THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

[img][img]http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w205 ... ics010.jpg[/img][/img] [img][img]http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w205 ... ics013.jpg[/img][/img] [img][img]http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w205 ... ics012.jpg[/img][/img] [img][img]http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w205 ... ics017.jpg[/img][/img] [img][img]http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w205 ... ics015.jpg[/img][/img] [img][img]http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w205 ... ics014.jpg[/img][/img] These are photo's after twenty miles of in town driving. How hot should cylinder four get? also the t case read 140 deg f that seems hi to me.

Very cool! or very hot!

Just curious why you are worrying about this? All of these temps are pretty low. 140 degrees for the t-case seems fine to me.

funny thing is the temps fall right where my oil temp guage says the engine is running.
Around here the tcase can get to 140 just setting in the summer sun

I don't no if I'm going crazy, but I swear I can here the fork touch the gear in the transmission, when shifting, thru all five gears. I don't remember hearing it before ever. The pinz has been driving a little different the last week or so. The resonance is a littler higher. Not by much but it is a little different from what I'm used to. I'm just trying to rule things out. Mike, what is the highest your oil gauge has read, or what should not be exceeded?

Erik
On a Phoenix afternoon, driving west on the freeway (60mph) in the summer time I have seen the oil gauge go to 230. As soon as I leave the freeway it returns to 215 in town regardless of the time of year.

Good idea to look the truck over very close when it is not the same as usual. Have you looked at the motor/tranny mounts? There was a "fix" for worn tranny mounts posted at one time, don't recall where I saw it. The alignment stub in the mount for the transmission can touch the bracket causing more vibration than normal. The backyard fix was to put some heater hose over the stub to keep the metal on metal contact from happening. Of course the real repair is to just change the mount. Some of the engine mounts that we have seen fail had to have the engine lifted slightly to detect it. Once the mounts are replaced all is good again.
Just one more thing to look at while searching for the source. Keep looking till you find it.

Hi Erik,

Do I read correctly the first (top left) picture, with the hottest part being the connection between the exhaust manifold and the heat exchanger, at 463°F (according to the color code / temperature range at the bottom)?

I want to extend the life of my rather rusty heat exchanger with some POR-15, and the "regular" rust-preventive POR-15 is guaranteed up to 600°F. So based on your thermal scan, I would not need to use the "high-temperature" POR-15...

Any other opinions out there?
Thanks in advance,

Jan

Jan, the hottest temp was bellow 500deg. But you paint it, the paint is going to act like an insulator and the temp is going to rise. Not sure I would paint the exhaust on an air cooled motor.

Paint away. Erik, wouldn't you want the heat exchanger to hold more heat? I don't think paint has much in the way of insulating properties...

experiments we did on a cast/machined aluminum cruise missile power supply housing (misslies have major airflow available) showed all paint we tested insulated, destroying the heat sinking ability of the housing. black anodizing actually helped sink heat significantly. so some things got paint or powder coat and others got black anodizing.

i would think you'd want to insulate the hell out of that heat exchanger.

Thanks all for your input / advice!

Jan