THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

so, I went out side to go to work this morning and ... no start. cranks fine, but no start.

luckily, I have a back up vehicle, a motorcycle, but it's supposed to rain this weekend.

i get home tonight and take a look at my pinz and it appears as tho I'm not getting any spark. 24 volts to the coil,good compression, obvious gas. but i'm not seeing any spark. it has the petronix conversion and civi plugs, cap, wires, etc.

couple questions.

is there a way to test the petronix part(dunno what the correct name of it is)?

I have the points I could sub back in, but I don't see an obvious way to connect the wires. it's been years since I worked on a points ignition and I don't recall the usual schematic. the repair manual is worthless in that area and so, a little direction there would be much appreciated.

jim

turned out to be the coil. I had a spare laying around that I subbed in and it fired right up. odd. the coil that was in there was pretty new... two or three months old.

anyways, it's running now.

I'd still like to see some kind of wiring diagram for hooking up the points ...

Jim

Was that an original style coil, the same type that came with the Pinzgauer new?

pinzinator wrote:Was that an original style coil, the same type that came with the Pinzgauer new?

no ... it was the coil that came with the civi conversion.

Jim,

The pertronix system works pretty much the same way as the original points, except there is a "digital" set of points instead of a mechanical set. Typically more reliable and not subject to burning due to a bad condensor.

The 24V wire connects to the positive side of the coil. The points/ pertronix side connects to the negative side. Basically, when the points open, the field inside the coil collapses and you get a spark. Pretty straight forward. The profile of the lobe on the distributor cam accounts for the dwell or duration of that spark. You rotate the distributor housing to set the timing which is the point where this dwell cycle begins relative to the position of the piston in its four cycle function, IE: before or after top dead center on the compression stroke and measured in crankshaft degrees.

There is a circular ballast resistor under the steering column which can be adjusted to vary the primary voltage going to the positive side of the coil. The ones I have worked on also had an external condensor mounted to area next to the top of the right front shock mount and the negative side of the coil. This minimizes static to any radios or electronics as I recall.

Hope this helps?

Mike

Middlebury_Pinz wrote:There is a circular ballast resistor under the steering column which can be adjusted to vary the primary voltage going to the positive side of the coil.

I didn't know that, I've looked inside one of them and didn't see any way to adjust them. How do you make the adjustment?

I wonder if the circular ballast resistor for a unimog could be used for the pinz as it looks the same? Haven't cross checked the numbers.

Miles

got it ... thanks Mike. I can take it from there.

tho I am a bit surprised the ballast resistor is adjustable ... I've never heard of that sort of thing before. all the ones I'm familiar with are a fixed resistor. guess I'll have to look at that resistor closer

jim