LED Bulb replacements -- Turn, Break, Running

[rmel]

Just replaced all my signal lights with LED replacements into the stock Pinz housings. As expected very bright.

The Turn signal, single filament Narva P21W 17643 with BA15S base can be replaced with:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EKK ... ge_o03_s00

The Brake/Running, dual filament Narva P21/5W 17925 with BAY15d base can be replaced with:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015AC ... ge_o00_s00

One word of caution, these particular LED bulbs are built with 6 x 3 LED blades organized in a cylinder, overall assembly is fragile.
I crushed one in my hand while trying to twist in place on a tight socket. Clean the socket and give it a small dose of dielectric grease.

Just looking at Amazon in the past day there are more options, some expensive but a more robust construction and RED CREE LED's for brakes.
http://www.amazon.com/Power-BAY15D-Truc ... bay15d+led

[VinceAtReal4x4s]

I would have thought you'd get the color of the LED and lens to match. With white, you're "wasting" a lot of its overall output since the colored filter is only allowing that part of the spectrum through. Maybe it doesn't matter too much in this case but it'd be interesting to see a comparison.

And just to add, the company on Amazon called JDM ASTAR supposedly make the best replacement LEDs but I don't know if their stuff is 24v compatible or not.

[rmel]

These days White high LUMEN (e.g. 300 lumens/Watt) LED's are the most common, highest volume, and that makes them the lowest cost.
White light is produced from one Blue LED source that is coated with Yellow Phosphor. The mixing of Blue + Yellow = White, very efficient.

In the early days it took 3 LED's to get White light or a complex combo of filters, or phosphors. Blue and near-UV LED was a game changer
for the lighting industry.

So now RED and other base color LED's are more "specialty", like traffic lights, and are just more expensive, tuned for a different application.
The companies producing these replacement "lamps" or even OEM LED based housings, are going to go with the lowest cost parts that meet
the requirements and that's White LED for the most part. This explains why 99% of the LED array's you can see have that yellow over-coating.

[rmel]

Oh! I forgot to add. There are 12V only replacement LED's as well as wide input voltage ones 10V-30V.
The latter takes a bit more searching to find, and are more expensive.

The wide input voltage ones have a buck converter built inside them that converts the wide input voltage to a
controlled current drive for the LED's. These converters, like the CL6807 operate in the Megahertz range so
the parts is tiny. LED's that operate at one specific voltage may only have a resistor to limit the drive current so
their brightness will vary with voltage. Whether the application is 12V only or not, your better off using a LED
that is designed for a wide input range with a built in converter, more efficient dissipating less power.

[TechMOGogy]

Did you care/does it matter that the turns were 'warm white' and the running were 'cool'?

[rmel]

In my case I am using the original fixtures with standard plastic diffusers in Red, and Amber.
The source being a White LED is broader spectrum than a tungsten filament bulb but passing
through a Red or Amber diffuser is somewhat of a moot point. For back up with a Clear diffuser
then the LED would not be as "warm" as a standard bulb. In all cases your putting out more
lumens so it's a whale of a lot brighter, lower power -- all good things.

[TechMOGogy]

Ok so colour basically doesn't matter. Just wanted to check if that should be a concern or not
Thx

[bikmakr]

Just a warning. I replaced all my dash lights, turn signals, rear lights and headlights with LED's. Apparently they draw so much less current that the Pinz system doesn't know what to do. Turn signals need an LED blinker module to flash properly. Energy bleeds over from other systems like my locker lights flash when I activate the headlights, etc. My parking brake light illuminates slightly all the time.
Just funny stuff that can drive you nuts to diagnose. And yes, I tried shunting some circuits with resisters, still no luck.

[rmel]

Funny, I was just typing a word of caution I forgot to mention.
You will likely need to change the flasher, I had changed mine to
the new style that SAV offers and it works just fine. The older
stock flashers rely on the bulb current to heat a bi-metal switch
to cause the flashing, LED current may be insufficient to activate the switch.
The newer one may or may not be Solid State which would be independent
of bulb current, but that unit does work just fine at 2 flashes/second.
Very easy to change out.

[rmel]

The flasher I used was a SANEL SSF297 (24V). I can't find anything that says explicitly
this is a Solid State flasher. I can say that the flash rate was the same for a turn signal
or in the Hazard position -- which should be at a faster rate with all bulbs firing for a bi-metal
flasher. This could be a Solid state flasher. Not sure if SAV is selling exactly this SANEL
these days or not.