When checking the float level, do you remove the floats or leave them in? Do you leave the acceleration piston in?
I did both and set my measuring device to 18mm. On a brand new float valve, i installed the largest of the washers that came with EIs rebuild kit. On level ground, measuring just to the right of the float platform, i measured 18mm to the meniscus. Seems correct but there are several variables. Drivability is up although i can feel minor surging.
I turned in the idle air screws and screwed them out two whole revolutions.
I completely removed the accelerator linkages (and broke a plastic end. Need to get a replacement. See below). When i fully rotated the throttle body idle screws out, the truck still ran... Thats not good correct? If i applied pressure on the arm i can close the TB off a bit more resulting in a stumble, but not the engine dieing. In my current condition, the front TB screw is ALL the way out and the back is screwed in about 4 rotations. Looks like the shaft is worn.

Good news is its now running better than it ever has

When i cracked the plastic ball socket, i removed the one thats attached to the pedal linkage at the engine end. I swapped that cup to the carb arm. I needed to "modify" a solution to the missing cup at the end of the pedal linkage. I installed a large washer and two nuts backed in almost all the way to the end of the threads. I pulled a piece of 18 gauge wire through the washer and around the ball socket on the engine portion of the mount. A quick zip tie through the spring hole and surrounding the wire loop keeps it in place. Since there is a return spring here, we really only have to worry about "pull" and not push.
Pedal travel is a little funky but it works. Time to order a few replacement cup ends with my next part request.