Driving home yesterday from work - mid 80's, freeway speeds and I noticed my temp was on the high side of 230! I have never seed it go that high. Whats the deal?
I just completed an oil change using the recomended Valvoline 20/50 and all levels are good. Other than making sure the air tunnel is unblocked and the oil cooler fins are clear of debree, what PM can be done for high tempratures. I do have my winch on the bumper woundering if the air flow is an issue, but all last summer even in 100+ degree weather it didn't get that high...And I know a lot of people run a winch on the bumper with no issues.....Any thoughts?
Lets Talk Oil/Air Temp
Moderator: TechMOGogy
Lets Talk Oil/Air Temp
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On a hard push especially on a hill I have seen 215. I run a winch in ft,but i fail to believe that is an issue . My sender is located in the pan. BTW ,there is still a long ways until the possibility of oil break down. If I am wrong then we both have issues! 
Mark
Mark
Stock means no imagination!
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68 Haffy
Volvo TGB1317, .95% Morphed!
68 Haffy
I notice that the engine oil temp will reach 230 deg in the summer when donig freeway speeds on my 712 Pinz. The sender is located at the oil cooler. I don't have anything blocking the air tunnel and don't notice any more oil consumption or engine noise with the higher oil temps in the summer. I do keep the oil changed every 5K kilometers and have not noticed any oil related issues.
Mike
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lindenengineering
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Hey Guys.
I am puzzled by the postings on this thread.
What do you expect the oil temp to be?
Also if you have a family "grocery getter" what temp do you expect the oil in the pan to be givingh it "some wellie" bearing in mind that you have a coolant temop guage in front of you?
For those of you running diesel engines like in big rigs what do you think the oil in the pan should be?
Answers please and I will elaborate some more!
Dennis
lindenengineering.com
I am puzzled by the postings on this thread.
What do you expect the oil temp to be?
Also if you have a family "grocery getter" what temp do you expect the oil in the pan to be givingh it "some wellie" bearing in mind that you have a coolant temop guage in front of you?
For those of you running diesel engines like in big rigs what do you think the oil in the pan should be?
Answers please and I will elaborate some more!
Dennis
lindenengineering.com
OOOps no customer bashing now
I put the gauge in to see what the temps were. I had no expectations of what the temps would be just that they might be consistant. I know that the oil temp gauge will not save the engine but if attention is paid to the readings it could help with early signs of problems. The cylinder temp gauges would be more effecient and more elaborate to install and maintain. All I was hoping for was some indication of what the engine was doing and have been satisfied with the readings. Now I have only to glance at the gauge in known circumstances to know if things are normal. At least the gauge is not like the ones in new cars/trucks where they only read normal and way to late to do any good.
Mike
temperature
Regular oil is fine to 300 degrees, synthetic to 450 or so. Who cares about 230? Water starts to boil out at 212 so you want it at least that hot if possible. Remember everyone who bitches about the condensation under that oil cap? A thinner oil would most likely run cooler but it doesn't make a bit of difference to me.
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lindenengineering
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Well you folks, I was hoping for a lively response on the question. It was so quiet it reminded me of being a tech instructor at the factory where I worked and getting few replies from the blokes in front of me!
I think you must all know that engines (forget Pinzgauers for a moment) are liquid cooled and have a thermostat to regulate overall engine temperature to about 85dgC. The radiator/header tank also has a pressure cap to raise the boil margin by something like 9dgC. In recent years there has been a trend to push up the operating temp to improve combustion and with it goes the oil temp. Really I should say bulk oil temp and bulk coolant temp to be specific, as these two liquids in an engine are in the process of absorbing heat from combustion until they stabilise. (That's providing they are designed correctly!) A stabilised temp is essential to ensure the engine doesn't suffer from thermal stresses for the mostpart. The design of the engine and cooling system must have properties to reject heat to the atmosphere thereby allowing the unit to stabilise.
When engine testing either on a Heenan & Fraude Brake or makeshift on the highway with a load on its back the liquids and heat rejection are measured with scientific instruments to read the rise of the liquids to stabilisation. From "cold" interestingly, the usual is to see the oil temp rise progressively to about 25dgC and the coolant temp rise very sluggishly behind it. then there is a "droop" in the oil temp rise as the coolant liquid often "sucks the heat" from the block and/or oil cooler if fitted. This droop forms a distinct plateau on graph paper. The coolant then rises to its max and shows stabilization if the engine design is good. From that point the oil continues to rise well past the boiling point of water or thermostat opening temps due to the simple fact that it is in direct contact with those components that are in turn directly in contact with combustion processes. Again if the design is good the oil temp will level off about 25 to 30% above the coolant levels. So a reported temp stabilized at 230DGF would be about right!
Obviously big diesel engines with underpiston cooling and massive intercoolers just help in maintaining those stabilised bulk temps.
The Pinz aircooled engine is a bit of a bastard child since it runs on full cool and in many cases never reaches stabilised temperatures unless its used aggressively. Those clever Steyr people designed it that way for max reliability but it gives lousy fuel economy. I suspect the 230 figure is a result of the engine attaining stabized temperatures other comparisons are just that comparisons given a differing set of operating conditions.
Dennis
I think you must all know that engines (forget Pinzgauers for a moment) are liquid cooled and have a thermostat to regulate overall engine temperature to about 85dgC. The radiator/header tank also has a pressure cap to raise the boil margin by something like 9dgC. In recent years there has been a trend to push up the operating temp to improve combustion and with it goes the oil temp. Really I should say bulk oil temp and bulk coolant temp to be specific, as these two liquids in an engine are in the process of absorbing heat from combustion until they stabilise. (That's providing they are designed correctly!) A stabilised temp is essential to ensure the engine doesn't suffer from thermal stresses for the mostpart. The design of the engine and cooling system must have properties to reject heat to the atmosphere thereby allowing the unit to stabilise.
When engine testing either on a Heenan & Fraude Brake or makeshift on the highway with a load on its back the liquids and heat rejection are measured with scientific instruments to read the rise of the liquids to stabilisation. From "cold" interestingly, the usual is to see the oil temp rise progressively to about 25dgC and the coolant temp rise very sluggishly behind it. then there is a "droop" in the oil temp rise as the coolant liquid often "sucks the heat" from the block and/or oil cooler if fitted. This droop forms a distinct plateau on graph paper. The coolant then rises to its max and shows stabilization if the engine design is good. From that point the oil continues to rise well past the boiling point of water or thermostat opening temps due to the simple fact that it is in direct contact with those components that are in turn directly in contact with combustion processes. Again if the design is good the oil temp will level off about 25 to 30% above the coolant levels. So a reported temp stabilized at 230DGF would be about right!
Obviously big diesel engines with underpiston cooling and massive intercoolers just help in maintaining those stabilised bulk temps.
The Pinz aircooled engine is a bit of a bastard child since it runs on full cool and in many cases never reaches stabilised temperatures unless its used aggressively. Those clever Steyr people designed it that way for max reliability but it gives lousy fuel economy. I suspect the 230 figure is a result of the engine attaining stabized temperatures other comparisons are just that comparisons given a differing set of operating conditions.
Dennis
OOOps no customer bashing now
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MASSIVE PINZ
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I have made a make shift thermostat flap from a hodgepodge of VW and Porsche components to help get my head and oil temps elevated to the point that I have found most optimum for similar aircooled engines..
The result was breaking the 20 MPG mark with my FI system
Before I did this my oil would not get over 190F and the heads would not peak past 275 on most days, even when loaded. Now my oil temps run 220F and the heads between 325 and 340 most of the time. With these mods the engine runs more stable, less rich and has much better throttle response, especially when the humidity is high in the mornings here.
Of course the Pinz purists crucify me for doing such a dastardly thing, but they don't buy my gas so I really don't care!
The result was breaking the 20 MPG mark with my FI system
Before I did this my oil would not get over 190F and the heads would not peak past 275 on most days, even when loaded. Now my oil temps run 220F and the heads between 325 and 340 most of the time. With these mods the engine runs more stable, less rich and has much better throttle response, especially when the humidity is high in the mornings here.
Of course the Pinz purists crucify me for doing such a dastardly thing, but they don't buy my gas so I really don't care!
Thanks for the information. That description is very helpful. The only thing different I did from the oil change than before when the temp went higher is use a MANN oil filter rather than the NAPA one. Dosen't seem like that wold have any thing to do with the increase in temp though.
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