Backfire and poor/no idle

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drawe
Posts: 7
Joined: Mon Aug 08, 2005 12:34 pm
Location: Colorado Springs,CO USA

Backfire and poor/no idle

Post by drawe »

Hi All,

I have a 1975 710M. Had it on a LONG COLD trip from Colorado to Iowa and back in December '08. Air temps were constantly around -10 below (we almost froze to death). There was alot of problems (of course) like intermittent carb backgiring with even getting up to a reasonable operating temp while driving.

So now it's March and MUCH warmer (above 30 LOL) but I can't keep it idling at stops. It sputters and then dies unless I keep foot on the gas a little. So with all this backfiring and now poor idle does anyone think it's time to rebuild carbs? :? This problem just started about a week or so ago.

Dave
Jim LaGuardia
United States of America
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Location: San Bernardino Ca
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Post by Jim LaGuardia »

Start by checking the #10 breaker and then clean the molex connector terminals and try again. Sounds like the carb solonoids have lost power.
That is the most common cure for your symptoms.
Cheers, Jim LaGuardia
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v510/Goatwerks/
"Arch Magus of Machines."
dokatd
United States of America
Posts: 301
Joined: Sun Nov 30, 2008 8:13 pm

Post by dokatd »

MAke sure both chokes are closing fully. Also check for fouled plugs. And if you have a civilian plug conversion, check your plug wires. Just one cylinder acting up can cause your problems.
drawe
Posts: 7
Joined: Mon Aug 08, 2005 12:34 pm
Location: Colorado Springs,CO USA

Oops!

Post by drawe »

I took a close look at the front carb and noticed some fuel condensation/leakage around its' top section. Maybe I need to dig in. I have only a short time for this but will take a look.

Thanks for the suggestions :D

I'll report back if I find an 'easy solution'

Dave
todds112
Posts: 666
Joined: Sun Dec 03, 2006 5:45 pm
Location: Jackson Hole, WY

Post by todds112 »

See if you can wiggle the upper part of the carb. There are 4 screws that come up through the bottom of the throttle body. Mine are always coming loose. It's a pain because you have to remove the carb from the engine to tighten them.
1973 712M
pinztrek
Barbados
Posts: 131
Joined: Mon Aug 01, 2005 9:27 pm
Location: Atlanta Area
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Post by pinztrek »

dokatd wrote:MAke sure both chokes are closing fully. Also check for fouled plugs. And if you have a civilian plug conversion, check your plug wires. Just one cylinder acting up can cause your problems.
I can confirm this. What I thought was a carb issue that haunted me for a while turned out to be a wimpy coil. I had reasonable spark when I checked them out of the engine. But they would blow out under 2-3k rpm resulting in hard starting, poor idle, etc. Rev it up, voltage goes up, and it worked fine.

Put a $19 "Blue bosch" coil on and it ran like a top! (Or at least as good as the carb'd ones ever do :-> )
< http://www.pinztrek.com/pinz/mods/pinz_mods.htm >

There is more than one "blue bosch" coil... you want the 3 ohm one as that's exactly what's in the military contained. Google blue bosch and you'll find the vw, bmw, mercedes crowd has all the info you need. Also is in the pinzgauer yahoo group forum, search the archive. Only works if you have done the civilian plug mod, at least for the coil wire. (or use a vw dist cap)

Have fun,

Alan
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