SUPER BASIC electrical question

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Jon_Gilbart
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SUPER BASIC electrical question

Post by Jon_Gilbart »

I've done some searching, but haven't seen a thread that dumbs it down enough for me. I don't know SQUAT about electrical! Anyhow, I want to run my Garmin NUVI GPS in my 712M Pinz and want to add a CB in the near future. In my "normal" vehicles, I just plug the GPS into the cigarette outlet, but as you all know, the Pinz doesn't have one. What are my options for the Pinz? I don't know an inverter from a converter, 12 V vs. 24 V, etc. Perhaps in the future, I will be adding lights, heater that actually produces warm air, winch, etc., and I'd love to plan these into the design now, but if it makes things too complicated, I'd rather do w/out for now and add that stuff later when I have some more know-how. Thanks for your help.
krick3tt
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Location: Denver, CO USA

electrical

Post by krick3tt »

Jon,
I feel your pain. I have done the things that you have just described and it is not so difficult. Electricity is spooky mostly cause it can't be seen but you will know it is there if it is let loose. Say, through your hand or anything else you stick in there.
It will help if you are familiar with the vehicle and where the power originates. I tapped off the main power for my 24 to 12 converter (behind the passanger seat) installed a switch in the line (per Jim, to isolate the converter and save my battery) then a fuse to protect the items. From the output side of the converter is 12 volt power for the CB, radio and outlet.
Actually running the wires to keep them from getting snagged may be the biggest challange.
You are going to have some fun doing this if you just take it slow and plan it out.
Lots of possibilities from other pinz owners will show up here ove time.
PM me if you might want some pictures and additional chat.

Happy trails
Morris
710M, M416 trailer
psychoman
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Location: Isle of Man - UK

Post by psychoman »

Ah - I'm going through the same dilemna at the moment - stuff with nuts and bolts I'm fine with, no clue re electrics. First point is finding a main feed I guess... so if you have photos that would help!

Cheers
It aint what you drive, its the way that you drive it...
captxmas
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Joined: Fri Jun 13, 2008 1:20 am
Location: San Francisco Bay Area

ELECTRICALLY Challenged

Post by captxmas »

I would also love to get any pictures illustrating what you have done. Although not a complete novice, I beleive that re creating the wheel is not the best wat to solve a problem. Did you install a VDO electronic speedo? I'm also looking for power supply points for this installation. Info can be sent to captxmas@gmail.com if convenient.

Thanks as always to all of you who help out so much.

John
Capt Xmas
krick3tt
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electronic speedo

Post by krick3tt »

Yes.
I did install an electronic speedo, VDO, but it died after 2000 miles. Not a 'best' use of my money.
I put the mechanical speedo back in and have just decided to live with it. I have 33 inch tyres and they throw the speed and distance off about 9% so I use a GPS when travelling to get accuracy of any degree.

Morris
drawe
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Location: Colorado Springs,CO USA

24 to 12

Post by drawe »

The previous owner did the system SO WRONG! I will be doing a re-install soon with pictures and maybe a video as well. Three things to make sure of :
1. Look where you place it and where the mounting holes and hardware will go: the previous owner drilled thru original instruction plates. So much for that.
2. Make sure that ALL 12 volt ground and 24 volt ground ARE ISOLATED. If this is not done? What happens when a 12 volt system couples back into a 24 volt circuit? or what happens to routing back to a battery group at 24volt? Fuses blow, things 'blow' and no one is happy!
3. PLEASE terminate all lugs/wires correctly. In other words don't try to cram a 8 gauge wire into a 12 gauge lug.
It is quite simple to do these installs and figure out the amperage requirements for the stuff you will run.

Also, there are a number of 24volt things out there for the marine, heavy equipment, and OTR trucking industry that work quite nicely without worrying about the conversion factor.

Dave
undysworld
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Post by undysworld »

FWIW:

To my surprise, I recently found out that most OTR trucks currently (pun most definitely intended) run 12vdc, instead of the 24vdc I remembered as a kid.

My NAPA store has been helpful with 24v bulbs and relays.
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David Dunn
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Re: 24 to 12

Post by David Dunn »

drawe wrote:2. Make sure that ALL 12 volt ground and 24 volt ground ARE ISOLATED. If this is not done? What happens when a 12 volt system couples back into a 24 volt circuit? or what happens to routing back to a battery group at 24volt? Fuses blow, things 'blow' and no one is happy!

Dave
This is wrong. Ground is ground. If you are using an 24 to 12v converter, you are using the body as ground... if you are tapping 12v from one battery ( which is a bad idea), tap the 12v from the plus side of the bottom battery, DO NOT use the 'upper battery" for positive 12v, as the ground from that battery will short out.
DO NOT route any ground wire back to the battery, but to the chassis or the body side of the cutoff switch (The cutoff switch on 710/12 are on the ground side, and not the positive... and any cable back to the battery defeat the switch ). If you ever have the cutoff switgh off and attempt to start the truck,, all the circuitry will become a direct ground back to the batteries and burn out everything that the ground cable to the batteries are tied too.

This has been gone through many times in the past, and is one of the subjects on SDP-P site ( whenever it's back up)

Dave
.
The Trojan Horse... the 1st Pinz used to covertly carry troops into battle .




ATL Pinzgauer XM 718K TUM(HD) 6x6 FFR (aka The Green Grail)
Erik712m
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Re: 24 to 12

Post by Erik712m »

David Dunn wrote:
drawe wrote:2. Make sure that ALL 12 volt ground and 24 volt ground ARE ISOLATED. If this is not done? What happens when a 12 volt system couples back into a 24 volt circuit? or what happens to routing back to a battery group at 24volt? Fuses blow, things 'blow' and no one is happy!

Dave
This is wrong. Ground is ground. If you are using an 24 to 12v converter, you are using the body as ground... if you are tapping 12v from one battery ( which is a bad idea), tap the 12v from the plus side of the bottom battery, DO NOT use the 'upper battery" for positive 12v, as the ground from that battery will short out.
DO NOT route any ground wire back to the battery, but to the chassis or the body side of the cutoff switch (The cutoff switch on 710/12 are on the ground side, and not the positive... and any cable back to the battery defeat the switch ). If you ever have the cutoff switgh off and attempt to start the truck,, all the circuitry will become a direct ground back to the batteries and burn out everything that the ground cable to the batteries are tied too.

This has been gone through many times in the past, and is one of the subjects on SDP-P site ( whenever it's back up)

Dave

Dave, If you do not us the supplied ground on a dc to dc converter. The manufactures warranty is void. Ground is not ground. Google (ground bounce dc to dc converter)
Erik712m
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Post by Erik712m »

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David Dunn
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Post by David Dunn »

Erik
I did not say not to use any ground, but to not return it to the battery.
That means any ground wire must go to the chassis or the body side of the cutoff switch.
.
The Trojan Horse... the 1st Pinz used to covertly carry troops into battle .




ATL Pinzgauer XM 718K TUM(HD) 6x6 FFR (aka The Green Grail)
drawe
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Joined: Mon Aug 08, 2005 12:34 pm
Location: Colorado Springs,CO USA

terminal block

Post by drawe »

OK, what i meant from this is to have the ground of the 12volt side of the converter isolated from the 24volt side using a common terminal block system (this also can make the rest of your wiring neater.
An example while for a 12 volt system is shown:

Image
<p>
Do not use the green wire seen as a ground to the plate instead have it come from the 12volt ground/negative side of the converter, not from the battery.

It does not have to be like this exact picture but you get the idea. The only reason I'm going off in this direction is that the previous owner was somewhat 'challenged' in the electrical and after my 15 years of rebuilding mobile military radar huts. :wink:
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