THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

Looking for Hub Steps for my soon to be adopted 712AMB-S. Are there any recommended sources. I am looking for quality units, preferably powder coated.

All suggestions accepted.

Thanks

Randy,
I got mine with the truck, from CWR. Not sure if they're powder coated, although I'd be his site would detail. But they've held up well for over 8 years now. I'm happy with them.
Paul

A four inch floor flange from Home Depot will work and you can add or remove the pipe and cap when ever you want.

I've bought 2 sets from Thilo Kass and am very pleased with them. Not inexpensive, but excellent quality and powdercoated.

www.mogsrus.com

Paul

Thilo's parts are quality and are to be recommended.

An alternative are Scott's (E.I.) platform steps. I have them and for me it was one of the little things that keeps my wife happy.

The larger footprint makes a more secure foothold.

http://www.expedition-imports.com/produ ... Steps.html

(added link)

If you want to shoot the gambit on all the different front steps, there are 4 different ones that have been made for 710/12 Pinzes.
1) The hub or pipe step ( through the pilot hole of the rim). I'm not too fond of them for off road in rocks and boulders.
2) The TD type hoop step that's mounted to the body in front of the wheel. They affect the angle of approach a little ( I've hit mine a few times )
3) The removeable step that Scott sell ( I have a set to replace my hoops when they get destroyed )
4) And the hub ring ( a la Mog 404 and LR101s). I am not sure if anyone is making these any more.

Each individual is different to what works best for them. The hoops/ removeable steps work best when a pull handle is mounted on the windshield frame ( iirc, there are dimples on the frame where he screws are to be mounted, they're on the TD frames). They're the same pulls that are mounted on the 710/12 doors. With them up on the frame, they're at an angle that helps lift yourself in ( other than using the steering wheel or the passenger's grab bar)

Re: Dave's #1. I've always wondered if the tire-centered hub step would hit things. It's never been an issue for me. But then again, I'm not driving around boulders that often in Wisconsin.

I've always wanted to make a pair like the ones I saw on our local road grader. There was a mount which attached to the body. Then two pieces of cable dropped down an appropriate length (on the grader, maybe 8") and they went through loops in the ends of a bar which was the step. Apparently, the step just collapsed when it hit something (it had), so it would seem like it wouldn't be an issue with approach angle. It always seemed like it would be an easier step up than the wheel steps.

delete

I'd look at the one Scott sells. One thing to keep in mind about the wheel hub step is if you're in leather soled shoes and slip you'll bust your shin.

I had hub steps that I bought on ebay for about a week. And shortly gave them to another pinz owner.

I've made the hub steps made from floor flange and pipe nipple and have had them for years. Made them for about $8 in parts from Home Depot. Put non skid on them and drilled a hole through the end and use a phillips screwdriver to spin them off if I am going to be in rocks.

http://s400.photobucket.com/albums/pp88 ... MG3362.jpg

I know everyone is all in a tizzy about spending upwards of $125 for parts for their pinz but these have done well for me for years.

I'm an advocate for the hub steps. I've uised both the CWR and Thilo models and perfer Thilo's. My 712 had the bolt on "fixed" steps (attached below and slightly ahead of the door) and they seems difficult to actually use in my opinion.

Good comment on proper footwear and these items...if they're slick, you'l know about it pretty quick!

krick3tt wrote:I've made the hub steps made from floor flange and pipe nipple and have had them for years. Made them for about $8 in parts from Home Depot. Put non skid on them and drilled a hole through the end and use a phillips screwdriver to spin them off if I am going to be in rocks.

Thanks for the tips in making these hub steps Morris! I installed them today....after I discovered the lining issue on my rear brake.

They make getting my big arse into the truck much easier. They cost me $24 to make. It was more $$ because I had to buy two 6" nipples rather than one 8" (all they had). Like you advised, I drilled the hole so that I can unscrew them if in a tight spot.




Thanks again!

I made some similar hubsteps, but be certain that the flange does not hold the rim from the hub. Proper hub steps should be loose between the hub and wheel until a piece of rubber or similar material is put behind the pipe flange to stop it from rattling.

I had to turn the pipe flanges thinner on a lathe to make sure the wheel bolted up to the hub properly, else you run the risk of cracking the wheel center or other ugly stuff with the hub.

Jimm391730 wrote:I made some similar hubsteps, but be certain that the flange does not hold the rim from the hub. Proper hub steps should be loose between the hub and wheel until a piece of rubber or similar material is put behind the pipe flange to stop it from rattling.

I had to turn the pipe flanges thinner on a lathe to make sure the wheel bolted up to the hub properly, else you run the risk of cracking the wheel center or other ugly stuff with the hub.

Thanks for the tip. Mine do not spin or are they loose, so I will look at them a little closer. I cannot drive until I get my lining fixed.

I could not find an entry step I was happy with so I made my own. the idea of having one that stuck out there for every rock to grab did not impress me. the removeable hoops are only good if you remember to remove them, saw too many of those destroyed on the trails. the way I solved it you can not forget to remove the step and it definitely does not get hung up on rocks.