Hello all, having one of "those" weeks with the pinz. When you start
to fix one thing and it leads to 10 others. The most recent issue is a
failing starter mount. That little piece of sandwiched rubber is
starting to un-sandwich on me. EI no longer has the part in stock and
SAV's price is $40 more.
My question is if anyone has made a steel spacer to use in lieu of
that rubber starter mount. My old mount had no flex left in it
anyways, the rubber had all but turned to plastic. I'm hesitant to
modify stock equipment, but after all the recent repairs my wallet is
beginning to trump common sense.
--bubba
Rubber Starter Mount / Torque Plate
Moderator: TechMOGogy
Solenoid Replacement
I can't speak to replacing just the solenoid, however I can tell you that the first time I dropped my starter I had some pretty bloody knuckles.
It comes much easier the second, third, and each subsequent removal.
I like to turn the wheels to the far right, then remove the cover from the inside of the wheel well. Then, after removing the obvious pieces (engine cover, air filter) remove the dipstick tube.
After removing all the wires you can from the starter, you will need some tools to get to the mounting bolt on the top of the starter. I used a 3/4" Crows foot from napa, a selection of 3/8" extensions and a good quality socket wrench (one that doesn't have a lot of play before engaging.) It's not very easy for me to explain how to fit the crows fit and wrench in the opening in order to back that screw off (about 1/6th of a turn at a time). Find a position of the crows foot and socket wrench that gets some bite on the bolt and back it out. It won't move much, but it should turn enough to reseat the crows foot and do it again.
The bottom bolt is much simpler.
Tedious, but no magic here. Works for me. Maybe somebody has an easier way?
Good luck and fun tinkering!
--bubba
It comes much easier the second, third, and each subsequent removal.
I like to turn the wheels to the far right, then remove the cover from the inside of the wheel well. Then, after removing the obvious pieces (engine cover, air filter) remove the dipstick tube.
After removing all the wires you can from the starter, you will need some tools to get to the mounting bolt on the top of the starter. I used a 3/4" Crows foot from napa, a selection of 3/8" extensions and a good quality socket wrench (one that doesn't have a lot of play before engaging.) It's not very easy for me to explain how to fit the crows fit and wrench in the opening in order to back that screw off (about 1/6th of a turn at a time). Find a position of the crows foot and socket wrench that gets some bite on the bolt and back it out. It won't move much, but it should turn enough to reseat the crows foot and do it again.
The bottom bolt is much simpler.
Tedious, but no magic here. Works for me. Maybe somebody has an easier way?
Good luck and fun tinkering!
--bubba
Dead easy, but I've never tried replacing it with the starter still in the vehicle though....it's bound to be far more difficult from a room /access point of view.I was wondering how hard it is to replace?
The best way, is to drop the starter motor, then just do all your work on the bench.
Last edited by Profpinz on Tue Mar 10, 2009 4:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Peter
1974, 712 6X6 Pinzgauer
1983, 710-1.6 4X4 Pinzgauer
1997, 718 6X6 Pinzgauer (in pieces)
1971, 700 Haflinger
1974, 703 LWB Haflinger
2001, Range Rover
http://www.ozpinz.com
1974, 712 6X6 Pinzgauer
1983, 710-1.6 4X4 Pinzgauer
1997, 718 6X6 Pinzgauer (in pieces)
1971, 700 Haflinger
1974, 703 LWB Haflinger
2001, Range Rover
http://www.ozpinz.com
- Jimm391730
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