press any key to continue or any other key to quit. ~author confidential
M Wehrman
United States of America
Posts: 847
Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2004 9:46 pm
Location: Gilbert, Az.

Post by M Wehrman »

The brake switch (if original) is the weak link. I had one short thru the switch housing and catch fire! I never really got used to flames coming from under the dash in any vehichle. As said before,the VW brake switch (any V dub shop will have them,under 5 bucks) is the ticket.But it is a bit of a pain to replace.
Stock means no imagination!


Volvo TGB1317, .95% Morphed!



68 Haffy
Scooter
Posts: 164
Joined: Sat Aug 21, 2004 5:32 pm
Location: Milwaukee, WIS

Post by Scooter »

I found a local parts store that can order one for me. since this sounds like a big mess and fluid all over the place. Do I need to bleed the brakes after swaping out the switch? I figure I will loose some fluid but not all of it.

Thanks
Scooter
Jim LaGuardia
United States of America
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Location: San Bernardino Ca
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Post by Jim LaGuardia »

It is a very easy and simple job, if done quickly no bleeding is required.
If you do get air, just bleed the line right off the master cylinder.
Usually yoou can pump the pedal 15-20 times and any air will expell to the reservior.
Cheers, Jim LaGuardia
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v510/Goatwerks/
"Arch Magus of Machines."
Scooter
Posts: 164
Joined: Sat Aug 21, 2004 5:32 pm
Location: Milwaukee, WIS

Post by Scooter »

Thanks Jim. This makes it sound much easier.

Scooter
ka
Posts: 445
Joined: Mon Jun 02, 2008 8:34 pm
Location: slc,scruz,chico,bldr,kalalau,flag,sb

Post by ka »

does anyone know what super special wrench could be used to get to that switch? i gave up and made my own limit switch that works off the pedal. works gr8 but i wouldn't mind knowing how to do it stock.
1973 710m
"it is not in the best interest of the shepherd to breed smarter sheep." ~ author unknown

press any key to continue or any other key to quit. ~author confidential
Jim LaGuardia
United States of America
Posts: 1704
Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2004 3:42 pm
Location: San Bernardino Ca
Contact:

Post by Jim LaGuardia »

It's called a sensor socket or you can use a short open end wrench.
The hardest part of the job is getting the wires back on. Of course you could always pull the 4 bolts that hold the pedal block assembly to gain a bit of clearance, just don't break a hydraulic line.
Cheers, Jim LaGuardia
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v510/Goatwerks/
"Arch Magus of Machines."
ka
Posts: 445
Joined: Mon Jun 02, 2008 8:34 pm
Location: slc,scruz,chico,bldr,kalalau,flag,sb

Post by ka »

thx jim! i'll take a look at one of those sockets. maybe i wont have to remove the whole body tub then.
1973 710m
"it is not in the best interest of the shepherd to breed smarter sheep." ~ author unknown

press any key to continue or any other key to quit. ~author confidential
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