Timing Question...

[Porksgauer]

When timing the distributor...logic would dictate that you want to view the pointer to pulley mark from the passenger side as that is where the distributor is located. Though line of sight with respect to the pointer is quite odd when viewed from the passenger side. You need a third reference point to confirm you are setting timing correctly. Typically that would be the crank centerline. But that is not the case here. So it would seem that timing can vary based on who is timing it as POV is not really consistent.

So are we to look at the marks from the passenger side or drivers side?

[rmel]

You want to minimize parallex by viewing the pointer to mark right through the center of the pulley.
The most convenient place to do that is on the passenger side and gives ready access to the distributor
to rotate.

Are you running any aftermarket Solid-state-ignition or stock setup?

[Porksgauer]

Yep...that's how I have always done timing. Also given the distance between the pointer and pulley OD...parallax is even more sensitive to who's looking at it without a 3rd reference point. As it currently stands you would have to be looking from the drivers side almost straight on top of the engine, kind of an awkward POV. So that why I am asking on here. I just bought this and going through it thoroughly to get it running really good. Few quarks..for one the distributor is STUCK...so I will need to work on that. And yes the clamp to block bolt has been removed and even the clamping bolt is removed. So it should come right out, but lucky me nope.

Currently it's stock distributor with a civilian kit installed. I was planning on putting a pinzziSSI, but he shut down recently. So I will either rebuild this distributor thoroughly or go with an MSD VW distributor. But in both cases I will put an MSD ignition box in.

[Stumbler]

I had a novel approach that has been working for years.

I got on Amazon and bought a "digital"-analog timing light. It has an adjustment to retard or accelerate the flash with a digital readout, so you put it at 8 or 10 and all you have to do it match up the marks exactly on top of each other. It was easy to experiment with different settings exactly. It was only about $40, but that was a while ago. The nice thing is that as time goes on you can decide if your truck runs better at exactly 8 btdc, or 9 btdc, 10, etc. it's all relative because some trucks just might be quirky and run better 1 or 2 degree + or - what another one does.

just my two cents. (or $40)