Track Bar/Broken Shock Bolt

Buzz · Post by **Buzz** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 8:20 pm

Gentlemen, I managed to join the club of broken shock bolt owners last week. I reviewed the posts here but I'm stuck. The bolt is on the driver side front axle. I've been trying to drill the bolt to insert a remover tool but the track bar is really creating a problem and even with a really long bit, I'm making a mess of it. I bought one of those 90 degree drill adapters but it wont fit in the space available. What is the best way to detach the track bar so I can get a straight shot at the bolt? I appreciate your help. - Buzz

BTW, when I examined the broken surfaces of the bolt, there was a little bit of rust on the face except for the last 1/8th inch or so where it finally broke through. I checked the bolt on the opposite side of the truck and you can see a tiny bit of deflection in it. I'll be changing that one next. You may want to inspect yours too.

Jim LaGuardia · Post by **Jim LaGuardia** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 8:57 pm

Remove the nut from the tie rod end and then with a 2lb hammer, smack the arm the rod end is inserted into. This will cause the tapered end to release. Move the arm out of the way and continue your repairs.
You can also use a tie rod end removal tool.

Erik712m · Post by **Erik712m** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 9:07 pm

Be care full smacking with a hammer the tie rod ends are seal with no grease zurts. I had a shop out of state hit mine with a hammer and tear a couple of the boots. Ended up replacing later on. Not the cheapest. Use the tool some auto supply house will let you use tools for free.

Buzz · Post by **Buzz** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 9:57 pm

Thanks for the posts. I had toyed with opening up the nuts but hesitated because I took me a lot of work to get the toe-in right a few years ago. I'll just mark it with a sharpie and go from there. Thanks

Erik712m · Post by **Erik712m** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 10:07 pm

Buzz, what nut are you talking about? The nut on the top doe's not affect the toe-end. Remove the shear pin and than remove the nut.

Erik712m · Post by **Erik712m** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 10:09 pm

I don't have the manual in front of me a the moment. When I get back in town I'll post the page number.

Buzz · Post by **Buzz** » Thu Jan 08, 2009 4:42 pm

Yes,I understand what your saying now. I actually had pulled that pin and removed that nut once already. When I smacked the threaded pin from underneath it did not budge. That's when I stopped and put up my post. When I first read Jim's post I thought he was saying to take the track rod apart. I guess I was more tired than I thought last night.

Thinking about this on the side (at work) today, I realized what you were saying. More than that, I remembered the crate of Swiss tools that came with my truck 6 years ago. I have not been in it for a a couple years. Sure enough, I have the tool you guys were talking about 905.3.33502.0. The tools cost two cases of beer and has turned out to be a bargain on several occasions now.

So, when I go to put the rod end back on, can I use a hammer or should I rig up a press of some kind?

Jim LaGuardia · Post by **Jim LaGuardia** » Thu Jan 08, 2009 6:43 pm

The nut draws the tapered pin to seat as it is tightened.

Buzz · Post by **Buzz** » Thu Jan 08, 2009 7:09 pm

Thanks Jim. That makes sense.
One more thing, I made great progress drilling out the bolt and have been tapping in the extractor and even with the use of heat and alot of bit from the bit, the thing wont turn. I've almost bent the break-over bar and the extractor is beginning to set a twist in it.

What's the next step? Drilling it all out and re-tapping?

Jim LaGuardia · Post by **Jim LaGuardia** » Thu Jan 08, 2009 7:30 pm

Drilling it through all the way (5/8")and using the long bolts with nuts

Profpinz · Post by **Profpinz** » Thu Jan 08, 2009 7:42 pm

Long "through bolts" are the ONLY way to go!

Buzz · Post by **Buzz** » Thu Jan 08, 2009 8:30 pm

Sounds like a plan!

undysworld · Post by **undysworld** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 8:32 am

Buzz,
It is a plan, but it's also a bit of a pain. Get a truly sharp bit! But it does seem to be the final fix. When I did it, I ended up sourcing 5/8" bolts from Fastenal. I assume they've got a store near you, or at least on-line. The price was a small fraction of the Pinz dealer's prices for basically the same bolt.
The bolt breaking syndrome also seems to be somehow related to the use of certain shocks too. I only broke bolts using NAPA gas-charged shocks. I now run the Rancho shocks and have had no problems since.
Paul

M Wehrman · Post by **M Wehrman** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 11:58 am

I've broken 3 bolts with Ranchos,you must be lucky. I drill them out as I break them, it's a lot of work,well worth it.
Mark

dokatd · Post by **dokatd** » Sun Jan 11, 2009 1:03 pm

I have to ask, being a new owner with a broken shock bolt. What is the travel available from your shocks at ride height. I have 6 doetsch shocks on my 712M that I believe are from expedition imports. They are improperly sized for the truck in the rear. This means that the shock is supporting the load of the truck at full compression. I have a feeling that somewhere down the line shocks for the pinz were improperly spec'ed. For those that have broken a bolt, check your compression travel. A good practical experiment is to remove your shock lower bolt. Then drive the truck into a position that compresses the wheel in question to it's max. Then see if you can slide the shock back onto the bolt or just align it with the plane of the bolt. Mine are off by more than 1.5". And that doesent even fully compress the bump stop. The previous owner of my truck used all thread that I broke almost immediatly understanding that the previous owner had already worked it a bit before I got to it. .

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Track Bar/Broken Shock Bolt

Track Bar/Broken Shock Bolt

Track bar/Broken Shock Bolt