So much fun checking float levels and carb tuning. Questions

Old forum posts ending on Oct 21 '09

Moderator: TechMOGogy

Locked
User avatar
audiocontr
United States of America
Posts: 1826
Joined: Fri May 01, 2009 1:30 pm
Location: Detroit Motor City

So much fun checking float levels and carb tuning. Questions

Post by audiocontr » Wed Jul 29, 2009 7:18 am

Sense the sarcasm? Maybe not entirely sarcastic. Im enjoying the hands on learning.

When checking the float level, do you remove the floats or leave them in? Do you leave the acceleration piston in?

I did both and set my measuring device to 18mm. On a brand new float valve, i installed the largest of the washers that came with EIs rebuild kit. On level ground, measuring just to the right of the float platform, i measured 18mm to the meniscus. Seems correct but there are several variables. Drivability is up although i can feel minor surging.

I turned in the idle air screws and screwed them out two whole revolutions.

I completely removed the accelerator linkages (and broke a plastic end. Need to get a replacement. See below). When i fully rotated the throttle body idle screws out, the truck still ran... Thats not good correct? If i applied pressure on the arm i can close the TB off a bit more resulting in a stumble, but not the engine dieing. In my current condition, the front TB screw is ALL the way out and the back is screwed in about 4 rotations. Looks like the shaft is worn. :(

Good news is its now running better than it ever has :D

When i cracked the plastic ball socket, i removed the one thats attached to the pedal linkage at the engine end. I swapped that cup to the carb arm. I needed to "modify" a solution to the missing cup at the end of the pedal linkage. I installed a large washer and two nuts backed in almost all the way to the end of the threads. I pulled a piece of 18 gauge wire through the washer and around the ball socket on the engine portion of the mount. A quick zip tie through the spring hole and surrounding the wire loop keeps it in place. Since there is a return spring here, we really only have to worry about "pull" and not push.

Pedal travel is a little funky but it works. Time to order a few replacement cup ends with my next part request.

pinzinator
Posts: 791
Joined: Thu Jul 29, 2004 3:12 pm
Location: Indio, California

Post by pinzinator » Wed Jul 29, 2009 1:54 pm

I honestly think that the carbs and their adjustments are beyond the scope of 90% of Pinz owners, and I'm one of those 90%.
My Pinz ran like crap when I bought it in 2004, so I took it to a guy who specialized in German cars, was familiar with Zeniths, but had never seen a Pinzgauer. $75 and 45 minutes later he had it running like a sewing machine by using the correct syncro and exhaust gas analyzing tools, and I haven't touched the carbs since, hence have had no problems.
My advice, if you want the Pinz to run right, is to find a good mechanic and pay him once to work his magic. If you don't care how, or if, the vehicle runs right, that is your call. Unless you have the patience of a saint and a lot of luck, trial and error can go on forever with Zenith carbs.
That's my unbiased viewpoint.

Locked