Need advice on tool issue

[VinceAtReal4x4s]

I need to press in these bearings on occasion. A normal hyd. press is kinda hard to use on this one. The other side of the casing is just to the right of the pic frame so the clearance isn't much. The casing is a aluminum so heat may help get it in there too.

I was thinking of something that operated somewhat like a C-clamp but is stronger. I did try a heavy C-clamp but I couldnt crank down enough on the little handle to really apply much force, plus it gets a little unstable as you do that. Any ideas on if there's a such thing as a mini-press C-clamp sorta thing out there?

[m15256]

Since you can see light coming through the bearing from the back there must be open space on the far left side. Instead of pressing it through from the side we see, can you pull it in by running a bolt/spacer/bearing plate/nut etc combination through the center of the bearing?
Hard to tell without pictures from different angles.

[VinceAtReal4x4s]

No it has a cap on the other side. I guess the light effect is an illusion from the polished roller bearings

[mm58]

Can you tap it in with a block of wood and hammer?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[VinceAtReal4x4s]

I'd have to hit the wood block in the middle, with the longer end sticking into the case so the leverage and control wouldn't be so good. I'm also worried about deforming the bearing which isn't too stout to begin with, plus they are $25 each and a week away to order in so trying hard not to ruin it. I figured a press/clamp would offer the most control over it.

[Heinkeljb]

Make a suitable tool.

You could alter a suitable G clamp. Cut the wobbly end of if it doesn't work for you with it on. Get a plate of a suitable size welded on instead. Cut the wingnut off and get a suitable sized nut welded on instead. You can then use a socket or a spanner to turn the screw thread giving you all the power you need.

If you cant get a G clamp in behind because of the curve on the clamp, you can always make a clamp using threaded bar and some suitable nuts welded together to form the correct size and shape.

Is there anything on the right that you could push against? If there is, you could purchase a tool that is originally designed to push the pistons in wheel cylinders back in on disc brake hubs.

john

[Joeri]

Well....just put the new bearing a night in the freezer , then before putting it in heat up the alu pice with a gasburner or heatgun.

[one2many]

Would a "ball joint press" work? They are fairly stout little tools. They also come with some attachments that might help.

IMG_0598.PNG (497.75 KiB) Viewed 284 times

IMG_0597.PNG (354.99 KiB) Viewed 284 times

[VinceAtReal4x4s]

Thanks that's the type of thing I need but the reach isnt quite enough (guessing)

Im going to give the heat freeze thing a try with the Cclamp tomr.

[one2many]

IMG_0599.PNG (610.69 KiB) Viewed 253 times

[at

[VinceAtReal4x4s]

Thanks but the bearing is capped on the other end, those wont work.

[VinceAtReal4x4s]

I got it with the old C-clamp! I used the heat trick on the casing to help it out, plus some grease.