THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

I think it's time to pull out the differential.
Have you facilities to do it yourself or will you get it done at a professional workshop?

It sounds like you will have to pull the rear diffs out to look for 1 of two failures, #1 the splined drive line coupling is broken, or #2 the center diff locker rear drive shaft(output) is sheared. The up side is it will be obvious once the rearmost diff is removed The down side is handling the heavy components, but I use a 500lb capacity hydraulic lift table for this on 710/712 models.

Hello, definitely something must be broken in the differential.

Any info on where I can find information to remove the rear differential and find the fault? :?:

Thanks!

Thanks, I have the facilities and a good mechanic, but no procedure on how to remove the differential...

The procedure is fully detailed in the Repair/Service manuals which I understood (from a previous post of yours) that you already have.

Probably the easiest method, is to support the rear of the body, split the chassis between the transfer box and the rear of the backbone tube and "roll out" the complete rear driveline assembly.......not quite as simple procedure as it sounds (there are few things etc to disconnect/remove), but the advantage is you can use the existing wheels and suspension setup to remove the assembly.
..........our you could just remove the rear diff, but you will need to drop the rear of the chassis slightly to get clearance, then support the differential for removal.

Hi, now I found the procedure... it was in the other volume, now a nice weekend of study of mechanics in german...
I´ll try to remove the last axle only.
let you know how it´s going and questions I have...

Thanks again!

Hi, having removed the rearmost axle, found the problem is on the pinion shaft if damaged. The splines which joins it with the spinned hub are worn. The spinned hub seems to have some wear as well, bus the splines on the shaft are almost gone...

Could not find the price for the pinion shaft, but assume it wont be cheap! Any ideas?? I think it´s no good idea to repair it.

Here a picture before opening the diff. Later will attach some more.

Greetings!

Here some pictures of the shaft, damaged and also the fit side, and the plined hub.

With a quick check of the parts manual, it appears that only the ring and pinion gears themselves are 716 part #s and everything else are 710 numbers.

So go hunt down a 710 or 712 and liberate a diff for it's parts.

Not nearly as good as a proper replacement, but if this is the rearmost axle, turn the shaft around so the worn splines are aft, towards the parking brake, and the good splines are getting driven. Then drill a hole for a cross pin through the damaged splines and collar so the parking brake is functional again. Generally, the brake will have much less torque than driving.

Jimm391730 wrote:Not nearly as good as a proper replacement, but if this is the rearmost axle, turn the shaft around so the worn splines are aft, towards the parking brake, and the good splines are getting driven. Then drill a hole for a cross pin through the damaged splines and collar so the parking brake is functional again. Generally, the brake will have much less torque than driving.

That is a great temp fix!

I' ve been thinking about a solution like that, but the front part has a hole where the driving shaft fits in. it should be drilled.
And would the diff lock work in that configuration? Anyway the lock would be a secondary problem...
Thanks for the ideas and opinions!

Unless you are under a time restraint, replace the parts. You have all the time into dismantling, do you feel it would be worth doing a second time? Especially if it happens at a less opportune time, and possibly more dramatic

For correct part order/ search you have to look which version is build in. http://www.puch.at/3098_Lagerhals-mitte ... spx?LNG=de pos 22 is the same as on Petrol Pinzgauer .
Version 2 ( 29+30) was also mount on factory remanufactured Austrian Pinzgauers- but used parts are hard to find. If you change the wornout clutch, you have to look for the running surface of the opposite clutch too. Use only flat and level clutch connections and the same bright. The central shaft (9) http://www.puch.at/3097_Ausgleichgetriebe.aspx?LNG=de is the same as on petrol pinz. the current priece is at 495,10 € exclusive.

The true Pinzgauer´s wrote:For correct part order/ search you have to look which version is build in. http://www.puch.at/3098_Lagerhals-mitte ... spx?LNG=de pos 22 is the same as on Petrol Pinzgauer .
Version 2 ( 29+30) was also mount on factory remanufactured Austrian Pinzgauers- but used parts are hard to find. If you change the wornout clutch, you have to look for the running surface of the opposite clutch too. Use only flat and level clutch connections and the same bright. The central shaft (9) http://www.puch.at/3097_Ausgleichgetriebe.aspx?LNG=de is the same as on petrol pinz. the current priece is at 495,10 € exclusive.

Thanks! having measured the parts mine is vers I. The shaft (antriebswelle nr 23) has some wear as well so I'm considering to replace it too. I understand that in that case it would be possible and wise to change them both to vers II?

Greetings,

Felipe