THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

i want to change the oil in my wheel drives to quieten them down a little, whats recomended as im having trouble locating Mobil glygoyl 30 in small quantities here in Australia. Does it need to be synthetic and do I need to flush the drives out prior to refilling? Thanks

I just replaced mine, and I went with Penzoil GearLube GL4, mainly because I wanted one gear oil for everything other than the engine and GL4 oils will go everywhere. I have read here that if you use synth in the wheel drives, and it leaks onto your brake shoes, they are shot.

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=4070&hilit=synthetic+shoes

Jim LaGuardia wrote:Redline for trans only. Never use any synthetic in the portals, if it leaks onto the brake shoes, they will need to be replaced

Berger,
The TDs are built different than the gassers, and specs for the wheel drive oil were changed.
These are different animals from the 710/12.

Unfortunately, all my manuals for the 716/18 went with my truck

What do i need to flush the drives with?? will engine oil flush work as I havent seen a specific diff or wheel drive one. Will 80w-140 (G5) be better for keeping noise down???
Thanks for all the advice

Hardro 33

The correct oil for the hubs on the diesel is Glycol 30 which I think has been replaced by 220

I stripped all 4 of mine out to replace the hub oil seals and cleaned the hubs out of old oil then filled with the 220

Should be Glygoyle and its expensive

Mobil Glygoyle 30
Mobil Glygoyle Series are polyglycol based lubricants blended with selected additives. They provide outstanding performance in extreme temperature gear, bearing, circulation systems and gas and refrigerator compressor applications.

They are available in three viscosities - Mobil Glygoyle 11, 22 and 30 - and cater for operating conditions beyond the capabilities of mineral oils. Higher viscosity products are available in the Glygoyle HE Series.

Mobil Glygoyle 30 Details
Weight 25.00 kg
Unit 20 Litres

Price: £237.20
Mobil Glygoyle 30 Options

Interesting stuff. Fully synthetic and not miscible with mineral or traditional pao synthetic oils. But at $US50/gal. wow is right.

And how many gallons per wheel ?

It´s just around 400cc por wheel.

Also can´t find any smaller format than 20L... too expensive.

Now i´m checking this one in the 220 specs, mineral, lower viscosity at 100°C, but I think it would be bettrer than a 80w90...
http://www.lubrax.com/Public/upload/pro ... x-Gear.pdf

any opinion??

Thanks!!

I've researched using Glygoyle for a while now. Apart from buying directly from S-Tec I can't find smaller quantities of the oil anywhere in Aus, and as 20 litres costs around $300Aus (you only need around 3 litres for ALL the portals) and has a shelf life of 5 years, I've opted to go REDLINE.

Redline sell a full synthetic called Heavy Shockproof (that is available in 1 and 4 litre containers) that complies with ISO VG 220 and according to their tech reps has better properties than the Glygoyle in most areas EXCEPT low temperature environments.....something I don't see as a problem in Australia and other "warmer" countries.

I'II let you know in the future whether my decision was a good one! )

Hi, just made the first longer trip on my 718.

Crusing speed 85-90 km/hr. nice sound for the children to sleep, they could not stand more tan 30 min until they felt asleep, also could not hear my wife complaining about I don´t knopw what jejeje!

Drove about 30 km and checked temp on all transmission including wheels, warm but not hot. Gaining confidence drove 110 km more and as we arrived on destination felt both front wheels hot and the rear 4 were just warm. Levels are ok on all wheels. (Valvoline AGMA 5 ISO VG 220 mineral oil)

later driving on sand I could not get the 3rd axle to connect so I was just able to use 4wd... front and middle axle. Light on the switch turns green, also tried connecting the low speed on the transfer case, but again no traction on rear axle...

Any sugestion to diagnose the temp on the fron wheels (brakes are ok) and third axle not connecting?

Greetings.

later driving on sand I could not get the 3rd axle to connect so I was just able to use 4wd... front and middle axle. Light on the switch turns green, also tried connecting the low speed on the transfer case, but again no traction on rear axle...

The 718 (and 712) centre and rear differential are permanently connected together so the vehicle is always operating as a 6X4.......only the front axle can be independently connected (disconnected) by the driver to give 6X6.
With the diff locks however, both the centre and the rear lock at the same time by the one switch (rear diff lock) whilst the front diff lock switch only controls the front diff.

Given your question I'm a little confused as to why you believe the rear axle is not connected.
If you’re sure the rear axle is not connected then it’s a major fault, probably a broken drive shaft or connector……or do you mean the rear axle differential lock is not operating? There is only one light on the switch to indicate both locks are on.
If the rear axle lock is not operating it could be a problem with the vacuum actuator or the diff-lock assembly itself ...... the actuator is easily accessable, the lock assembly less so, however, at least the rear diff-lock assembly is the easiest of all three to reach without major disassembly.

Thanks for the answer... but wow

Yesterday lifted both center and rear axles and the rear one is free...

checked the lock and it works on both axles. Unlocked both center wheels turn as they should when turned manually (different direction). On the rear axle both wheels turn freely, independendent from each other when unlocked, as I lock the differential both turn connected the same direction, but has no interaction with the center axle...

also by driving on sand the rear axle has no traction, neither by pushing switch allrad or the low speed lever.

Thanke for the help.

It sounds like you have a broken axle shaft or pinion. Middle and rear axle should react the same.