Picked Up 716 Today

HOOPS PINZ · Post by **HOOPS PINZ** » Sat Mar 13, 2010 1:00 pm

Well finally picked up my 716 from Shropshire GunBus here in the UK.
I drove it back around 200 miles on Thursday the gearbox takes a little getting used to. I found it wanted to change from 4th to 3rd instead of 4th to 5th if your not careful.

Just starting to repaint her before I check her over mechanically so I will report back on how it goes and post any problems that I find.

I did notice that inside the doors there is no rustproofing like the 710

You dont want to go back to a petrol after driving one of these.

Steve

Garymartin · Post by **Garymartin** » Sat Mar 13, 2010 4:34 pm

Hi hoops pinz,

congratulations on your 716, is it a k or m the diesels are a joy to drive, my 718k also had very little rust protection on the rear side doors,some aluminium plate was put on to hid rust damage but I will have to give them more attention when time permits,what year is yours? enjoy.

Regards

Garymartin.

HOOPS PINZ · Post by **HOOPS PINZ** » Sun Mar 14, 2010 4:04 pm

Hi Garymartin Mine is a M so not so much rust in the doors as the Ks seem to have.
Its funny that my 710 had good rustproofing lots of the stuff when I took the door panels off but the diesels have none.

Ive just started to paint her then its an oil change and check over. I will bve waxoiy inside the doors and everywher I can get the stuff into under the floor plates, chassis etc

Oh Its a 1993 P90

Steve

fesm_ndt · Post by **fesm_ndt** » Wed Mar 17, 2010 10:36 am

I forgot to mention in our emails.

There should be vinyl covers on the doors where the top widow frame two bolts go in.

It seems to be a major place water gets in the doors.

I hammerite all the areas, where hidden areas area. Not reputedly the best paint but nicest we can get here, and it matches the rest of the paint.

fesm_ndt · Post by **fesm_ndt** » Sun Mar 28, 2010 5:55 am

I been in Aus

Send some piccies when you get some more done

cant remember if I sent my youtube attempts... as had a play and went on a 6 hour trip yesterday

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HNe5sP3E ... re=channel

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E33MLD7u ... re=channel

Ok, I'm not Steven Spielberg but was fun

HOOPS PINZ · Post by **HOOPS PINZ** » Mon Mar 29, 2010 1:37 pm

Hi Mike Yes I noticed the tape that goes over the door top bolts
Ive used some Gaffer tape thats done the job.

Lots of silly bits wrong with mine, like large gator missing from behind drivers seat that covers the fuel tank filler, self taping screws fitted when they should be screw threaded, timing cover missing, split in gear change cable, rad hose and heater valve leaking. Thats without looking too deep as Ive been painting.

All the side panels were leaking Ive had the side rails off dryed it all out and resealed the panels waxoild behind, now no leaks so far

Where the tarps fitted Ive had to straighten the body around the holes so they no longer leak through.

I removed the door tops and hammerited where the rubber seal fits
bit of rust behind the door mirrors that fit to the door 1 was quite bad

I start on some of the mechanical tomorrow

Steve

fesm_ndt · Post by **fesm_ndt** » Mon Mar 29, 2010 7:15 pm

We found a good solution of using double sided foam rubber tape between mating surfaces.

I have it between the rub rails and the body and will be later between the roof and body and the canvas attachment points on the cab

I was a bit dubious originally of the foam rubber thinking it may entrap water but we sealed a jar with water and turned it upside down for no leaks

I used black sealent between some body parts and the body, namely the roof but the sealent never went firm

HOOPS PINZ · Post by **HOOPS PINZ** » Wed Apr 07, 2010 3:06 pm

Well Ive spent 4 weeks solid every day working on the 716 and Ive loads more to do.
Ive nearly finished painting her just one rear quarter panel to do.
Ive also painted most of the cab and have started stripping out the back to paint that. Im going to use a bedliner paint to see how it comes out.
I changed the oil and filter and checked all the other oils was told that they had all been changed apart from the hub oil. Anyone know why its a top up only and no changing of the oil for the hubs ?

I have an engine water leak which Im waiting on parts before I tackel that one

A lot of the work has been stripping the old silver paint off. it had been coverd with silver paint over the camo paint so had lots of layers to flat down and pulled a few small dents out.

On holiday next week so having a week off Ski-ing then back to work on her. Not even had time to drive it yet

Steve

fesm_ndt · Post by **fesm_ndt** » Wed Apr 07, 2010 11:07 pm

I am having trouble getting the hub oils as no distributor for the 2 different recommended types, Mobil and BP synthetic lubes.

Anyone come accross any alternatives?

I waited 6 months for my first real spin, but that was because:

- originally told we had to go for another inspection prior to rego so had to be painted prior to that
- we thought if we were going to paint it, we would rip it completely apart to paint it

that silver paint is a damn curse.

wrangler0511 · Post by **wrangler0511** » Fri Apr 09, 2010 2:11 am

You can use standard 75W90 gear oil in the TD Hubs without any
Problems.

I use the same Oil in my TD like in my gassers as the factory
spec Glygoyle 30 is very hard to find and veeery expensive.

Richard

fesm_ndt · Post by **fesm_ndt** » Fri Apr 09, 2010 2:14 am

wrangler0511 wrote:You can use standard 75W90 gear oil in the TD Hubs without any
Problems.

I use the same Oil in my TD like in my gassers as the factory
spec Glygoyle 30 is very hard to find and veeery expensive.

Richard

How often you replace it? I think the original is every 50k was indefinate

wrangler0511 · Post by **wrangler0511** » Fri Apr 09, 2010 3:06 pm

I replace it every 10k or after every wheeling trip that involved
deep water crossings.
Whatever comes first, but usually its the latter.

Richard

Ugo · Post by **Ugo** » Sat Apr 10, 2010 1:00 am

Glygoyle 30 is NOT an automotive lube: it's an industrial grade oil for extreme applications, when exceptional resisance to corrosion is required. It is tremendously expensive but, according to SDP, lasts (almost) forever.
When I bought my 716k, not knowing her history, I opted for a full fluid change; and I put in the hubs a good 75W90 with 10% Molykote added, just like in my (ex) 710k.

fesm_ndt · Post by **fesm_ndt** » Sat Apr 10, 2010 9:52 am

Found a Mobil dealer today and got 20 litres of diff, gearbox, steering oil for 67.47 euro

he's looking for the glygoyle next week

HOOPS PINZ · Post by **HOOPS PINZ** » Sat Apr 24, 2010 1:25 pm

Update on my Pinz

Back from Ski-ing at last after having to drive back and catch the ferry as no flying due to the Iceland ash problem.

Had an other week working on her, its good to be back. I fixed one water leak it was a pipe from the Rad corroded I ended up cutting 3ins of the pipe and refitting the hose.

Ive also panel beated one of the floor sections to get the dents out. The floor was damaged from the fork lift trucks moving the Pinz around the yard. Not had time to do the other side yet.

Took her over Salisbury Plain today which went very well. I managed to get some G Wagon front seats as the ones in the Pinz were very rusty underneath and the reclining ratchets worn to hell. Just looking to get them recoverd now to freshen it up.

Its suprising what you find when you look deeper in to things.